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Anyone?

It's been about two weeks, and I haven't had any more losses. My heat is still up, the water level is still dropped, and there's still the air stone in place. Questions, though: 1. The blenny seems to really like the warm water. It's probably around 86 right now. I have a kuhli loach and a...

I know we don't sell kH kits at my store, but I may swing by PetSmart this weekend and see if I can pick up a kit there. If I dose Flourish Excel and regular Flourish, would that help keep the plants from pulling from it?

@Spiketooth: I've never tested for that. I didn't even know there was a test...I'm sure its high, though. Indy water is disgusting. ETA: That being said...if this tank was stable for quite some time, and I haven't really changed the water apart from a few gallons of R/O here and there, why...

She was dead this morning.

What other signs should I look for in case of bacterial?

None of the above. The skin looks torn, jagged on the edges, and then directly underneath there are vertical red lines. It's hard to get a picture of her- she's never liked when I approach the tank and spends a lot of time inside of my driftwood, especially now that she's the only gudgeon left...

My peacock gudgeon has developed a reddish white spot on her side- it's vertical streaks of red, but the skin on top actually looks white. Only thing I can think of is septicemia, but that's pretty minimal ammonia to have caused it? ETA: I saw her from a different angle and the skin...

See, I'm pretty convinced it could be partly my readings, because this morning I tested for nitrates, and it read at what I've always considered to be 30 (just a little above what it will normally read, just a shade or two darker than 20). Ammonia was also .25. Hmph. Time for another water...

Tap looks more red. Tap levels for ammonia have always read between .25-.50, but it doesn't take very long at all for my tank to bring those down to 0- within a couple of hours. It's public water. They (as in my county) recently switched from ammonia to ammonium, so I'm not sure if that is...

Well...since there are no spots on any of the fish, how long should I keep up the heat? And how often is "frequent"? My usual twice-a-week; less? More? I did a 25% w/c, lowered the water level about 1/2" from the top, and added an aerator. It's only meant for up to 10g, but I don't really want...

Oh, I forgot to add- I put around 3 tablespoons of salt in there, the same day I started medicating. Not sure if that would have anything to do with it.

I have not. To be honest, I use such little R/O (they've always done fine with tap) and do such frequent water changes that I can typically guess where the pH is going to be. I don't test for it very frequently. There /shouldn't/ still be any medicine in the tank. I ran carbon for a few days...

I have a 20g high, moderately planted tank. I use tap and some R/O, and treat with Seachem Prime. My heater is set to 80 degrees. I run an AquaClear 30 and a Penguin 150. Instead of carbon, I have Purigen and an empty cartridge in the Penguin, and two bags of biomax with a sponge in the...

Oh, okay. I was just curious because my LFS has a whole bunch of duckweed right now that's red in the middle and then green on the edges. They aren't sure what it is exactly. I'll pick up regular duckweed though (: I'm going back either tomorrow or Tuesday.

Probably a silly question, but...if the plants have red in them, would that be helpful? From what I've read that means they require more light, but I wasn't sure if that meant they'd also need more nutrients and would eat up more nitrates.

I definitely want my tank to get to that point, but I thought it'd be better to let some of the plants have space to grow. Would it be better to just completely plant it?

What counts as "heavily" planted? I put in about half of what I planned to plant yesterday- one 6" java fern mat, a bronze wendtii, a small crypt wendtii, frogbit, two anubias nanas, and a few runners of pygmy chain swords. I plan on putting a bunch of java moss, a few more small crypts and...

I retested the tank water and it's at .25 now. Does that mean that the bacteria was able to take it down fast (which would be a good thing, right?)? ETA: If it reads lower tomorrow and the nitrates are lower, do you think I could put in the fish?

I just did: .25 ammonia, 30-40 nitrates. /:

Sorry to make a second thread...but I wanted to be more specific. I came home today hoping to be able to transfer my CPDs...I tested my water and the ammonia had become very close to 0, lighter than the reading I get out of my 5g where those fish are now, so I thought it'd be alright. Then I...

I'm getting frustrated...ammonia has yellowed out some more but my nitrates are darkening. I just did a 25% water change and it didn't really help. /:

Thanks! I'll post a picture up later! No fish yet, and I'm not 100% done adding plants, but it's definitely coming along. I'm not putting in any real ammonia, but I did "feed" the tank...two small flakes. Do you think I should put it more? I'd rather not go the liquid ammonia route. My CPDs...

Background on the tank: Pre-owned 20g high that had been cycled and housed 2 corys, 7 harlequin rasboras, and 3 rummynose tetras (fish were given away). Substrate is black sand. It's running an Aquaclear 30 and a Penguin 150B. 100w heater. Some of the space if taken up by a 3-D background that...

Thanks everyone! I had my post all typed up and ready to go but Safari crashed and I lost it all. I got frustrated so I'm taking a little while to retype it...in an outside program this time :P