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TDS = Total Dissolved Solids. As is... a TDS Meter. TDS Meters read in parts per million = ppm. You'll use a TDS Meter to monitor how well your RO membrane is working, and how well your DI (Deionization) resin is working when you get an RODI system. Russ

Ah-ha. Most of our freshwater customers don't use straight RODI water, Rather they use a mix of RODI and dechlorinated tap water. Your RODI will produce dechlorinated tap if you take water out of the system right after the carbon prefilter(s) but before the membrane. Some of the keepers of...

Not sure what you mean. Buy an RODI and start making water.

We are admittedly a bit biased, but here's some things most people would find less than desirable: Unless you have chloramines in your water, why do you want a system with two carbon stages? This system has a horizontal DI - a fundamental design mistake. The ebay listing says 18 oz of resin will...

I think you might be confusing "RO membranes" and "DI resin cartridges." RO membranes are almost always horizontal in residential scale systems - their orientation isn't as critical and can be addressed by how the tubing is routed. That other vendor you mention doesn't sell any systems with...

You'd get better performance from your DI stages if you: 1. Packed each as tightly as possible - avoid any air gaps/voids. If the resin bed fluidizes you didn't pack it tightly enough 2. Remove those DI stages from their clips and orient them vertically with bottom-up flow through each...

Let's back up a little. Think of your sediment filter and carbon block as a team. The sediment filter removes sediment before it reaches the carbon block, so that the carbon block doesn't clog with sediment. To make sure this happens you need to get filters with the correct pore size. You...

A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the...

Nice. This is similar to how I have my reef set up at home. Couple of thoughts for you: 1. Each drum, when full, will weigh about 126 lbs. Be extra careful with how you set up the shelving! 2. As a failsafe, drill a hole in the side of each near the top, screw in a 1/2" fitting, and attach...

You said it. Commercial posts are against the rules! Almost 15 years of experience configuring RODI and RO systems for the aquaculture trade has provided lots of opportunities to try various things and learn what works and what doesn't. There are sooo many systems out there that are...

We generally recommend against this approach.

I changed some of what you listed below. Build Your Own RO System Stage One 1 Micron Sediment Filter Stage Two 0.5 Micron Carbon Block Stage Three No need for a second carbon block unless you have chloramines in your water. So a 4 stage system is a better bet for nearly everyone. Stage...

If you haven't made your purchase yet, we'll recommend you don't get the ebay system. You can do much better. You want better prefilters than that system comes with. No need for two carbon blocks unless you have chloramines in your water. You probably don't. Email us if you need help...

High pressure (within the range that you'd get from any residential faucet) will not harm the membrane at all. The weak link in the chain in terms of being able to withstand pressure is your clear housings. You should have a pressure gauge on your system! Russ

Bleach, or sodium hypochrite is an effective anti-bacterial. So if that is your primary concern, then a dilute bleach solution will work well. Russ

Here are some things to look for in a good system for this hobby: No more than 4 stages (sediment, carbon, RO, DI) unless you have specific water quality issues you want to address Standard-sized prefilters, membrane, and DI cartridge Brand name, high-rejection membrane (96%+) Specifications...

No mention of automatic temperature compensation, so not a meter we would recommend for use with DI water. Russ

Conductivity meters read in micrisiemens. TDS meters read in part per million, or PPM. Meaning for every million parts of water, you have 18 parts of dissolved solids. That is exceptionally low (meaning VERY good). Average for the US is probably around 250 ppm, and we have customers over 1200...

Yes. What you have is a membrane that will yield 45 gpd at 60 psi and 75 gpd at 100 psi - so in more "normal" terms, you have a 45 gpd membrane. A Filmtec 75 will fit in the same housing. You should also install a 75 gpd flow restrictor when you switch the membrane. BTW - where your...

To measure your waste water to purified water ratio, first line up about 8 identical cups/glasses in front of your system. With your waste water tube in one hand and your purified water tube in the other, how many glasses do you fill with waste water in the time it takes you to fill up one...

There is nothing wrong with adding an additional membrane if you need water faster - as long as you use the correct flow restrictor to yield a ~4:1. Figure out how much water your system makes in a given period of time (like 15 minutes), multiply that by 4 to get a per hour number, and...

We get this question a lot - I think we need to add this to our FAQ list. First - remember that what folks call "waste water" really would be better thought of as "flush water" in that this water serves the important purpose of internally flushing the surface of the semipermeable membrane to...

In many places that process doesn't meet code because you are putting dechlorinated water back into your potable water. RO and RODI systems are prone to biological growth - so make sure you are adequately and frequently sanitizing your RODI system if you do that.

Fun fact to know and tell: Do you know what's in a water softener? Cation DI resin. It is a special type of resin that captures hardness (primarily calcium and magnesium) and releases sodium. So in that process it doesn't really lower TDS. Russ