Search results

LiveAquaria says So is it possible that if I let the Vagabond settle in the tank while keeping Kleins separated then reintroduce Kleins they may be fine?

The vagabond is getting picked on and yeah they are identical in size and shape right now even with the band over the eye, but the rest of the colour is different. Considering that the vagabond is supposed to be the semi-aggressive one that's odd but I suppose the klein's just claimed the tank...

One is a Kleins the other is a vagabond. Guy at the LFS said that they should be fine together, but apparently not. I managed to capture both of them so they're both isolated now. I would prefer to keep them both, but if no ideas then I suppose I will have to get rid of one of them. Thanks!

Hello, I have a bit of a predicament and I'm not sure how to proceed. I got 2 butterfly fish to try to help clean up my aiptasia problem. So I quarantined them for a few weeks, no problem in the smaller 18gal tank. Now that they're in the bigger 70gal tank one won't stop picking on the other...

Ok hold the phone here. Keep in mind that a fan doesn't magically reduce temperature in the tank - what it does is cause an increase in evaporation which causes evaporative cooling. Taking a fan and just pointing it at the top of the water will do next to nothing, especially if it's enclosed...

Depends on how new the filter setup is too. Usually when I change my filter I take out about 3 gallons of tank water to rinse everything in, then once cleaned will use another 3 gallons in a bucket and run the filter in there to get it going again (less hassle than getting it primed in the...

Well it's been running for 4 months now, don't know if you consider that fairly new or not. I have noticed since I switched to RO/DI and the dKH has gone down that the daily pH swings are much more now than they were with the high dKH (which makes sense)... So I'm just worried that going down...

Okie! So after using RO/DI water for about 3 weeks (got myself a system installed) I'm down to about 7.5 dKH and pH between 7.75 and 7.9 depending on time of day. So at this point should I be trying to get the KH and pH up at all? If so what is the best method for long-term change? I still...

Let's say that I am 150 pounds and consume 1 pound of chlorinated tap water a day. My fish are 0.1 pounds and live in 900 pounds of water. It's like comparing apples and mufflers. We can grow an immunity to poisons like cyanide over time because the ratio of consumption to body weight is so...

I think Hook was arguing semantically about your use of the word 'right'. The method that you are using has it's disadvantages and problems that we have pointed out, but you have decided that it's 'good enough'. If that's what you mean by 'right' then we're all in agreement :) The point we're...

There are several dangers with filling directly with tap water including overdosing fish with treatment and allowing chlorine to enter the tank at all. Part of the problem to consider is that unless the treatment you are using is ONLY for dechlorination then it may be consumed between the time...

Oh I absolutely agree, and I apologize if I came across that way. That's why I said "if it works for you then don't fix it". However just because a way "works" doesn't mean that there isn't room for improvement if you so desire.

Well hey, if it is working for you then don't fix it... but that doesn't mean that it is the best way to do it. :) To exaggerate my point: Smoking is fun with little short-term effects but it will likely kill you in the long run. Using anything other than cold water from the tap is also...

I think you misunderstood, that's exactly the opposite of what I said :) Any chlorinated water entering the tank is bad, and adding treatment directly to the tank should only be done in emergency situations. IMHO The best and safest method is to put the tap water aside, treat it seperately...

It's not recommended to add treatment directly to the tank because the chlorinated water still enters the tank and some will be consumed by the fish before it can react with the treatment, plus you run the risk of the fish absorbing massive doses of treatment before it can sufficiently dissolve...

Can you be a little more specific? ;)

Yes, that much I understand. From what I was reading though people were saying that it was BAD to reuse equipment. Other than bacterial die-off are there any problems that can occur by doing so?

Ok, so now what about the FW/SW reuse question? Is there any real reason why I can't take a filter that was in use on a FW tank, clean it out, and use it on a SW tank?

Anyone have any idea or thoughts on this?

Ok, I searched and searched, and all I can find is that you can reuse biological filter media until it "can't be used anymore", "is totally blocked/no longer porous" or "is falling apart". Although the last one is pretty obvious, how can I tell with the first two? I have filter media that is 3...

Well since RO/DI is supposed to be pure water, I'm going to do with "no". If your RO/DI filter isn't removing chlorine then it's time to change your filter :P

The problem with carbon, from what I understand, is the pores are too small and it gets clogged and dirty really fast. "Real" filter media has much larger pores and larger media chunks in order to avoid just that. Try taking a bag of carbon out that has been in a filter for a month and rinse...

jcarlilesiu: why would you rinse anything in tap water? why not always use aquarium water? You're doing a PWC anyway...

Actually it's quite the opposite - the whole point of the closed bio-ball system is to remove nitrates by providing a very low oxygen environment. In that environment denitrifying bacteria becomes anerobic and breaks down the nitrate entirely to nitrogen and oxygen. The nitrogen is released...

Well yes, but I don't image that it would take much force with some larger fish swimming around them to dislodge them from the base, and plastic filled with water is denser than plastic filled with air. Just a thought.