Cloudy water suggestions???

[TheDudeAbides]

Opinions on using cloudy water treatments as a remedy? My water isn’t terribly cloudy, but it is cloudy for about a few weeks now. I’ve done water changes, checked my parameters with the API test kit. Everything good. Should I bother with any of these additives or let it be? I’m hesitant to add any unnecessary chemicals unless absolutely needed.

 

[Andy Sager]

If this isn't a cycled tank, it's typical and you should do nothing. If this is a cycled tank, what color is the cloud and can you post a pic of it and the tank?

 

[TheDudeAbides]

If this isn't a cycled tank, it's typical and you should do nothing. If this is a cycled tank, what color is the cloud and can you post a pic of it and the tank?

It is a cycled tank. It’s not really too cloudy at the moment, but I definitely had it crystal clear for a while. I can’t really notice a color, but it just has a little haze to it. Can’t see from the pic really though. Of course it looks clear here lol…

 

[Ed Pursell]

My opinion only, don’t add no chemicals. Do your weekly water changes, and question, is it possible your glass has a slight film on it causing the “haze” when you are viewing it? Are you wiping down the glass when doing weekly water changes? Could be just some build up on the viewing area looking at it, use a sponge type pad to wipe it clean. Just a suggestion. Maybe your glass has a slight build up on it…. Don’t go for “snake oil” treatments, you should be able to clear it without treating, Water changes, wiping, gravel siphon. Let the cycle do it’s thing…

 

[Andy Sager]

It is a cycled tank. It’s not really too cloudy at the moment, but I definitely had it crystal clear for a while. I can’t really notice a color, but it just has a little haze to it. Can’t see from the pic really though. Of course it looks clear here lol…

It certainly does look almost clear but I see the haze closer to that strip light than say, the back corner next to the tall plant and rocks. Ed probably has nailed the issue and what you are seeing is the reflection of the biofilm from that light. I also see you have some good aeration in the tank so to confirm it's not a case of tiny bubbles causing the haze, take a sample of water on the side where the Neons are in your pic in a clear container and let it sit overnight. If the issue is tiny bubbles, the water should be clear after a few hours. If there is particulates in the water, you should see them on the bottom of the container. Phosphates can come out of solution from a change in water chemistry among other things. You get an increase in phosphates from a number of items including the fish food, decaying plants and even your tap water. Also, you can get a haze in the water if your filter needs cleaning. When was the last time you cleaned the filter box?

 

[TheDudeAbides]

I’ll take all suggestions into consideration. Maybe I will give the glass a good cleaning. The filter is clean though as of about a week ago. I actually did think of the possibility of tiny bubbles because of aeration. I actually turned the bubbles down a bit in consideration of that.

 

[Andy Sager]

I’ll take all suggestions into consideration. Maybe I will give the glass a good cleaning. The filter is clean though as of about a week ago. I actually did think of the possibility of tiny bubbles because of aeration. I actually turned the bubbles down a bit in consideration of that.

Do the test I described to confirm. Tiny bubbles can actually cause gas issues with the fish so you want to be sure it's not that.

 

[TheDudeAbides]

 

[TheDudeAbides]

Ok…. update. As you can see the cloudiness is getting worse. I performed a water change again a couple days ago, and now this is how it looks. This is a side glass shot and you can barely see through to the other side. Tank is only 24 inches across. The filter is clean, and I did that water test. Didn’t see anything settled or floating in the test water & it appeared clear. Which, based on the suggestion, means possibly tiny bubbles? But I’ve turned down the aeration again. The bubbles aren’t that strong. Can’t figure this out.

 

[Andy Sager]

Ok…. update. As you can see the cloudiness is getting worse. I performed a water change again a couple days ago, and now this is how it looks. This is a side glass shot and you can barely see through to the other side. Tank is only 24 inches across. The filter is clean, and I did that water test. Didn’t see anything settled or floating in the test water & it appeared clear. Which, based on the suggestion, means possibly tiny bubbles? But I’ve turned down the aeration again. The bubbles aren’t that strong. Can’t figure this out.

