Filtration set up and nitrate levels.

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EGGBERT

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I'll tell you a story about zeolite.

My manager keeps a 60 litre aquarium for his kids. It's not suitable for some of the fish he keeps, but that's another issue. He's the kind of person who will ask for advice on things, but just wants people to agree with him, and if you don't tell him what he expects to hear he will just go forward with what he wants to do regardless.

He knows I keep fish, and tells me he got advice from a fish store to put some product in his aquarium and it will help keep his water clean and mean he doesnt need to change water as often. He shows me a screenshot of the product on his phone, it doesnt really say what it is, but it looks like zeolite. So I say "that looks like zeolite" and explain what I think will happen.

"Zeolite will absorb ammonia, yes it will clean up water quality. When you change your water your nitrate levels will fall, the zeolite will absorb the ammonia and prevent the nitrogen cycle from functioning and keep nitrate from rising. It will be chemically doing the work of the nitrogen cycle and will appear that everything is fine. Behind the scenes those microbes responsible for your cycle will be dying off because they being starved of food. In a month or 2 the zeolite will fill up and stop working. Because all those ammonia consuming microbes are now dead, your ammonia will start to build up and if you don't catch it with testing it can get to toxic levels quite quickly".

It took about a month before his fish started dying. He asked me again what was happening, and I reminded him I told him what would happen, and he should get his water tested. High ammonia.

He has now stopped using zeolite and let's the natural processes properly establish in his aquarium.

Zeolite has uses, if you are having ammonia issues that you can't keep on top of with water changes it's a temporary solution. And there are ways to use it and ways not to.

This feeds into aquarium product manufacturers trying to cream you for aftersales. A lot of filtration systems, particularly for smaller aquarium utilise cartridges. They tell you need to change these cartridges every month or so. Aftersales. You will often find these cartridges contain zeolite. As said this will prevent your cycle from establishing. As long as you change the cartridge before the zeolite gets used up all is good. But the filter manufacturer wants you tied into their products, and you don't need to be. Throw away the cartridges, the filter is just a box that can hold anything. Fill the filter with proper biomedia and sponge. Let your aquarium cycle. Biomedia and sponge will last years without needing changing, possibly decades. With a bit of knowledge and little up front work you don't need to keep giving these companies money and your aquarium will be healthier for the effort also.

I can accept there might be some convenience factor involved in taking short cuts. It's not really a big deal to change a filter cartridge periodically or add some detritus consuming additive with your water change, or whatever. But its not the best way to do things, and costs money you don't really need to be spending.

It isn't just Seachem. It's pretty much all aquarium product manufacturers. API put an aloe vera additive into one of their water conditioners, charge a premium for it as it "promotes slime coat" and is "good for a fishes health". But aloe vera is a terrible thing to add into the water with anything that has gills as it coats them and makes them function less efficiently. Biorb aquariums have terrible filtration that has a simple, cheap fix, but they won't fix it because it would mean they don't sell so many servive packs (ive seen them put that it writing). As aluded to above, almost every filter manufacturer will make an exaggerated claim on the performance of their filter, and then put in the small print that it won't actually perform as well as they claim. Shout out to Eheim as the exception here.
Wowwee… Your zeolite story is very enlightening, &, imho, the, in effect, exploitation—particularly of new-to-the-avocation individuals’ ignorance—on the part of certain manufacturers, IS ‘nefarious’.

On the basis of what i’ve learned from your recent replies, i have to do some serious rejigging of my modest setup🤦🏻

Thankfully, things are copacetic, but i’m also somewhat fanatic in my attentions—i check levels 2ce/day—if i’m slacking off, 1ce/day!
The basis for this is the difficulties/obstacles i’ve had nearly from the get-go. I was inadequately prepared/educated by the LFS staff from whom i acquired my aquatic creatures, so have been amending mistakes w/new products/more intensive education day after day (after day!!!).

No ill will directed toward the LFS staff—they’ve been extremely supportive in their capacity, & of course they’ve got a commercial commitment. Perhaps because most folks r clueless about the complexity of aquatics, & also want ‘instant gratification’, 1) staff isn’t trained/expected to adequately educate new ‘fish guardians’ (particularly in an establishment where aquatics isn’t the sole focus); 2) said guardians mostly aren’t proactive enough w/research/self-education, & 3) a lot of folk acquire aquatics to entertain their youngsters, perhaps w/the “it’s only a fish” perspective that can be ‘flushed’ & replaced cheaply, allowing for another ‘doom scenario’☹️

My current ‘aquahabitants’ seem to be especially hardy, & have therefore survived several snafus that have thrown me into panic mode.
Initially i had no success in controlling the ammonia factor, THEN, someone referenced ZEOLITE, which appeared to be the panacea i was urgently seeking. So, for a few months now i’ve had 3 tiny pouches alongside the cartridges in the filter: 1) 2 tbsps zeolite, 2) 2 tbsbs zeolite/carbon 3) 1/2-1 tsp of Seachem Purigen (the latter introduced to stem an algal bloom).

