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I have a neptune's apex and love it. expandability and control are top notch

i would remove the canister filter. i had one and it was noting but problems. it needs to be cleaned often. had algae problems removed the filter and algae disappeared slowly. your live rock will do the filtering and your clean up crew will help with the detritus

they should calm down as long as the are not of the same body shape, but each fish is different and should be watched.

i did notice that and $600 for 3 compared to $600 per unit for the name brand , im still leaning towards the reef radiance apex controllability.

i did notice that and $600 for 3 compared to $600 per unit for the name brand , im still leaning towards the reef radiance apex controllability.

they look to be some what the same as the ones i posted but the ones i posted can be controlled by my apex and have 1 cord per unit thanks i will keep them in mind

thinking about upgrading my lights from a 60" 6 bulb t5ho light on a 72" long by 24" deep tank. want led just so confused with all the brands and options, im on a budget and thinking i need 3 units( not sure on that) these look very promising DM-165e - Reef Radiance suggestions

i got the breakout box when i bought my apex second hand so it was still cheaper for me switches were $1.50 each and took less than a min to program. why have the apex if your not gonna use the cool features. as for my powerheads i have rs on for 10min 60-100% every 3sec both for 10 min at...

they make it so you can add switches like on/off switches or a float switch

i run mine basic. use the vdm to control my tunze powerheads. control lights on off, have a breakout box with 2 switches to turn skimmer off when i need to dump the skimmate, and one to turn both return and skimmer off for water changes

so today i noticed my naso has some marks on it wondering what they are

never had a problem with sally lightfoot crabs

just use a ball valve to slow the return

lol a 4 foot tank is fine for a yellow tang but would not put another tang in

lol with a lot of lps, sps you will need calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity, and water changes with that said you would have to test the water to see what is being depleted and add from there

you would need live, rock dry rock is cheeper and with a proper cycle it becomes loaded with bacteria, i would skip the damsels and go with clown fish. get the rock,salt,sand, and powerheads set the tank up let it cycle. once cycled add a couple fish, let the bacteria catch up, add the shrimp,

i run hydors on my 65g tank they are a good ph not great. i have had them start in reverse and the front grills break when used as wave maker. on my 125g i have 2 tunze 6105 and i think they are worth every penny i spent on them

find a local reefer club you can get rbta fairly cheep from local reefers

i wouldn't know with out a pic if its a rose bubble tip but if it gets bulbs on the tentacles then it would be, as for the clowns hosting its hit and miss my clowns have no interest in my rbta or my gpta.

it look deflated and in need of some tlc but it is a brain

i believe the blue special is a little bit bluer then the coarl+ with my 4 bulb system i went with 2 ati blue+ 1 coral+ and one purple+ and i really like the colour.

i like the ati coarl plus instead of the aqua blue special, but its all preference

so you have the power head on the back of the tank blowing to the front?? try it on one side

in a 40g you want about 400gph so you would want at least another one of those powerheads. as for placement move it around until it is not disturbing the sand bed

i have had mine do the same thing after pulling it apart i just kept turning it on till it started flowing back in to the tank then shut it off, let the water equal out and turn it on i had to do this a couple times. bubbles would come out the intake when i shut it off.