There are some "polishing" materials like Purigen, acurel F, Polishing pads, etc that can help filter out the tiniest of particles but these are materials that will need to be consistently replaced so let's look at some other avenues: Do you feed more dried foods than frozen foods? Do you notice the water gets cloudier after feeding? Do you have anything in the filter ( cartridges, ceramic material, etc) that may be washing out this haze? Have you tried an algaecide in case this is algae? Do you have access to a UV sterilizer?

 

[TheDudeAbides]

There are some "polishing" materials like Purigen, acurel F, Polishing pads, etc that can help filter out the tiniest of particles but these are materials that will need to be consistently replaced so let's look at some other avenues: Do you feed more dried foods than frozen foods? Do you notice the water gets cloudier after feeding? Do you have anything in the filter ( cartridges, ceramic material, etc) that may be washing out this haze? Have you tried an algaecide in case this is algae? Do you have access to a UV sterilizer?

I typically alternate feedings between flakes, and freeze dried brine shrimp. Occasionally I’ll substitute with dried blood worm. I have never noticed cloudier water after feeding. I do have a small bag of Sera Siporax bio filter media inside the filter chamber but the water was clear while that was in there for a while already. I’ve never tried an algaecide. Haven’t tried any kind of water treatments yet. I’m always hesitant to do so. I’m afraid these somewhat delicate fish will respond poorly to any chemicals. I WANT to try some of these treatments but I’m just worried about the after effects. And I do not have a UV sterilizer. As far as these polishing materials go, what are they and how often do they need replacement?

 

[Andy Sager]

I typically alternate feedings between flakes, and freeze dried brine shrimp. Occasionally I’ll substitute with dried blood worm. I have never noticed cloudier water after feeding. I do have a small bag of Sera Siporax bio filter media inside the filter chamber but the water was clear while that was in there for a while already. I’ve never tried an algaecide. Haven’t tried any kind of water treatments yet. I’m always hesitant to do so. I’m afraid these somewhat delicate fish will respond poorly to any chemicals. I WANT to try some of these treatments but I’m just worried about the after effects. And I do not have a UV sterilizer. As far as these polishing materials go, what are they and how often do they need replacement?

I'm not familiar with that Sera product but a little research and I found this: " While Sera Siporax itself shouldn't directly cause cloudy water, if it becomes clogged with debris or experiences excessive bacterial growth due to poor water quality or overfeeding, it can lead to cloudy water in your aquarium as the filter isn't effectively removing particles from the water column; this is because Siporax is designed as a biological filter media, meaning it primarily relies on bacteria colonization to process waste, and if too much waste builds up, it can become overwhelmed and lead to cloudiness. "

If you have alternate surface area for the nitrifying bacteria to colonize, I'd try removing the Siporax but if not, I'd give it some rinsing off ( not aggressively mind you) the product to better remove any debris that may be clogging the surfaces.

 

[TheDudeAbides]

I'm not familiar with that Sera product but a little research and I found this: " While Sera Siporax itself shouldn't directly cause cloudy water, if it becomes clogged with debris or experiences excessive bacterial growth due to poor water quality or overfeeding, it can lead to cloudy water in your aquarium as the filter isn't effectively removing particles from the water column; this is because Siporax is designed as a biological filter media, meaning it primarily relies on bacteria colonization to process waste, and if too much waste builds up, it can become overwhelmed and lead to cloudiness. "

If you have alternate surface area for the nitrifying bacteria to colonize, I'd try removing the Siporax but if not, I'd give it some rinsing off ( not aggressively mind you) the product to better remove any debris that may be clogging the surfaces.

So I did rinse off that Siporax lightly and I put it in a new pouch as the old one was green and slimy. I also decided to bite the bullet and try some water clarifier that I had. In addition to that, I decided to order a polishing pad to give that a shot as well. And I retested the water again… 0 Ammonia, 10PPM Nitrate, 0 Nitrite. My aeration is at a minimum IMO, so I’m finding it hard to believe that this cloudiness is tiny bubbles as a result of that. Quite frustrating honestly.