I last changed the pouch contents on Feb 4th; currently i do h2o changes every 4-7 days. The readings r holding pretty steady at 7-7.6pH, ammonia/nitrite ‘0’, temp 77F—the latest concern has been nitrate. It had climbed from 5ppm to betw. 10-20ppm; did h20 change on Feb 21st—nitrate back to 5ppm.

Per your latest input, i looked up ‘Eheim’ filters—had never heard of the company. I queried for an Eheim filter suitable for a 5gal tank—doesn’t seem to be available (or advised) for anything smaller than 20gal😞 It would be very problematic for me to cycle a larger tank at this time (human habitat-wise), which is not to say it’s impossible, but would require major space modification, so for the time being i’d like to maximally improve my 5gal.

I would like to try your suggestion of using a sponge (already have that component) & filtering material that doesn’t contain zeolite or other elements that might sabotage the biological health of the tank.

I’m attaching a pic of the setup; mentioned way back when, it’s housing a plakat betta, a hillstream loach, & 2 mystery snails. It also contains some healthy live plants (anubias & some ferns).

Can u recommend a brand of filtering material that i might replace the cartridges with? I will remove the pouch of zeolite, but feel uneasy about removing the zeolite/carbon pouch (because, i consider the stuff the salvation of the 5gal—also, ‘baby steps’).

THANK YOU✨
 

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Your filtration is working fine.

If your nitrate is rising, the zeolite has expired and is no longer doing anything. Replace it, leave it in, take it out, no difference. If it gives you peace of mind keep using it. If you are going to continue to use zeolite, then make sure this is the last thing your water goes through before the water is sent back in the aquarium. That way your biological filtration is removing any ammonia and keeping your cycle functioning and the zeolite is then just dealing with any spikes that might occur.

The purigen and carbon probably isn't doing anything either. I don't see anything in your aquarium that would be releasing anything that either carbon or purigen might deal with. But again, its your aquarium and if it gives you peace of mind.

What precisely is your filter make and model? Just look at 30ppi sponge and some ceramic rings, something like fluval biomax. Biological media is just something that provides surface area for those microbes to grow on. An old sock stuffed in your filter will provide biological filtration. Plastic pot scrubbers make great biological filtration media. Sponge is great biological filtration as well as providing mechanical filtration. You could just fill your filter with 30ppi sponge if you wanted to, rinse it out in dechlorinated water with your water change, job done. I mostly use biohome media, but generally if im setting up a new filter I just use whatever i have in a tote box I keep, with loads of old media I've collected. I've got a big bag of K1 in the garden shed too. I have an aquarium with just 1 big sponge block that works fine.

You want the order of flow through your media to be mechanical (sponge), then biological (ceramic rings, sponge etc), then if you have any, chemical (zeolite, carbon, purigen) last.

Your filter is functioning, it's converting ammonia into nitrate. While it could be set up better, there is the convenience factor of what you have and it works. What you might find is, when you come to change a cartridge it might set your cycle back a bit and need a few days, maybe a week to catch up. Dont replace cartridges if you dont need to, just rinse them on dechlorinated water or water taken from your aquarium. If your filter holds 2 cartridges then only replace 1 at a time. If you permanently removed the cartridges now you would need to cycle the filtration again. That prefilter sponge will be doing a lot of the work, so as long as you left that there it wouldn't be a complete start over.

Now your water quality is consistent, I think testing the water twice a day is a bit over the top. If it gives you peace of mind, no harm done. If you start mucking about with filtration set up, then testing the water daily would be good until you are confident things are established. But once everything is running smoothly, weekly would be more than enough. I don't remember the last time I did a water test on an established aquarium. At least a year ago, probably 2 or 3 years ago. I'm sure some of my test kit has expired by now.
 
Your filtration is working fine.

If your nitrate is rising, the zeolite has expired and is no longer doing anything. Replace it, leave it in, take it out, no difference. If it gives you peace of mind keep using it. If you are going to continue to use zeolite, then make sure this is the last thing your water goes through before the water is sent back in the aquarium. That way your biological filtration is removing any ammonia and keeping your cycle functioning and the zeolite is then just dealing with any spikes that might occur.

The purigen and carbon probably isn't doing anything either. I don't see anything in your aquarium that would be releasing anything that either carbon or purigen might deal with. But again, its your aquarium and if it gives you peace of mind.

