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Non fish related pics

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tds going in is 500+ (varies from about 520 to 570) - last reading was 560 tds after the 3 stage prefilter was 551 tds after the RO membrane was 42 tds after the DI membrane was 2

find a brick or piece of slate and epoxy the heater to it, then it wont go sinking in the sand, and if it does, well, no harm anway alternaly, you can build some substrate heating cables which will be custom to your tanks dimenisons http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Tech/Resler-Cables/

hmm maybe that's why my mollies have stopped spawning water here according to my TDS meter has 2x as much junk as it does at my folks across town soon as the water guy gets back from vacation, I'm gonna start asking him WTF is in my water that reverse osmosis cannot remove

use a 2 part epoxy for the best hold if you want to experiment with positioning first, use some silicone, then you can scrape it off and start over use a drywall knife or one of those big box cutters, something that will let you get a good score into the plastic

cut the eggcrate by scoring a deep line and then snaping it all plastic will yellow exposed to the radiation put off that close to an MH bulb - go for glass and clean it regularly 1/11th of an inch? never heard of that - perhaps 1/8th but that would not be good enough for a stong baffle -...

how many gallons we talkin? they make nano heaters that work for 3 to 5 gallons

updated diagram things changed: 1) reduced wattage of MH from 400 to 250 2) moved the t5's around a bit to make room for 2 more tubes as a low expense upgrade path 3) changed color temp of MH and T5 bulbs, so they'll be about the same, nice a blue :)

8" sounds great for the MH get the PC's as close as you can, since they don't penerate very well and they're not very hot, so a little splash shouldn't hurt

well, as you may or may not know, petsmart has imposed an "odd size" fee to shipping big buckets of salt ... to the tune of $16 but they've brought back FREESHIP so, 200 gal worth of salt (some 60 lbs) ships for just over $50

well, mh and wood can get along as long as you observe a few things. the envelope of the bulb is 500 degrees, but that heat is pretty much trapped there - the air around the bulb keeps it well insulated - what you end up with is about 150 degrees of radiant heat, most of which bounces off your...

weld on #16 will work fine, but you must apply it correctly using a natural hair fine point paint brush (look at arts and crafts store for the smallest cheapest natural hair brush), you must apply a thin layer of #16 to each side of a joint and then quickly clamp the pieces together if you...

after the inital investment, it's cheap too ;) Solatube I think is one brand, that has a parabolic lense and mirror system to gather in light and bring it straight down only problem I guess would be, cloudy days also if you rely on sunlight completely, you would not have water depth...

probably dead bacteria and skin cells that were in the air and settled out also could be from the unit itself desinegerating - exposure to intense short-wave radiation is hard on just about everything involved, including the glass sleeve and the internal plumbing

outer envelope of a metal halide bulb reaches about 500 degrees F ... it shouldn't be resting on anything or have anything withing 2" of it also, if your tank is 4ft across, you'll have a bright area surrounded by shadow without using 2 MH bulbs.

lookin good!

Ace 'shoud' have it, as Plastokite Adhesive... but failing that www.craftics.com

well, it really depends how close you plan on having your lights close to the water. unless you've got a lot of fish splashing and thrashing around at the water's surface, the tiny amount that sprays up from normal turbulance shouldn't cause any distress to halide or fluorescent bulbs.

the electronic ballasts for the fluorescents will be mounted up high under the stand, just screwed into the wood. the magnetic ballasts for the halides will be installed in a steel toolbox or similar steel enclosure and sat behind the stand or next to it (ive got about 18" dead space on either...