 

[Andy Sager]

So I did rinse off that Siporax lightly and I put it in a new pouch as the old one was green and slimy. I also decided to bite the bullet and try some water clarifier that I had. In addition to that, I decided to order a polishing pad to give that a shot as well. And I retested the water again… 0 Ammonia, 10PPM Nitrate, 0 Nitrite. My aeration is at a minimum IMO, so I’m finding it hard to believe that this cloudiness is tiny bubbles as a result of that. Quite frustrating honestly.

Hopefully that will solve your problem. I thought you ruled out the tiny bubbles already.

 

[Aiken Drum]

There is the nuclear option of using a UV Clarifier to kill off persistent bacterial blooms.

 

[TheDudeAbides]

Hopefully that will solve your problem. I thought you ruled out the tiny bubbles already.

Hope so. So far the water clarifier hasn’t touched it. That water I tested was clear. Did not show any kind of particulate or debris at all. I just received the polishing pad. As soon as I get a chance, I’m going to use it and give it a few days to see if there’s any improvement.

 

[TheDudeAbides]

There is the nuclear option of using a UV Clarifier to kill off persistent bacterial blooms.

Do you think that’s what this is? Some kind of bacterial bloom? If the water parameters stay good, can this be something just passes or will it need a treatment like what you mentioned or perhaps some other kind of treatment?

 

[Andy Sager]

After what I read about Siporax and if it gets clogged, it's probably a bacterial bloom because the microbes that would consume them didn't have access to them. Bacterial blooms are very common in uncycled tanks for a similar reason, ( they haven't established in the tank yet) so I'd just give the cleaned out and new material a chance ( 7-10 days) before trying something else especially since you said that you didn't have this issue before when you had the Siporax present.

 

[Aiken Drum]

Do you think that’s what this is? Some kind of bacterial bloom? If the water parameters stay good, can this be something just passes or will it need a treatment like what you mentioned or perhaps some other kind of treatment?

It looks like a bacterial bloom to me. If its a new aquarium it may pass, if it's an established aquarium you may find a solution, that solution may be to reduce the number of fish, increase filtration, get better filter media, reduce feeding or increase water changes etc. Or you could fiddle with things for the next 12 months and find no solution. Finding a natural solution is obviously the best solution, but I wanted to put UV on the table as it will kill bacterial blooms.

I've got an overstocked aquarium that has the same issue. I fiddled with things for 6 months maybe. Saw some improvement but never completely resolved. 24 hours after installing UV, completely clear water. 5 years go by, and i knew the UV had stopped working because the cloudiness came back. The impeller had stopped running, and I couldn't get it running again, so I got a new UV and again 24 hours later, clear water. I'm fairly certain if I halved the number of fish my issue would be resolved. I don't have the same issue on other aquariums that aren't overstocked.

You havent given any details about the aquarium, size, stock, filtration etc. But it does look quite busy from the photos you posted, and the light on the bottom is probably making things appear worse than it is. And remember that your test kit is a home test kit and not all that accurate. It might be you are getting trace amounts of ammonia, especially after feeding, that your filtration isn't clearing immediately as it should. While these trace amounts may not be enough to register on a test, they would be enough to trigger a bacterial bloom. Is the cloudiness worse an hour or so after you have fed your fish?

I've had a look at your filtration media. It gets its surface area from it's porosity similar to seachem matrix or biohome. If it loses its porosity it loses a lot of that surface area and won't function as well. Ensuring you have a polishing pad before the filter media will help prevent the pores in the filter media from getting clogged up. Increasing filter maintenance including frequent rinsing off the filter media might help. Sintered glass media is often quite fragile too and tends to disintegrate quite quickly, but that's a different issue.

How much water and how much filter media do you have? You want to be looking for 1kg of filter media for every 100 litres of water.

There are things you can look at before considering UV, although some of those things are probably more palettable than others. And your filter media is certainly one of those things, especially if your problem after you switched it. Looking at the photos, it just looks like a smooth ring it doesn't look to provide much in the way of surface area, and these porous types of media don't tend to work as well as the manufacturers claim down to the porosity getting clogged up very quickly. A more traditional textured ceramic ring like biomax might give better surface area, and simple block of 30ppi sponge would almost certainly be better. Plastic pot scrubbers are excellent filter media to.