What precisely is your filter make and model? Just look at 30ppi sponge and some ceramic rings, something like fluval biomax. Biological media is just something that provides surface area for those microbes to grow on. An old sock stuffed in your filter will provide biological filtration. Plastic pot scrubbers make great biological filtration media. Sponge is great biological filtration as well as providing mechanical filtration. You could just fill your filter with 30ppi sponge if you wanted to, rinse it out in dechlorinated water with your water change, job done. I mostly use biohome media, but generally if im setting up a new filter I just use whatever i have in a tote box I keep, with loads of old media I've collected. I've got a big bag of K1 in the garden shed too. I have an aquarium with just 1 big sponge block that works fine.

You want the order of flow through your media to be mechanical (sponge), then biological (ceramic rings, sponge etc), then if you have any, chemical (zeolite, carbon, purigen) last.

Your filter is functioning, it's converting ammonia into nitrate. While it could be set up better, there is the convenience factor of what you have and it works. What you might find is, when you come to change a cartridge it might set your cycle back a bit and need a few days, maybe a week to catch up. Dont replace cartridges if you dont need to, just rinse them on dechlorinated water or water taken from your aquarium. If your filter holds 2 cartridges then only replace 1 at a time. If you permanently removed the cartridges now you would need to cycle the filtration again. That prefilter sponge will be doing a lot of the work, so as long as you left that there it wouldn't be a complete start over.

Now your water quality is consistent, I think testing the water twice a day is a bit over the top. If it gives you peace of mind, no harm done. If you start mucking about with filtration set up, then testing the water daily would be good until you are confident things are established. But once everything is running smoothly, weekly would be more than enough. I don't remember the last time I did a water test on an established aquarium. At least a year ago, probably 2 or 3 years ago. I'm sure some of my test kit has expired by now.
Hi Aiken… Thanks again for excellent guidance. I’ve attached photos of the 5gal’s filtration unit along w/photos of the cartridges currently in use (included w/purchase of setup). Am interested in utilizing the Fluval Biomax material u referenced, but not sure it could be adapted to the apparatus i’m using—on the other hand, i’ve got several fine mesh bags (what i use for the zeolite, purigen, etc.):
could i slip some of those cylindrical pellets into one of those mesh bags in place of one or both filter cartridges?

As u’ll see, the filtration unit is designed to hold 2 cartridges, & each cartridge has different properties. As a novice i assumed it’s ‘necessary’, or at least more advantageous, to use the 2 types in unison, but after what u’ve shared (particularly re zeolite) my certainty has bitten the dust☹️

Toward the end of January is when i overdid it w/the cleaning routine: did both significant (50%-plus) h2o change AND cartridge change (although i only switched out ONE of the cartridges—& was hoping to switch out the other one—which has been installed for over 3mos—at the close of Feb: ~1mo later.).

I agree that my h2o testing frequency is over the top🤦🏻 Thing is, the setup is very young—going on 4mos—& stabilizing the readings has been a helluva challenge! I’ve only recently achieved the current ‘relatively healthy’ status.
Today the levels were ok, but i’m worried: nitrite & ammonia, ‘0’, but nitrate rose overnight from 5-10ppm☹️
I’ve seen differing assessments of this level—many considering it non-threatening—however, i’m concerned about ever achieving the ‘ideal’ of 0 nitrate, & what options do i have beyond frequent h2o changes?
The plants r healthy/growing—i don’t overfeed & the bottom feeding crew is at it round the clock! Very frustrated😵‍💫🤔
 

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Zero nitrate isn't the goal. The goal is to control nitrate to an acceptable level.

If you want to achieve zero nitrate that's going to take a bit of a rethink.

You could go back to your chemical media. Empty out the filter, fill it with media bags full of zeolite or other ammonia similiar absorbing media. Your aquarium won't cycle, but the chemical media will do the work. Replace the zeolite every couple of weeks to ensure it never expires. Or get a bigger filter, let it cycle, but the bigger filter would also have capacity to include some nitrate absorbing media. Replace the nitrate absorbing media whenever nitrate starts to show up in your testing. Not the way I'd do it, it solves an issue that doesn't need solving, and would probably cause other issues.

Or you could minimise the bioload, increase the natural nitrate absorbers. So double the aquarium size, half the number of fish, add nutrient hungry plants. You would get much lower nitrate levels this way, possibly zero.

As it stands a 5g aquarium with a betta, hillstream loach and 2 mystery snails is heavily stocked. The amount of waste they produce in proportion to the water volume is going to be high. I would expect a water change schedule of half the water once a week is going to keep you at the higher end of that 40ppm acceptable nitrate level. Nitrate increasing by 5 to 10ppm per day is what I would expect. With your current set up, if you wanted to keep nitrate more towards the 20ppm level you would probably need 2 or 3 water changes per week.

