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This site helped me rule out ick last year. It may help you as well http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/marineich.html

Try making the gurgle buster. It helps alot but not 100% http://mywebpages.comcast.net/domitron2/HGB/HGB_construction.html

Check out the link attached. It is for how it works but if you search around the site you will find plenty of info. http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html

I would buy dead dry sand and seed it with some LS. Dont use any CC as it will eventually rise to the top as the finer sand particles settle. Use the calculaters at the top to figure how much to use. Good luck.

I hope I can help a little- 1- Use the calculator heading at the top of the page (type in dimensions) 2- Use 1.5 to 2 lbs of LR per gallon to help with bio filtration 3- It depends on what other items add water flow( a FOWLR is 10x turnover per hr) 4- FOWLR will not require any special lighting-...

If all you want is a sump and not a refugium than it is an easy find. Any size tank will give you the increased volume and equipment space. A 30 gal tank would work well for you. It is a lot cheaper than buying a fabricated sump that does the same job.

The cycle itself will help in reducing the cloudiness. The beneficial bacteria will grow and attach to the sand particles making them settle.

I would only be concerned with adding more liverock if you are increasing the bioload as well. The water volume itself doesnt need the extra LR.

What other sources of water movement are you going to have? Are you going to use the SCWD? What head height is it?

Here is a link for a closed loop with SCWD. This setup is for an undrilled tank but might help you some. http://www.melevsreef.com/closedloop.html

When coraline dies off it will turn a white color(bleaching). Coraline algae may be many colors not only purple/pink. The green may be coraline or the start of some other algae growth.

What type of filter is this(canister, HOB). If it is a canister type then it is pulling air from somewhere. If it is the HOB type then the water is being agitated somehow and returning to the tank.

Two ways to stop this from siphoning. !st is to add a one way valve inline of the supply pipe. The other is to dill a small hole at the end of the supply over the 2nd sump. This way when the pump cuts off only what is in the pipe will drain out and no siphon will occur. I hope that made...

I am setting up my closed loop. I am using hangover returns and not drilling the tank. I am adding a SCWD to give a different water current and two returns from it.

Here is an easy setup to take away some of the noise http://mywebpages.comcast.net/domitron2/HGB/HGB_construction.html You can also try just sticking a piece of tubing down from the top. That will allow air in and keep it from getting the whirlpool sucking.

try thinking about it in terms of quantity instead of pressure. You pour one cup of water into a tube. One cup will come out the other end. Now take the same tube but put a y in it before the water comes out. Now there are two outlets giving 1/2 a cup each. Total is still one cup but at...

For a reef setup your water movement should be about 20x hr. The movement at the surface may not look like much but below it may be fine. Also once you split the closed loop into 3 outputs the pressure at each output is greatly reduced. You still get the same turnover but it is dilutted into...

Kukki is right about all that. You canalso take into consideration the heat produced by the lighting system. And any fans in the light strip/canopy.

The HOB skimmer wont work well in the sump(unless it is set inside). The water level in the sump will not be up to the top like the water level in the tank. The bubble traps are used to section off the sump/refuge and help small bubbles to dissipate before the water returns to the main. I...

Most brown algaes are caused by silicates. It may be time to change your water filter. Do you use ro/di. I believe the DI stage is what will reduce the silicates.

How long has he been in your setup? I have heard many write about problems with the swim bladder but never saw it myself.

Are you getting good oxygen exchange at water surface? I was having problems with pH and removed my glass top and increased surface movement and pH came up OK.

You should not have to worry about overflowing either the main or sump if the overflow is working properly. Dont worry about burning the return pump either since the two tanks will equalize themselves. Just remember to replace evaporated water(the open top of the refuge will allow a lot of...

Once the ammonia and nitrite have spiked and returned to zero you are complete. The water change at the end of the cycle is to reduce nitrates and replenish some trace elements. Many people suggest a large water change. I would say if the nitrates are not high then a 10-15% change will do...

If the new rock pieces are large enough they will provide an anaerobic condition for denitrification to occur. I would think that it would take some time for the beneficial bacteria to establish itself though.