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Just do the math, if you're replacing 30 gallons out of 100 then it becomes pretty easy. Whatever amount you change in that system equates directly into percentages so 30 gallons is 30%.

I thought he said something about the livestock being in another tank and all the rock but one piece in a tub. With everything being treated with the tech-m then the bryopsis won't be able to take advantage of the nutrient spike. Yeah, you'll see some other algae bloom but I would put all the...

I meant more due to his algae having so much time to root into the sand I'd imagine he has quite a bit of dying algae happening now especially since the tanks been torn apart essentially. The tank has pretty much already been disrupted past any point you would wanna allow anyways.

True but if he's starting over for the most part it might be a good idea to just go ahead and get all the sand cleaned up. Could become a nutrient issue down the road.

Hope all goes well with the clams. Especially since it seems as though you are finally getting to the tipping point of your algae battle. On a side note keep building up that good karma and maybe it'll pay off in terms of a healthy tank ;) lol

Test the water you're making before you do your water change. This will give you a definitive answer as to whether or not the salt is the issue.

Maybe you were under my "users posts" which would explain all the posts being old and from me lol

Sounds like you are on the right track then. Just don't get impatient with your tech-m treatment and you'll be back to normal in no time at all. Keep us updated and if you have any other questions we'll be here :)

No issues on my end lol

Trust me you aren't alone. Most people (including myself) have/had a difficult time grasping all the information involved in keeping a reef tank at first until you start dealing with it all first hand. Reefing wouldn't be so satisfying if it were easy right? ;)

Dosing should only be needed if A.) You have a lot of hard corals (lps and sps) or B.) You go very long periods between water changes. Hannah checkers may be a good option for you then since they give you a straight forward digital read out on the levels. They are $50 per test which is a little...

Easy question, both lol. Pick up a 40 and a 55 during the $/gallon sale and set up a 55 cichlid tank and a 40 reef.

Kalk itself does not deplete your magnesium levels, the calcification process is what depletes your magnesium which high Alk and calcium from the kalk means faster calcification. It's all a balancing act and once one thing gets out of wack everything falls apart. Just pick up a 2 part of Alk and...

Yeah, kalk should only be used after all levels have been brought to the levels you want to keep. It's made to sustain a constant level not increase levels like a 2 or 3 part. The ph swings would be to drastic for it to be used that way so once you are back to dealing with corals use a 2-3 part...

I'm in West Virginia. I'm still here but me and the ex split (obviously since I'm saying ex lol) so someone had to move... Well, it wasn't her haha

You said your salt seems "clumpy" like it got wet correct? If that is the case then that can really throw off the levels in the salt. When you mix that salt does the water it makes have a murky look or a lot of sediment building up on the bottom of your mix container?

Oh wow, I never noticed you were in san Jose. I was born in Pittsburg and lived in newark/fremont for a while. I've really been considering moving back too haha.

Kent-m contains a mineral of some kind which Kent will not release what it is that is what kills the algae. One of the guys that worked at Kent however did leave the company and made another mag supplement that'll do the same thing. You'll have to google it but I believe it was either seachems...

Lol been a while, everything kinda went on hold for a while there but I'm setting up one of the tanks now which I just need to order a couple more barb fittings and the loc-line for my return and I'm gonna start the cycle. I've moved since the last update and had some issues to deal with but all...

Just follow mr-xs advice and all will be well trust me. He is correct about the algae being bryopsis which is one of the toughest algaes to get rid of. The reason being is it can survive in low to no nutrient environments and spreads anytime a piece breaks off so trying to battle it with low...

If it is what I said then its a sps piece so it does require fairly high lighting and strong flow but to have it bleach or die that quickly I would doubt would be due to low lighting or flow so my next thought would be the acclimation process. How did you acclimate and how are your parameters...

Looks like a birdsnest of some type in very rough shape. The white is it either bleaching or dying.

That's the right stuff, the edges are extra thin but it really isn't an issue. Just make sure its flush on the glass and you shouldn't have any problems.

This is my female festae at about 4-5" , barred up and not.