1 betta and 1 mystery snail would be a more appropriate stocking level for a 5g aquarium. The hillstream loach is 2 to 3" at adult size, and that's too big for a 5g aquarium. A 5g aquarium doesn't give this fish enough space to swim around in, or enough volume to sufficiently dilute it's waste.

While plants are going to consume nitrate as its a source of nitrogen in aquariums, different plants take up different amounts of nitrate. Most commonly kept aquarium plants like your anubias and ferns are at the lower end of the spectrum for nutrient demands. They will take up some nitrate, but not enough to make any meaningful difference to your aquariums nitrate levels.

You can make keeping an aquarium as simple or as complex as you like, you seem to be going down the complex route. Cycle your aquarium, don't overstock it, make sure you have enough filtration and aeration, change a decent amount of water once a week. This will keep away 99% of any issues you might face.

Edit. Just to give you another source on your aquarium stock level. Aqadvisor says you are at 120% for a 5.5g aquarium. Aqadvisor is conservative, you can push the number by quite a lot. But it does show your stock level is on the heavy side. Expecting to keep a low level of nitrate in your circumstance is unrealistic.

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Your filter looks like a Marina Slim S10 hang on back filter. It looks a good filter for a 5g aquarium.

I found this video which does a very good job of setting up your filter.


They use seachem matrix which would be good as the media size is quite small, and will fit into the slim filter chamber nicely. If biomax will fit, that's good. Biohome biogravel would be an alternative to matrix. Look at what you can get that fits.

Don't change too much at once. Maybe add in one of the sponges, let that establish over a couple of weeks, replace one of the cartridges with a bag of media, give that a couple of weeks, add in the second sponge, give it a couple of weeks, replace the 2nd cartridge. Monitor water quality while you are making the adjustments and change water if you see ammonia or nitrite levels exceeding 0.25ppm. Try and replace whatever is currently in your filtration with new media slowly over a couple of months.
 
Your filter looks like a Marina Slim S10 hang on back filter. It looks a good filter for a 5g aquarium.

I found this video which does a very good job of setting up your filter.


They use seachem matrix which would be good as the media size is quite small, and will fit into the slim filter chamber nicely. If biomax will fit, that's good. Biohome biogravel would be an alternative to matrix. Look at what you can get that fits.

Don't change too much at once. Maybe add in one of the sponges, let that establish over a couple of weeks, replace one of the cartridges with a bag of media, give that a couple of weeks, add in the second sponge, give it a couple of weeks, replace the 2nd cartridge. Monitor water quality while you are making the adjustments and change water if you see ammonia or nitrite levels exceeding 0.25ppm. Try and replace whatever is currently in your filtration with new media slowly over a couple of months.
Good Evening, Aiken—sorry to be out of sync w/your timeframe—keep overlooking the 8hr difference🤦🏻 In any case, THANK YOU again for the stellar tutelage, which i’m attempting to adapt to my current setup.

The video u provided was truly spot-on as coincidentally, the demonstrator was using the exact filter my 5gal has. Before i watched the vid, i ordered (online, Amazon—photo below) some of the products u recommended—w/any luck i’ll receive them today.

Here’s where i need further guidance: i’d like to switch out one of the cartridges w/a pouch of Matrix; the cartridge in question has been in the unit for going on 4mos—would it be ok to do this? I have the cartridges intended for this filter, but u (your experience/knowledge) have convinced me that they don’t necessarily function as beneficially (to the tank-dwellers) as purported, & i’m trying to be on track to optimize their existence. Please advise on this point—i’m hoping to do this before month’s end. [You’ll see (photo) that my purchases include sponge.]

It’s very concerning that u think i have too many inhabitants for the 5gal—i thought i was being conservative/not overdoing it🤦🏻
Just goes to show ya!!!

Haven’t tested the h2o yet, today; yesterday, it remained stable: pH close to neutral, nitrite/ammonia 0—didn’t test the nitrate—will include today. If the new materials arrive today as expected, would it be better to introduce a pouch of Matrix, a bit of sponge, or just do a partial water change?

It will take serious (very very serious) rejigging of the human habitat to be able to accommodate/setup a 10gal, but i’m contemplating how i can pull that off—stay tuned on that point!!!

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The bio-carb cartridge contains a mix of carbon and what Marina calls "Ceramitek". The carbon will have stopped doing anything 2 or 3 months ago. The ceramitek is your biological media and is where your beneficial bacteria are growing. The floss on the outside is providing your mechanical filtration.

