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If this tank is tempered on side walls, does anyone see a problem with plumbing up over the side of the tank and back down using my external pump? Would consist of about 35-40" of plumbing drawing water vertical about 18 inches.

I intend to build a place on either side that I can place filter pads and charcoal if needed but not sure which side to but it on. I want it on the side that overflows from the display tank but should that be the live rock side or the equipment side?

Thanks. I've been to that website and am currently still waiting on a reply. I intend to drill thru the side of the tank rather than the bottom. I have a question for you refugium users. My refugium will have 3 sections. One with live rock, one that is the "refugium" and one section holding...

I need some help finding some info. I am building a refugium out of a Tetra 29G tank and want to drill a hole in it but do not know if the tank is tempered. I have searched the web including the Tetra website and cannot find any info on the tank. Does anyone know if this tank is tempered or...

I will begin doubling the PWC's and it looks like I need more live rock to get to where I want to be. That is a lot of rock in a tank.

This is my filtration. I have a Marineland Tidepool with the single biowheel. Water comes from the tank into the prefilters of the tidepool and first goes thru 2 phospate pad filters along with 2 cloth bags of carbon and one with ammonia removing pellets, then to the biowheel. It then spills...

Also, what are you guys using for filtration? Like I said I have the bio-wheel. Would it be benificial for me to switch to a wet/dry with bio-balls? What kind of set-up should I use. I have always heard that th bio-wheel is a nitrate factory but I don't understand why. If there is ammonia...

Thanks guys, I'll keep an eye on it.

I do not have a lot of salt experience so I do not know what you mean by adding macro in my sump return. What is macro? Am I to remove the biowheel to do this?

It does not appear to be growing , it looks like the rock itself is stained green. Nothing to scrape off. Water is very clear but rocks are green. Some hair algea still in the tank. I do have several areas that a purple color are showing up and I believe that could be scraped off but Im sure...

Also, doing PWC about 10 gallons every 2 weeks and topping off with RO water. RO water tested at 0 nitrates. Salinity is 8.2

How do I add macro algea? Temp is 79f, ammonia 0, nitrites 0, nitrates test for 0-5 in tank, MH lights are on for 8 hours 3x150W, asm g1x skimmer, 100% live sand about 2-3 inches, feeding brime shrimp frozen and algea sheets to tangs once a day. My bio wheel turns at a good pace, would it do...

I have a Marineland Tidepool under my 125 gallon tank. It has a large bio-wheel. Tank has been running for about 4-5 months. I have been battling hair algea for awhile and am starting to get the upper hand. My nitrates read 0 ( I recently installed a nirate remover) but I am afraid it may be...

I have a quick question about my live rock. My tank has been set up for about 4-5 months. Most of my live rock is turning green. My phospates are 0 as well as nitrates. I have a clean-up crew of snails crabs. I had a outbreak of hair algea which is coming to an end and I am wondering if the...

So I guess the HA uses nitrates and phosphates as food and also require light. If I remove all traces of phospates and NO3 will that kill it off? Are there any other trace elements that it uses to grow? Will I have to reduce lighting if all NO3 and phosphates are removed?

The fixture is a current usa. The bulbs/tubes came with it. Are they any good? I had one go bad already.

I did not move them when the light was first installed but did shortly after. I will try feeding them directly and see what happens. Do you guys feed them normally like that? I was told to feed phyto-feast and the directions say to just squirt it into the tank.

I have had the zoas at upper part of tank and lower part with no change. Once again last night the xenia opened up under moonlight then during the day they closed. I am using a screen to sheild the light also. Could I have to much flow? I have 4 powerheads that are about 800 gph. That would...

Im not really sure what they are called, I think VHO 96watts, 2 at 10k and 2 50/50. The xenias are new but the zoes have been in since the last light. I believe the xenias where under mh where I bought them although I'm not sure on the wattage. I have noticed some hair algea on the zoe frags...

Could new 150 W MH lights be to bright for some zoas or even a xenia? Some of mine stay half closed during lighting.

Tree still looks good, as for zoas, one frag is open and ther other remains half closed. My xenia is seems to stay closed during the day and open at night, which doesn't make sense. How long can they survive like that?

I am doing water changes at about 10 gallons every 4-7 days for a 125g. I will try the toothbrush on the siphon hose trick, sounds like a good approach. I have a phosphate filter and nitrates are 5-10ppm. It is not real bad right now but I have heard how it can quickly get out of hand...

Thanks melosu58. I actually have that list saved on my pc. I quess I am just wondering if this algea goes away on its own if the criteria on that list is met or if you have to physically remove it from all the rock or it will grow completely out of control. Will it die out on its own?

Forgot to mention there are plenty of bubbles on the algea right now, gas bubbles I am guessing.

I bought a new light for my 125g tank with MH lights and 50/50 flour. I am now developing a hair algea problem. I have researched the threads and gathered some info. My water parameters are what they should be including nitrates at 10 or less. I am feeding every other day frozen brime shrimp...