Search results

The skimmer won't even WORK. The FW will not produce the necessary bubbles a skimmer needs to work. The person who told you this needs to do a LOT more research.

A very temporary solution is to put a hose clamp around the tubing coming from tank to pump and tighten it in the manner you'd use a ball valve. Until you can get out and buy a ball valve.

Just the opposite. If you're on a tight budget you'll end up wasting money and spending more because the bulbs are absolutely horrible. They cast an ugly, greenish light. They burn out REALLY quick, To replace the bulbs it'll cost you 21 dollars per bulb. The ballast WILL burn out and...

Neither, they're both junk. The bulbs suck, the ballasts suck, the fixtures suck.

The ballasts in the photos are the piece of JUNK Odysea ballasts. They're complete junk, always burn out. The ballasts are the most important part. Sockets & bulbs are the least expensive part.

You don't have to be away. It would be worse if you're standing or sitting right in front of it when it bursts.

Have kept Bettas for 25 years. Never heated the water. Never sluggish, in fact have spawned. Opposite is true. Too warm = sluggish and diseases.

A Betta does not require a heater. Room temp is fine. A heater won't make him any happier. I keep a 5 gal tank with 5 Guppies and they love it. Guppies are cool for small tanks because they reproduce and you can keep the prettiest ones and give the others away.

I wouldn't use it, especially on the 44th floor. I'd be worried everytime I left for work, but I'm a worrier.

Get a life and UNTIL you're a moderator mind your own business.

We're the only ones talking for 4 pages so you "could" choose to mind your own business.

You've got to change the carbon, run a lot of it, and change it every day or so for a week. That is what will remove the toxin, "if he is dead". He could be hiding in the sandbed, they do that. Mine got chopped up by a powerhead. Little pieces fell on my corals and damaged them. There is...

If you can't find the sea hare better do a 50% water change and run some carbon quickly. If he's dead in there he is poisoning your water. Just finding him isn't enough now. Water change and carbon necessary. Hope the salinity drop was gradual. 5ppm is a lot to do all at once. Either your...

Adding more water will just overflow your aquarium. Your problem is with your overflow. You need more flow from the tank to the sump to balance things out properly. If the pump is rated at only 660 gph and you have to throttle it down then with head pressure you're not even getting 400 gph...

I don't acclimate my corals. I simply give them a 10 minute bath in tank water treated with a coral dip such as coral rx and a couple drops of flatworm exit. Then right into the ol tank. I have NEVER acclimated a fish either. I float the bag for 20 minutes and in they go. Way too much is made...

My absolute favorite is Goniopora! It comes in all kinds of great colors. It looks like nithing but a thin mat encrusted on a rock or a solid little ball when it's polyps are closed but it gets huge and has a lot of movement when open. I have 5 of these in various colors in my tank. Check out...

The discussion of T5 versus Halides has been going on forever. The opinion as to which is better goes back and forth and endless. Right now there's LED thrown in the discussion but most agree that the rpice and the technology has a long way to go. Price down and technology up. I would venture...

I built a canopy, not lights. Retrofit metal halides require you to screw them into your canopy and plug them in. We can all plug a cord into an outlet, can't we? The halide kits come with a reflector, pre-wired socket and a ballast. Just plugs. Only thing missing is a fancy aluminum housing...

In the past month I researched extensively lighting as I was looking into led, T5 and halides. I wanted to make sure I was most efficent with the three halides I was running. Metal Halides have to be done right to be cost efficent. First, you can't rush rush out and buy and expensive metal...

Go to BRS Bulk Reef Supply.com. You have to use a media reactor for the pellets and a pump. BRS is a great place to get a lot of reef supplies. Know the BEST thing to keep nitrates in check? 20% water change every week. Thats the key. Took me a long time to get over my laziness but now I...

Just because T5 is all the latest rage people are bashing metal halides. It's a crock. With halides you can have ANY thing in your tank you want. If run properly they don't heat your water that significantly. In the Winter when tank temps are cold you don't need a heater. So you don;t use the...

Heck yeah move it. I wouldn't even own a Galexea. They're deady.

Nice. You would be so much better off removing the canister filter and buying a 10 gallon tank. You could put live rock, mangroves, miracle mud, chaeto algae and even a small skimmer in it. You light it with a CFL 23 watt light bulb. Keep it lighted when your tank lights are out. It's...

If your inert rock has been in the tank for months it may be live rock now. Here's what I would do. Each time I went to LFS I'd buy a small piece of live rock. Don't get a crummy piece, get one with coralaline algae and lots of life. Don't let them lie to you and say it's cured when it isn't...

Take the ceramic things out of the canister filter. They're nitrate traps. If you have plenty oflive rock, that's enough. Take em out slowly, a little every week. Your salt "should" buffer your water right to around 8.2. If it's not, I use Sea Chem Marine Buffer and Reef Builder. Use as...