The bio-clear cartridge again contains the Ceramitek, but has zeolite in lieu of the carbon. Like the carbon in the bio-carb cartridge the zeolite stopped doing anything months ago. And the floss is providing mechanical filtration.

I think i have a few of those bio-carb cartridges because they go into a 10 litre aquarium I've got. While the Ceramitek is going to do a job, I don't think its going to do a very good job. Certainly the matrix is going to be better.

As per my post, I think its safer to do the bit of sponge in that chamber above the intake first, allow that to establish for a few weeks before removing one of the cartridges. Losing one of the cartridges will lose half your mechanical and biological filtration in one go, whereas getting the sponge in first will allow that biological bacteria to establish on the sponge before you remove any cartridge and provide you with improved mechanical filtration from the very beginning.

Ideally, once you remove the cartridge, cut it open, pick out the Ceramitek, and mix it with your new filter media. As long as you don't allow the Ceramitek to dry out for too long, you will be retaining the beneficial bacteria in your filtration and seeding the new filter media, giving it a headstart. This will actually be doing what the stability claims. When you open up the cartridge you will see how little filter media is in there compared to a bag of matrix.

As for your heavy stock, it's manageable. I'm just saying it's unrealistic to expect low nitrate and the hillstream loach is going to benefit from a bigger aquarium. As for a bigger aquarium, a standard 5.5g is 17" long and a standard 10g is 20" long. So 3" difference in length between the 2 based on standard dimensions. Not every aquarium is standard dimensions though.
 
The bio-carb cartridge contains a mix of carbon and what Marina calls "Ceramitek". The carbon will have stopped doing anything 2 or 3 months ago. The ceramitek is your biological media and is where your beneficial bacteria are growing. The floss on the outside is providing your mechanical filtration.

The bio-clear cartridge again contains the Ceramitek, but has zeolite in lieu of the carbon. Like the carbon in the bio-carb cartridge the zeolite stopped doing anything months ago. And the floss is providing mechanical filtration.

I think i have a few of those bio-carb cartridges because they go into a 10 litre aquarium I've got. While the Ceramitek is going to do a job, I don't think its going to do a very good job. Certainly the matrix is going to be better.

As per my post, I think its safer to do the bit of sponge in that chamber above the intake first, allow that to establish for a few weeks before removing one of the cartridges. Losing one of the cartridges will lose half your mechanical and biological filtration in one go, whereas getting the sponge in first will allow that biological bacteria to establish on the sponge before you remove any cartridge and provide you with improved mechanical filtration from the very beginning.

Ideally, once you remove the cartridge, cut it open, pick out the Ceramitek, and mix it with your new filter media. As long as you don't allow the Ceramitek to dry out for too long, you will be retaining the beneficial bacteria in your filtration and seeding the new filter media, giving it a headstart. This will actually be doing what the stability claims. When you open up the cartridge you will see how little filter media is in there compared to a bag of matrix.

As for your heavy stock, it's manageable. I'm just saying it's unrealistic to expect low nitrate and the hillstream loach is going to benefit from a bigger aquarium. As for a bigger aquarium, a standard 5.5g is 17" long and a standard 10g is 20" long. So 3" difference in length between the 2 based on standard dimensions. Not every aquarium is standard dimensions though.
Aiken, again terrific advice—will check in soon w/a more detailed response, but for the moment wanted to clarify re upsizing to a 10gal: the obstacle is the ‘real estate’ to setup a new tank, not that the tank itself would require space we can’t offer, but i’m determined to resolve this.
 
The bio-carb cartridge contains a mix of carbon and what Marina calls "Ceramitek". The carbon will have stopped doing anything 2 or 3 months ago. The ceramitek is your biological media and is where your beneficial bacteria are growing. The floss on the outside is providing your mechanical filtration.

The bio-clear cartridge again contains the Ceramitek, but has zeolite in lieu of the carbon. Like the carbon in the bio-carb cartridge the zeolite stopped doing anything months ago. And the floss is providing mechanical filtration.

I think i have a few of those bio-carb cartridges because they go into a 10 litre aquarium I've got. While the Ceramitek is going to do a job, I don't think its going to do a very good job. Certainly the matrix is going to be better.

As per my post, I think its safer to do the bit of sponge in that chamber above the intake first, allow that to establish for a few weeks before removing one of the cartridges. Losing one of the cartridges will lose half your mechanical and biological filtration in one go, whereas getting the sponge in first will allow that biological bacteria to establish on the sponge before you remove any cartridge and provide you with improved mechanical filtration from the very beginning.

