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pure jelly over here

you would need 2 of these hung over your tank 165W Dimmable Full Spectrum LED Aquarium Light Marine Reef Coral Fish Tank Lamp | eBay

2 things come to mind. Leak at the connection of the hose to the pump. Or By adding hose you've increased the length the water has to flow. Closest route is always a straight line and having a curvy hose is adding more distance.

Sadly I don't think anyone has time to go over hypothetical sw setups since there is a wide range of ways to run a sw tank. Most likely why you haven't gotten many responses. The initial cost to jump into sw is sorta high depending on whether you are financially blessed or not. Maintaining it...

No decorations are not needed.

I'm with sniper on this. I have zero sand or mud and my tank is fine. Barebottom display.

"Don't let your resin get past 1-2 TDS or you can be adding much more than you think to your reef." -AZDesertrat Glad you got it figured out.

Are you testing the filtered waters TDS? You have a tds meter correct? Ifnot you need one. You need to monitor the tds after the membrane and after the DI filter. A rodi unit should be producing 0 tds water or something needs replacing. For instance if you were to test the tds of the water...

you need to find distilled water

Ewps! Did you mean remove carbon? Yes removing carbon is wise. Negligible? Exactly the word I could have used. Even a small or tiny amount would offset the validity of the whole idea of this type of cycling.

The chances of someone acquiring a plant or multiple plants that haven't been exposed to a preexisting cycled tank is slim. Nitrifying bacteria colonize all surfaces within an aquarium. Making this type of cycling merely an illusion. Because all you are doing is adding seeded materials(plants).

My advice is to start with a less finicky fish. I've bought Banggais a few times they never live.

Explaining the light rather than wattage will give you better results on an answer. It's real hard to give absolute answers on hypothetical questions.

Sorry think you misread? I quoted him on the seeding definition. Did you miss that?

Those fish in general are hard to keep for some reason. Your lfs runs their SG low to keep parasites at bay. You did everything right. Don't let them control your SG, you make that decision.

You do realize you're the only one in the community that thinks that? Have you ever done a search for "what is seeding an aquarium"? All results from thus search will pull up info about introducing nitrifying bacteria via established aquarium items. :facepalm: Good to see you X. :D

reef octopus has never done me wrong do not use a canister

Buy a ton of dry rock seed it with 10% live rock. powerheads leds protein skimmer heater RO system at least RODI if you can

keep him stress free and you wont see it

Without knowing more info about the previous tank neither you nor I can make that call. Vague questions are given vague answers. Limiting her options hypothetically isn't being helpful at all.

#1 hard to say - bad thing about stem plants like that you aren't sure if you are looking at actual sumersed growth. #2 sword #3 looks like micro sword #4 looks like stargrass #5 looks like corkscrew val

That's not the point. The point is to move over as much as you can. If even for a short period of time. OP needs to realize she has options and not just the typical regurgitated filter media option. Good point to bring up since she didn't mention that.

Its always a good idea to feed light after transferring media into a new tank. The more media the better and you aren't limited to filter media. This might be a shocker but anything wet inside a tank is a biofilter: gravel plants decorations. My guess is you didn't add enough biopopulated items...

Amen brother :agree: :whistle:

pics are almost impossible to see, try taking a pic with just white lights