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BGK I would NOT treat your BGK if he isn't showing any signs of ich. Do you have another tank? The poison effect of coppersafe is dependent on the hardness of your water. The softer and more acidic your water is, the more dangerous using coppersafe will be. Treating tetra with coppersafe is...

Hardnesses It is very possible to have high KH and low GH or vice versa. Jsoog is absolutely right. Its all very confusing! In my tank, I have a KH of 0, and a GH of 5-7 degrees. I wish it were the reverse, I'd keep discus! I have to stabilize my KH using coral gravels, in a cannister...

BUtterfly loaches are sensitive. Specifically to nitrates. First nitrates over 10ppm kill. WELL oxygenated water is a must, cooler - moving waters are a big plus. Algea and tubifex worms are big fav for mine. Mine hand feeds everytime I get out the worms...but no other time. They are his...

Another vote for 125. I LOVE mine! Same dimensions as the one you quote. That's a 125 long tank. There's another that's not quite as long and taller instead. Too hard to do maintenance (I'm already too short for the 125 and need a stupid ladder!)

Rams Rams are such sensitive fish. They are often carrying internal parasitic infections when you get them. The ones that are wild caught are impossible to keep in an aquarium for long. The best advice I can give you on rams is to have lots of fresh water, low TDS levels, very, very stable...

Just in case, I'll toss in some info... Swim bladder disease is not a disease in its own right, it is - infact - a symptom of something else. Usually a bactertial infection. In cases severe enough to cause SBD, i would suggest some strong meds and lots of small, serial water changes to bring...

I just have to comment that in short term doses...most any fish will tolerate low levels of salt. Some species are more receptive than others. Sudden large or sustained changes in salinity (usually only altered with marine salts) are what's really debateable. Two big rules: Don't dump salt...

You're such a kind person to try and save this fish! I wish you the absolute best of luck. You don't have to do 100% changes every day or two, unless its less than 5 gallons. 50% daily would probably keep the ammonia to a minimum. Only feed every other day, just a pinch - to keep his natural...

LOL...after nearly 5 years of fishkeeping, I thought I was immune. NOT. 2 weekends ago I was performing my usual 50% water change on my 125 gallon tank. As you can imagine, refilling can take a little while. I dumped in my dechlor, started the fill process and hubby came home. I figured I...

I agree and disagree. Treating the fish is an option, so yes - you can take him home and treat him. The ride may be stressful, but you may have better luck controlling the environment at home. Be sure that your PH levels are identical, and if they aren't - don't forget to acclimate the fish...

Are you adding any salts to their water? Fin rot is more often than not the fault of a bacterial infection. If you are already adding salt for your cichlids, I'd guess you need to move to a stronger, more aggressive med, and increase your water changes...are you changing water and gravel...

Lumps/bumps www.fishpalace.org/danscomments.htm "Wounds that are white on the edges and red in the center are most typically Aeromonas. Those that are red on the edges and white in the center are generally Columnaris. Both are gram negative bacteria. The best treatment for this is any sulfa...

Melafix/Salt Melafix will not interfere with the salt treatment you are using now, to the best of my knowledge. Melafix is often coupled with salt in the treatment of many minor or secondary infections. You said fraying of the scales? Or fins? Fraying of scales...meaning, they are sticking...

I know...funny I'd post a contradition to what I said, eh? I forgot that was in there...I like the article because its easy reading in layman's terms, ya know? I got my information from a book on fish health, from the "pros", if you will. So I'd trust that over someone that doesn't quote...

I would not guess TB in a fish with physical symptoms such as bloating or redness. TB is contagious - and the best way is through eating an infected dead fish - but its not the only way. The only way to certify TB is through a culture. I'll warn you that you should excercise caution when...

Heat Heat (at those temps) is not going to kill ich. Heat has got to exceed 90F for 3 hours every 3 days. I'm not sure your fish will tolerate the swings. Even at those temps - "death" of ich is iffy. A little article on ich - to help understand what works best...

Hey, thanks Menagerie! Great site you all have here BTW!

Schooling #1) No, "similar" tetra won't "school" together unless forced. In that same breath, I'll tell you most schooling fish won't school in an aquarium. In nature, schooling is a protective behavior. reflex, if you will. Your tetra will school together if there is a significant threat...

There are a couple things to consider: 1) what type of test kit are you using. If using a nessler based system, you'll often get false positives after using ammo-lock. Switch to a salicylate based test kit (By A.P. - the liquid reagents). You may be testing positive for ammonium. 2) is there...

Well...here's the thing...with adequate filtration and water volume, ammonia may not be an issue. Goldfish are FW fish, just not tropical freshwater. What are issues are these: 1) dietary requirements...not the same. Its important that each be met separately. 2) temp requirements, also not...

Overstocking?? LOL...I so totally agree with many here... #1) overstocking is more than inches per gallon.... #2) habitat, territory, species should all be taken into consideration. #3) The 1" per gallon rule should NOT be used for fish that get larger than 2" at adulthood...that's what...

As mentioned, planting can help with nitrates...but yes - its very possible to have such high nitrates. The reason is because you're overstocked. Plecos just happen to be particularly messy fish. they produce a lot of waste. While 80 isn't "all that high", plecos in particular are a species...

Besides that, a high KH is beneficial to stability in your tank. Most fish will acclimate to just about any PH, short of sensitive species or S.A. species prone to HITH. KH is carbonate hardness and is the buffering capacity of your water against PH swing. That's a good thing. Definitely get...

I wouldn't use RO/DI water unless your keeping discus. Too much extra work. Unless your tap water sucks, like mine. I like cannisters (I use a fluval 404) - but I also like tetratechs w/ internal heaters (HOBs). Its extremely effective in uniformly heating the water with a single 200w heater...

Remember, marineland has a vested interest in your support of carbon use. Carbon does have its place, but it doesn't really remain effective for 2-3 weeks or a month. 2-3 weeks may be more accurate if you purchase high quality GAC, but the stuff that comes prepackages is usually crap. Even...