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I've had 3-4 African Dwarf frogs form PetSmart in my tropical community aquarium and none have been the slightest bit aggressive... I lost 2-3 for unknown causes but there were no injuries on them, I've heard they can choke on food pellets so I assume that's what happened. They will also swim to...

I use two identical 12L buckets with a mark up the side for each liter. I vacuum water out until I hit the number I want in each bucket then dump, rinse, and fill them each up with an extra liter of water, treat them, and pump them back into my aquarium until I hit the full line and the...

It is great, I'm new myself to both fish and the forum. After extensive amounts of research, I was still lacking some key information that I was able to quickly obtain here and now I'm addicted lol

pretty much yes, all water conditiones remove chlorine, but some conditioners like Prime will also detoxify ammo, and nitrites and other conditioners will have things like aloe to help fish heal

That's good to hear, you're welcome, and all the best of luck with your cycle. Remember, we're always here if you have any more questions, don't hesitate to ask

a PWC will help fix the pH but you still need to know the pH of your tap water as a reference point as this is what determines the pH of your tank. If it's anywhere from 7-8pH, then you're set, this will be fine for most fish and make life easy but outside of that, you could have a problem like...

Nope, the bacteria are in your filter media, the gravel, and on your decorations. Although some is in the water, it is very little and a PWC of up to 50% will not harm your cycle (of course, that's providing you use water conditioner as adding untreated tap water is always a bad idea). Your pH...

Sorry, I missed some points there, yes you are progressing, you've passed the first stage of the cycle, the bacteria are turning your ammonia into nitrites. The second part of the cycle is the bacteria that turn nitrites into nitrates. You want to get the nitrites down to a safe level but you...

10-15% is a small water change and won't be effective in lowering a spike, even if done back to back. If your nitrites are off the charts, doing a 50% water change would cut them in half so if you had say 100ppm nitrites and did a 50% PWC, you would have 50ppm left, then you do another 50% water...

I've run a 5 day course of Maroxy and Maracyn and my fish seem much better, the one is fine (caught it just in time) and the other one lost about half the length of his tail fin but is no longer being lazy or hiding and seems happy... now to do a 5 day treatment of Melafix and Pimafix and...

^ 20ppm is deadly, even 5ppm can lead to death, you want 0-0.25ppm ammo and no more (except during a fishless cycle in which case you want to stay under 5ppm I believe)

what is the temperature in the tank?

1. how many watts is the bulb? 6500k is the colour temperature, this being the most important number as it specifies what part of the light spectrum the bulb produces. a grow light can range from 2800-3100k, 6500k is daylight deluxe I believe, 5000k is natural daylight and 4100k is your standard...

2ppm is a lot for tap water, my tap water only has 0.25 ammo 0 nitrites, and 5ppm nitrates, it's also treated with chlorine standard dechlorinator wont remove ammo, that's why it's better to use Prime, also, if your water is treated with chloramine, you will need a double dose of dechlorinator.

that's A LOT of ammo, and could be killing the fish. Anything over 0.5ppm is toxic and under 0.25ppm is required for the fish to remain healthy. What water conditioner are you using? I would suggest using Prime as it will lower your ammonia. Is there maybe a dead fish hidden in there somewhere...

I would suspect that the filter is done, the seal around the pump motor is probably leaking allowing water to get into the electrical and thus leaking voltage back into the aquarium. My second guess would be a crack in the heater causing voltage leak like in the filter The lights shouldn't be...

The water line is the minimum water level, that line should never be out of the water otherwise your heater could overheat and break. also, a 200w heater should be fine, it's controlled by thermostat so it wont cook your fish and although it consumes more power then say a 150w, it will heat up...

Yes, 7.6 is fine. My aquarium is at 7.8 as that's what my tap water is. If your tap water is 7.6 then you should leave it alone otherwise you will have problems every time you do a water change. Like Brian said, pH stability is whats most important and you can insure this with a constant source...

I used the Pimafix and removed the carbon from inside my filter. The sick fish died so it's mostly in the water now however one of my remaining two fish is missing half his tail all of a sudden so maybe I have a new sick fish. you said "add a little melafix in the meantime as well" does this...

so my research shows I can use Pimafix on my remaining fish as it's not a serious case... to bad I bought Melafix lastnight thinking it was fin rot... I guess I'll own both now unless there's a better product to use but I'm only at work for another hour then I likely wont be online again until...

Looking good so far

I guess one question remains, whats the best means of treatment for Columnaris?

isn't carbon good for removing unwanted substances though? should I put some new carbon in after medicating is completed? I'm thinking slice the top open so the media would retain its center pocket

another question, the article says under treatment "Discontinue carbon filtration during treatment" however my filter cartridge is one piece with carbon in the middle. If I remove it won't the bacteria die? I could transfer it to a friends tank to keep the bacteria in it alive but the filter...

I just remembered that I had a pic on my phone of the White Cloud when it was new so there is a tiny bit of white on the back edge of the tail fin. Thats the only symptom (aside for possible tail clamping) which alone isn't definitive to any one disease/infection. If it is columnaris, maybe the...