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alittle off-topic, but would you happen to have an extra overflow box you would be willing to part with? i am in cleveland, ohio.

forgot to include this link earlier.. it seems an explanation over the principles isn't need anymore. http://www.lsdiodes.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=35e6e589e611b60492cb7650af41cac1 .45cents an led, thats where i load up on mine. there's usually some confusion over the...

i don't have time to get into details, i will later today, but yes having resistors is a very good idea, for various reasons. 1. we live in a world of electronical theory, not law. so having any 'protection' in a circuit is a good idea, and resistors tend to be the cheapest form of it. it...

mike, i can completely understand i am an electronical engineer myself, and hopefully a Computer science degree here shortly. but i am in the same boat as you - love diy and an engineer i love seeing these monster tanks, and all the structural work that put into them, however the one on...

Mike congrats on finding that shark tank guy, i knew someone had posted it on AA but couldn't recall where it came from originally. i got a chuckle out of the concrete conclusion myself, i just swore he used cinderblock for the bulk of the stand.. must have been a different tank. now if you...

standard demensions for a 55 are 48" length, 13inches wide and 18inches tall. i have built a few stands for 55's in the past, and 12.5 does not sound right to me, make sure you're measuring at the widest points, take into account the plastic frame.

someone had posted a walkthrough on how he built a 1200gallon shark tank into his basement on this forum, it was probably over a year ago now, but i am sure if you look you can find it. he used cinderblocks for 3/4 of the tank (using them to build the walls) then just dropped in a plate glass...

i thought i couldn't be the only one who was having problems making anything out in the picture, so i pulled out photoshop and did a little retouching. i really like the border and the base color of the wall.. any idea what color the stand will be?

people have made backdrops, tunnels, rock walls/formations. http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=31078 backdrops http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=56160 - rock formations can't find the thread i want for the DIY caves, the author took a Y pipe (of pvc) cut it in half...

i have had the exact same problem before, i ended up ordering a replacement from my LFS for about 18bucks and using silicon to secure the new one back in place, it took about an hour to remove the old, clean the edges and replace. putting in a glass brace is a good alternative if you don't want...

yeah you can do it, and your idea sounds fine to me. you could use one switch if you wanted to do that (instead of 2) and it wouldn't be any more complex of a wiring job. only thing i would suggest is make sure you place the ballasts away from each other, so it reduces your chances of...

it does a little more (not much) than just offer a better look to the tank, they do offer a small amount of protection, when placing a tank against a hardsurface it acts like a little buffer, but being a little cautious with the tank is usually the best protection. the top frame actually does...

the arrow is pointing to the black bottom bracing. its also called a frame.

the little plastic piece that seperates the glass of the tank, from the stand. every commerically made tank has 2, one on the top and bottom. most of the time they are 'oak grained' or black plastic.

i have never seen a steel stand not support the center of the tank. thats where the most amount of downward force is being applied, the furthest point away from any supporting beams. Any commerically made stand (wood, steel, etc) will not have a plank for the tank to sit on, instead just a lip...

the styrofoam trick is a myth, in my opinion. it will provide a safe and stable platform between the tank and the stand, but not help with anything else. your tank should be fine without one, if your really worried about it, you can go to a LFS (not a chain store) and ask them to special order...

if you still have the overflow box, i am interested.. please pm me.

if you change your mind about seperating, i am interested in the overflow box, let me know.

i am interested in an overflow box, if you have one, i assume you do with a sump/fuge. can you give me the gph rating, and how much you would be asking for it?

tropic if you think thats good check this out... http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=31078

but a 4x4 sheet will still run you at least 30 bucks, plus the solvent to build it, the bulkheads themselves, etc. a rubbermaid container will do the trick and should run 15bucks at your local walmart. bulkheads can easily be overlooked as prettyness shouldn't be a concern for a frag tank...

well the whole idea of a shallow tank is to minimize the need for higher wattage bulbs. i am thinking a rubbermade container (that will fit your design) filled to 12 inches deep would do the trick. anyways i don't see the need to go MH if you keep the tank shallow (14inches max) and the lights...

if i was running a brackish tank, i would skip the protein skimmer altogether, i have never ran a brackish tank though, but have thought about it a few times and read a few books on the subject and not one of hte books have streesed the need for one in a tank, one books said it would be...

i had a good feeling that question would be asked... the answer is simple .. marginally effective. in a brackish tank it will collect some organic matter, but i wouldn't believe it to be much if anything..

the design seems pretty solid to me, but air powered skimmers are only so effective in our trade, which is why most commerical units moved up to venturi styled systems, or needle wheel because these are by far more effective in churning up dissolved organics. i would like to see the results of...