Ideally, once you remove the cartridge, cut it open, pick out the Ceramitek, and mix it with your new filter media. As long as you don't allow the Ceramitek to dry out for too long, you will be retaining the beneficial bacteria in your filtration and seeding the new filter media, giving it a headstart. This will actually be doing what the stability claims. When you open up the cartridge you will see how little filter media is in there compared to a bag of matrix.

As for your heavy stock, it's manageable. I'm just saying it's unrealistic to expect low nitrate and the hillstream loach is going to benefit from a bigger aquarium. As for a bigger aquarium, a standard 5.5g is 17" long and a standard 10g is 20" long. So 3" difference in length between the 2 based on standard dimensions. Not every aquarium is standard dimensions though
Good evening, Aiken… Here’s what i did following on your recommendations…
Reminder: in addition to the floss cartridges (untouched today), i added 3 small pouches of filtration media to the Marina filter: 1, ~1tsp Purigen; 2, 2tbsp zeolite; 3, 2tbsp zeolite/carbon combo. These were last refreshed on Feb 17th.

Today, i removed the pouches containing purigen & zeolite/carbon—i left the pouch w/zeolite. I added 2 sponges (cut to size—photo of product attached): one located where the zeolite/carbon pouch was (above the pure zeolite pouch)—one located where the purigen pouch was (see photo showing location. Since this photo was shot i modified the pouches—smaller—& no strings hanging out of the filtration chamber).

I tested for everything following the h2o change (~30%)—everything was stable, including the nitrate, which was 10ppm😕, so how worried should i be? Should i reinstall a pouch of purigen, or do u consider that somewhat useless? Will retest later to see if miraculously the level has budged downward.

Please advise. THANK YOU

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Carbon and purigen are both pretty much doing the same thing. They both absorb some chemical impurities and heavy metals. In most aquariums they wouldn't be doing anything useful.

The chemicals that they absorb are generally organic compounds, and they also absorb chlorine. Organic compounds that might be present in an aquarium are tannins/ tannic acid, phenols and the active ingredient in many medications are organic.

Tannins/ tannic acid will get into your aquarium from driftwood, or botanical like Indian almond leafs, or if you are intensionally wanting tannins, peat moss. Tannins are going to discolouration the water, making it tea like, and as its an acid it will lower the pH. Tannins have antiseptic properties and are really healthy for fish to have in the water. Many fish come from areas with tannins naturally in the water. But many people don't like the appearance, so with new driftwood for example, they run carbon/ purigen to remove the tannins and keep the water clear. Once the tannins are leached out of the wood, could be a month could be years, you can stop using carbon/ purigen.

Phenols get into the water mainly through uneaten fish food and fish waste. They make the water smell. Carbon/ purigen will absorb the phenols and remove the smells. But regular water maintenance will remove the phenols with your water changes. Your water shouldn't smell if you do your maintenance.

Medications should be used to treat an illness and then use should be discontinued. If you need to medicate an aquarium, remove any carbon/ purigen or it will just get absorbed. Once your medication period is over, do water changes to remove the medication, and drop some carbon/ purigen into your filtration to remove any excess.

So all these reasons for using carbon/ purigen are temporary. Use it for its purpose when needed. Stop using it once it's done it's job.

As for removing chlorine and heavy metals your water conditioner should be doing this, and will do it better and quicker. Water conditioner works on contact, so it pretty much instant, whereas running it through carbon/ purigen relying on the water passing through your filter before the contaminants are removed.

Carbon is better at removing chlorine and heavy metals, whereas purigen is better at removing organic compounds. They both work by the contaminants getting trapped in micropore in the media, and once these pores are full, they obviously stop working. Carbon needs throwing away and replacing, whereas purigen can be recharged by soaking it in a bleach solution and reused. Purigen is the better product, but is more expensive.

These products usually last a few weeks, but in your case you are using spoonfuls. That's might only be enough to be effective for a few days, and your filter isn't really big enough to hold enough mechanical and biological media with enough room left over to hold chemical media as well.

There is a misunderstanding that these products help with nitrogen compounds found in the water like ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. These aren't organic and will not be removed by carbon or purigen. If your nitrate is going down that indeed would be miraculous as that's not how it works. If that does happen it's going to be down inaccuracy in your testing. Nitrate tests are notoriously inaccurate as so many other contaminants can cause false readings. Even professional laboratory testing struggle to get accurate nitrate tests. You need to stop fixating on test result numbers. You have a home test kit. Is you ammonia and nitrite zero? Is your nitrate high or low? That's pretty much all you get from them.

