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My Radions trip the GFCI so I have them on a separate circuit. Seemed to only happen when they switched from day to night mode.

Actually, if all your aquarium outlets are on the same circuit, you only need one GFCI outlet on the outlet closest to the breaker/fuse box. All outlets downstream on that circuit will be protected by that single GFCI.

Take the cover off & check the impeller. It's either split and seized or dirty & stuck. Mine do this occasionally but they free up with a spin of the impeller.

Real Reef rock is brand name for rock that is neither, real, from a reef or actually natural rock. I don't believe it comes in "live" form so you should be ok to add it after a good rinse.

Do you have any LPS or anemones that could have stung it?

I saw this tank article a while ago & considered it. You wouldn't want to use salt water because of spray and salt creep but it wouldn't be terrible hard to accomplish with an existing controller & ATO. Some PEX or PVC plumbed into the end of the ATO pump with holes or channels would be enough...

I feel 100% confident stating as FACT that the feature possesses no practical use and is purely aesthetic. There is no reasonable explanation as to why lightening would stimulate growth. Also, due to the randomness and frequency of storms on nature, it would have any effect on a seasonal...

Calcium carbonate deposits. The heat from the heater accelerates its formation. If you want to clean it, a vinegar soak & stiff brush should do it. I don't think it's harmful but it might make your heater less efficient.

The bleaching is not lonely due to light, but from tbsp death of tissue already in progress. Mine close up more in low light. If the healthy looking part seems unaffected by the light you could likely rule that out.

Once it's healthy it can handle more (low to moderate) flow as long as its turbulent & not direct.

I can't tell by looking, is the bare looking skeleton bleached & dead looking or just really retracted? If its the latter, you should have better odds.

Sorry to say that doesn't look good. Usually once to start to go, it's only a matter of time. Low-No flow might help & spot feed it some enriched brine/mysis and you may have a chance. Normally spot feeding isn't required, haven't fed mine in a year, but it may help boost it back to health.

I could be wrong, but my understanding was that during the first 24-48 hours after hatching, the nauplii were still consuming their yolk sacs and are of the highest nutritional value. Beyond that time when the yolk sac is gone and they start feeding, they are only as healthy as what you feed...

Sea Monkeys! They're very easy to hatch & grow out. Grab some cysts $5, a 2L pop bottle and a small air pump & you're good to go. Follow the instructions on the package to hatch them then after 2 days transfer to a small tote or something. You can feed Phyto, yeast, a bunch of stuff really...

Fully concur. I've used them as a staple for a long time. Make sure you get Phosphate Low Range though. My only complaint about Hanna is the lack of Nitrate & Magnesium checkers. They've been on their "to do" list fir years, but they are a large company & aquatics only makes up a small fraction...

Do you mean your 150 reactor? If you want to run both in a reactor it will be less than optimal but it works. I see 2 issues: flow rates & regeneration. If imagine though that Purigen & GFO both need slow flow rates which might not be too bad. Purigen is easily renewed with bleach, with GFO in...

The three major elements of dosing are Calcium, Alkalinity and Magnesium. Some people also dose Potassium, Iodine, Strontium etc. The rule of thumb is that you should only dose what you're testing for as excess could cause harm. I recommend, 24 hours after your water change, measure your Ca...

I've not done it but I've seen it done. Cure the new rock for a month or so, tear down the system & set up a couple holding tanks. Once you add the new rock & sand give it at least a day or two before adding live stock back. I wouldn't do it without a holding tank that could run for a few days...

I would wholeheartedly suggest 2 heater run on a temp controller. Preferably titanium heaters.

Bad joke.

A conch has no business being in any tank under 6'! Seriously though, I've had them buried for months on end. Not exactly sure why though.

You should get the actual number your level is at for starters. You can safely increase you level by 50ppm per day but Epsom salt is not ideal on its own. Epsom Salts are Magnesium Sulfate which breaks down into magnesium and sulfate ions in saltwater. Using that quantity of Epsom will add way...

The only way to know for sure, whether or not to dose, is to periodically test your parameters. Do your water changes, test for nitrate, phosphate, calcium, alkalinity and magnesium as a minimum and based on those results you will know what needs to be adjusted by dosing. If you want stony...

Are you dosing carbon at all?

Looks like you have very little flow in there. You also seen to be quite light on the live rock.