But UV will solve your issue.

 

[TheDudeAbides]

It looks like a bacterial bloom to me. If its a new aquarium it may pass, if it's an established aquarium you may find a solution, that solution may be to reduce the number of fish, increase filtration, get better filter media, reduce feeding or increase water changes etc. Or you could fiddle with things for the next 12 months and find no solution. Finding a natural solution is obviously the best solution, but I wanted to put UV on the table as it will kill bacterial blooms.

I've got an overstocked aquarium that has the same issue. I fiddled with things for 6 months maybe. Saw some improvement but never completely resolved. 24 hours after installing UV, completely clear water. 5 years go by, and i knew the UV had stopped working because the cloudiness came back. The impeller had stopped running, and I couldn't get it running again, so I got a new UV and again 24 hours later, clear water. I'm fairly certain if I halved the number of fish my issue would be resolved. I don't have the same issue on other aquariums that aren't overstocked.

You havent given any details about the aquarium, size, stock, filtration etc. But it does look quite busy from the photos you posted, and the light on the bottom is probably making things appear worse than it is. And remember that your test kit is a home test kit and not all that accurate. It might be you are getting trace amounts of ammonia, especially after feeding, that your filtration isn't clearing immediately as it should. While these trace amounts may not be enough to register on a test, they would be enough to trigger a bacterial bloom. Is the cloudiness worse an hour or so after you have fed your fish?

I've had a look at your filtration media. It gets its surface area from it's porosity similar to seachem matrix or biohome. If it loses its porosity it loses a lot of that surface area and won't function as well. Ensuring you have a polishing pad before the filter media will help prevent the pores in the filter media from getting clogged up. Increasing filter maintenance including frequent rinsing off the filter media might help. Sintered glass media is often quite fragile too and tends to disintegrate quite quickly, but that's a different issue.

How much water and how much filter media do you have? You want to be looking for 1kg of filter media for every 100 litres of water.

There are things you can look at before considering UV, although some of those things are probably more palettable than others. And your filter media is certainly one of those things, especially if your problem after you switched it. Looking at the photos, it just looks like a smooth ring it doesn't look to provide much in the way of surface area, and these porous types of media don't tend to work as well as the manufacturers claim down to the porosity getting clogged up very quickly. A more traditional textured ceramic ring like biomax might give better surface area, and simple block of 30ppi sponge would almost certainly be better. Plastic pot scrubbers are excellent filter media to.

But UV will solve your issue.

Ok, so as far as UV goes, is that something that gets installed and used permanently or is something to use only when a fix like this is needed?

The tank isn’t that large. It’s a 20 gallon tall with a HOB filter set up. I have a total of 14 fish. Mostly a couple of varieties of Tetras, and 2 Cory’s, and 1 Chinese Algae eater. Unfortunately for the time being I’m still using the replaceable floss carbon filter cartridges. I understand the carbon media doesnt really do much unless you’re trying to remove certain kinds of treatments. I do have some sponges on the way that I was going to swap out the carbon filter with. I also now have a polishing pad in front of the floss filter. Obviously with this type of HOB filter it’s hard to set it up differently than it was designed for, but this is the order of filtration I’m using from back to front:
Floss carbon filter (until I get the sponge filter), then the polishing pad, then the bio media bag is last before the water returns to the tank.

I will try get a different type of bio media like the bio max you suggested. It’s possible I may not be using enough of it though due to the filter limitations. So I may need to add some more in some bags and just place them in the tank itself.

Also, the tank is not new. It was a new set up in June, but obviously has been established for quite some time now.

It’s true, the bottom light makes it looks worse than it is, but even with it shut off it’s still hard to see all the way through from one end of the tank to the other. And that’s only a 24” distance. And that water was crystal clear at one point for quite some time. I also try not to over feed and perform water changes once a week.