As said I would set up the filter exactly as the video, and gradually get there over a couple of months. While adjusting your filter, test water daily and change half the water if you see ammonia or nitrite. At the end of a week, if you haven't needed to change water, change half anyway. If you can't keep nitrate below 40ppm with a 50% weekly water change, you need a bigger aquarium or reduce the fish, or you may be overfeeding.
 
Carbon and purigen are both pretty much doing the same thing. They both absorb some chemical impurities and heavy metals. In most aquariums they wouldn't be doing anything useful.

The chemicals that they absorb are generally organic compounds, and they also absorb chlorine. Organic compounds that might be present in an aquarium are tannins/ tannic acid, phenols and the active ingredient in many medications are organic.

Tannins/ tannic acid will get into your aquarium from driftwood, or botanical like Indian almond leafs, or if you are intensionally wanting tannins, peat moss. Tannins are going to discolouration the water, making it tea like, and as its an acid it will lower the pH. Tannins have antiseptic properties and are really healthy for fish to have in the water. Many fish come from areas with tannins naturally in the water. But many people don't like the appearance, so with new driftwood for example, they run carbon/ purigen to remove the tannins and keep the water clear. Once the tannins are leached out of the wood, could be a month could be years, you can stop using carbon/ purigen.

Phenols get into the water mainly through uneaten fish food and fish waste. They make the water smell. Carbon/ purigen will absorb the phenols and remove the smells. But regular water maintenance will remove the phenols with your water changes. Your water shouldn't smell if you do your maintenance.

Medications should be used to treat an illness and then use should be discontinued. If you need to medicate an aquarium, remove any carbon/ purigen or it will just get absorbed. Once your medication period is over, do water changes to remove the medication, and drop some carbon/ purigen into your filtration to remove any excess.

So all these reasons for using carbon/ purigen are temporary. Use it for its purpose when needed. Stop using it once it's done it's job.

As for removing chlorine and heavy metals your water conditioner should be doing this, and will do it better and quicker. Water conditioner works on contact, so it pretty much instant, whereas running it through carbon/ purigen relying on the water passing through your filter before the contaminants are removed.

Carbon is better at removing chlorine and heavy metals, whereas purigen is better at removing organic compounds. They both work by the contaminants getting trapped in micropore in the media, and once these pores are full, they obviously stop working. Carbon needs throwing away and replacing, whereas purigen can be recharged by soaking it in a bleach solution and reused. Purigen is the better product, but is more expensive.

These products usually last a few weeks, but in your case you are using spoonfuls. That's might only be enough to be effective for a few days, and your filter isn't really big enough to hold enough mechanical and biological media with enough room left over to hold chemical media as well.

There is a misunderstanding that these products help with nitrogen compounds found in the water like ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. These aren't organic and will not be removed by carbon or purigen. If your nitrate is going down that indeed would be miraculous as that's not how it works. If that does happen it's going to be down inaccuracy in your testing. Nitrate tests are notoriously inaccurate as so many other contaminants can cause false readings. Even professional laboratory testing struggle to get accurate nitrate tests. You need to stop fixating on test result numbers. You have a home test kit. Is you ammonia and nitrite zero? Is your nitrate high or low? That's pretty much all you get from them.

As said I would set up the filter exactly as the video, and gradually get there over a couple of months. While adjusting your filter, test water daily and change half the water if you see ammonia or nitrite. At the end of a week, if you haven't needed to change water, change half anyway. If you can't keep nitrate below 40ppm with a 50% weekly water change, you need a bigger aquarium or reduce the fish, or you may be overfeeding.
Good evening, Aiken… Thanks for another replete response.
Today’s testing yielded consistent results:
pH a bit above neutral, nitrite/ammonia ‘0’, nitrate looks to be 20ppm.

I’m fairly confident i don’t overfeed—if u disagree, please don’t hesitate to inform me. I’ve attached a photo of the type of food i offer (w/a Bic pen point for size reference).

I offer the minuscule pellets usually 1ce, sometimes 2ce/day to the betta; the pellets (5-7) r offered 1 at a time—i immediately siphon out any that he misses—sometimes they drift, hopefully to be suctioned by the bottom feeders—but mostly they’re immediately eaten or removed (by me) when spotted.

I offer the bottom feeders 1/2 a IMG_1180.jpegwafer every other day for nutritional supplementation. The loach & snails go at it for several hrs, then i remove residual.

I’m determined to setup a 10gal—i’ve determined a way to make it work w/the obstacles/limitations i referenced. In the meantime I’ll continue fanatic attention to the 5gal.

One final Q: unless the nitrate climbs above 20ppm, is a weekly water change adequate?

TY✨
 
Id say thats a bit too much for a betta. 6 pellets a day over a couple of feedings. If there is uneaten food after 3 minutes you are feeding too much. A bettas stomach is about the size of its eye to give you a visual clue as to how much food to feed.

