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I used these guys, Coast to Coast Custom Aquariums. They are expensive but you get an excellent quality tank.

The inlet section needs to be large enough (width) to fit your hand all the way down inside. I have had snails get in there and the can be hard to get out. To help with the sump being quiet, make sure the water height between the "filter sock shelf" and your skimmer section are close. This...

I have my drain entering my sump below the sump water line. this makes the drain silent. then the water flows over a shelf into a set of filter socks.

You can make the return go through your overflow. It helps hide the pipes from being seen. You just use a bulkhead fitting to tie the return in your overflow to the return nozzles in your tank. I am not aware of any foam like that, my eggcrate is 5/16" thick, so it didn't take much sand to...

On the bottom to protect from falling rock I hide egg crate under my sand. If I'm looking at your image correctly I think that you still need another glass piece on the back. Check out this website Bean Animal for your overflow. With this system you would just need to silicone a "trough"...

You need the overflow wall. Behind the wall will be the holes for your durso standpipes. This overflow wall should be colored black or whatever you decide to help keep algae from growing back there. You can't drill tempered glass is just shatters, so you would need pane glass for the bottom...

Yea, I think it has about 65-75 gallons in it while running.

Hey Tom, My socks are 7"x17" 200 micron, I cut 6 1/2" diameter holes. Cut cardboard to make a template, then transfer that to your plexiglass. Hey Batt, So far so good with the GE 1 holding, I hope it works for years to come !! Thanks, Hugh

Yeah, I didn't think that I was going to be able to repair that 125g, so I thought I would just use a pre-made sump that is smaller.

Another quick tip. Make sure you put the drain all the way to one end of the drop and drain section. I put mine about 2/3 the way and it ended up being under my sump. That is why I had to raise my sump with that framework so that I could get my drain hose under it.

Well it was a mistake, but I got the benefit of getting a wider tank. The drain is just there for my RODI drain. Also it is flush with the floor under there so if there are any spills I can rinse them out. The drain just goes outside the slab, I will eventually make a small drain field in the...

Thanks Ryan! That came to me when we were designing the house. ** The tank is on its own 20A circuit. And the water is straight well water, no softener, hooked to the RO/DI unit. I had my well water tested at the lab I work (shhhh :wink: ) at and I think that I could actually run it straight...

The display is 375g 8' long x 3' wide x 25" tall starphire 3/4" glass custom from Coast to Coast Aquariums.com/ This display is a work in progress because the tank itself broke the bank...

yeah! I don't put in the time that I need to, with an 11 month old toddler, when I get home from work I'd rather play with her before she goes to sleep :)

Hey Smitty, I'll try to answer as best I can :) 1) What size is the sump? I modeled it after the Aqueon proflex design I wanted to be able to change the filter socks while the return pump was still flowing. So I didn't want anything above them. This sump is made from the 125 gallon...

Ahhh... So I'm moved in to the new house. And I have the sump finished, here are some pics.... The white wooden box has 3/4 insulating foam in the bottom to support the brand new bottom glass. The glass company drilled 2 holes for my 2" bulkhead fittings. This is water testing my silicone...

Thanks!

I have a 10 gallon display and a 40 Gallon sump, which I started in October of 2009. I have about 130 pounds of live rock in the sump and a few rocks in the display. I know this sounds funny but I am going to use this all later in the 300 gallon in-wall aquarium at my new house being built right...

do I speak for every 1 ??? PICS!! :cool:

subscribed... Nice tank!

Is this the right silicone to use? GE Silicone 1 MFG Part # : GE012A 12C

Ah-ha! :p Here's how it went... 1) I cut away the silicone as much as possible with razor knife on both inside and outside of the tank bottom. I laid the tank on its side to do this from the inside. 2) The bottom pieces that were small came off easy, I got most of them off when the trim...

Here a shot of the tank before. My brother-in-law and I made that canopy. It had an Icecap 660 hanging on the back. It was painted because we just used scrap wood. I planned on making a better one and staining it to match the stand later. Here is the culprit, he paid for his diggin'...

Here are some pics: Whole tank: Right Side: Left Side: In the bottom of the leftside pic you can see the glass is missing all the way under the trim. I'm going to start working on removing the trim from the bottom.

Hey Super-Duty, I haven't had a chance to take pictures of the broken bottom, but it would be clear why I need to remove the glass. Most of it is gone anyways and there wouldn't be enough to attach to. That would be a neat idea if it worked for my case. Thanks for the idea.