The bettas food isn't the reason your nitrate is rising though. Anything uneaten will get picked up by the loach or snails, but you can visually see the algae wafer is going to put much more waste into the water than the pellets. And that's not to say you are overfeeding, that's just how much food they eat, and why these vegetarian eaters need bigger aquariums to dilute the waste more.

I would look at giving your fish and snails a bit more variety in their diets. The loach and snails would benefit from some fresh veggies. In particular the snails could do with some calcium in their diet, so a slice of cucumber or zucchini boiled for 30 seconds, remove the skin, attach a veggie clip to it to weigh it down or stick a fork through it. Drop it in the aquarium, remove it again after a few hours so it doesn't go bad. See what veggies they will eat. The only thing I couldn't get my apple snail to eat was carrot (and that included my betta, which the apple snail killed and ate). The betta would benefit from some live food, like brine shrimp or daphnia. There are freeze dried brine shrimp and daphnia too if you didn't want to do live food, but bettas are predators so it would give him some engagement to catch and eat his own food.
 
Id say thats a bit too much for a betta. 6 pellets a day over a couple of feedings. If there is uneaten food after 3 minutes you are feeding too much. A bettas stomach is about the size of its eye to give you a visual clue as to how much food to feed.

The bettas food isn't the reason your nitrate is rising though. Anything uneaten will get picked up by the loach or snails, but you can visually see the algae wafer is going to put much more waste into the water than the pellets. And that's not to say you are overfeeding, that's just how much food they eat, and why these vegetarian eaters need bigger aquariums to dilute the waste more.

I would look at giving your fish and snails a bit more variety in their diets. The loach and snails would benefit from some fresh veggies. In particular the snails could do with some calcium in their diet, so a slice of cucumber or zucchini boiled for 30 seconds, remove the skin, attach a veggie clip to it to weigh it down or stick a fork through it. Drop it in the aquarium, remove it again after a few hours so it doesn't go bad. See what veggies they will eat. The only thing I couldn't get my apple snail to eat was carrot (and that included my betta, which the apple snail killed and ate). The betta would benefit from some live food, like brine shrimp or daphnia. There are freeze dried brine shrimp and daphnia too if you didn't want to do live food, but bettas are predators so it would give him some engagement to catch and eat his own food.
Hello Aiken… Great tip re alternative food sources for the different species—i will follow on your recommendations.

I have something noteworthy to report re the use of certain purportedly bad condition rectifying products, notably Seachem’s Purigen.

So i did a water change 2 days ago (Weds), following which, on that day & the following day the nitrate level was up to 20ppm. I’d also made some changes to the filtration setup:
I added a couple of sponges in place of, respectively, a pouch of zeolite/carbon & a pouch of purigen. I left the 2 filtration cartridges & a pouch of pure zeolite.

The nitrate was the highest it’s been, so i decided to experiment, figuring the worst outcome would be ‘no change’: i reintroduced a pouch of purigen.

When i tested for nitrate today—approx. 16hrs after resuming purigen use—the reading was down to 5ppm, so there ‘appears’ to be a direct correlation between reintroducing the purigen & the drop in nitrate.

I retested 12hrs later—the nitrate had risen, but was still way below 20ppm: appears between 5-10ppm. I wonder if adding another pouch of the purigen would have further impact, but i’m leaving ‘well enough alone’ for the moment.

Since the 20ppm spike, there’s something off w/the loach—i’m wondering if it’s due to the species’ sensitivity to nitrates. From the get-go, this guy has been a fireplug—bounding around the tank eating like a wee piglet.

Following the water change on Weds, he was gorging on various algae coated plants & other surfaces, but hasn’t eaten further for perhaps 36hrs.

Apart from his ‘fast’, there’s no blatant appearance of distress—no rapid gill motion—no bouncing off the walls of the aquarium—no pathological changes in colouration.

If there hadn’t been the shift in eating habits, i’d say his appearance is fine, but there has to be a basis for this, & needless to say i hope i don’t lose him. The only direct correlation is the recent water change & change of filtration components. Any ideas?
 
As said if your nitrate is going down without a water change then it is down to inaccuracy in the water test.

So many things can effect nitrate readings. Water conditioners can effect the nitrate test. Nitrite can effect the nitrate test. Maybe the purigen is absorbing whatever caused a misread. Maybe doing the water test a few days after a water change when the water conditioner is no longer present caused the change. But the nitrate levels aren't going down, purigen simply doesnt work like that.

There are numerous reasons why your high nitrate test might be wrong, or your lower nitrate test might be wrong. It's just not a reliable test.
 
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