I'm Gonna Do It!!!! Drill!!!

[sumphead]

OK the only thing that can stop me now is a stern warning from my friends here on AA. I'm going to drill my 72G Bow. I contacted all glass and made SURE only the bottom was tempered. I got a circle glass cutter. WISH ME LUCK!

Now for the ???

-is an inch and a half too big or big enough (i plan two holes drain and return)

-anyone know the GPH flow through that?

-would you go 1" to ensure stabilty of the back wall?

waiting patiently
R-

 

[peterp]

Oh man that is scarryyyyyy

I'd head over to a large fs with a small tape meassure and see if I could get some measurements of one of their pre-drilled tanks if they have any

I've been over to mine a few times to measure tank sizes & stand & hood & lighting sizes for a planned "future" installation.
They don't seem to mind so long as you don't start disassembling things in the store.

 

[fishfreek]

Do you know what size of bulkhead you intend to put in those holes? That will govern how big the hole needs to be.

For example according to the bulkheads that marinedepot.com sells a 1" bulkhead needs a 1 3/4" hole. A 3/4" bulkhead needs a 1 1/2" hole.

http://www.marinedepot.com/a_ft_2.asp?CartId=#bh

See above link for more information.

Good luck in cutting the glass on the 75 gal that must be close to 1/2 if not 3/4" thick with a scoring style glass cutter.

Do you intend to have two drains? Do you intend to have holes for your return or do you plan on plumbing your return above the tank.

It sounds like you might need to plan this out a little more first. How are you going to keep fish from getting taken into the drain lines? WIll you use a simple screen or cone over the hole or will you do an internal overflow with acrylic?

 

[alrmc4]

good luck my fingers and toes are crossed for you

 

[sumphead]

Thanks so much guys. I am planning and planning and planning...

...I want at least a one inch bulkhead. I plan on converting a cone off of a pengiun 330 to prevent suckage (hehehe) of critters. a returm hole as well.

it seems to be a 1/4 inch thick glass. i also plan on placing a piece of 1/8 plexi as a buffer under the fitting against the glass.. sound good?

R-

 

[sumphead]

Saturday morning bump! Need all the help I can get. And now placing on hold until I've seen a 48" dank with the back drilled.

 

[justDIY]

ok, so this hole - how are you making it again?

are you using a water-cooled diamond+carbide drill bit?

 

[sumphead]

No, it's actually a circle class cutter. It can be attached one of two ways; either drill a miniscule hole with a diamond tip on a dremel or with a small tight suction cup. It has an arm on a swivel that rotates 360 around the central pivot with an extendable diamond cutter. Set it up and spin it 'till it cuts through. I ran a trial on a relatively thin piece of glass from an old picture frame. Cut like buttah' perfect circle. As for the bracing I mentioned I intend if all goes well to support the entire back wall (decision after embracing fear) with 1/8 plexi and attach it with silicone and under the bulkhead.

Still pondering...

Thanks yet again,
R-

 

[Guest]

As for the bracing I mentioned I intend if all goes well to support the entire back wall (decision after embracing fear) with 1/8 plexi and attach it with silicone and under the bulkhead.

Bracing What? I don't understand, Are you talking about as you cut the hole? or after... If after, I would say definately overkill.. It will be just as strong cut as it would be whole..

 

[peterp]

The more I thnk about it, IMHO I think you would be much better off to take the tank to a aquarium shop that has the proper tools to drill glass. They will charge a bit but a lot less than a new 72 gal bowfront.

We cut a lot of glass but it is all straight cuts, you put the glass in the Fletcher cutter pull the handle across the glass to score it and wack the side you don't want to keep.
The thought to scoring a tank bottom and trying to wack the little circle scares me quite a bit. Cuts are usually predictable but sometimes the wrong side fractures into little pieces and that would totally ruin the tank.

Also from what I have seen glass likes to break along mostly straight lines, if the break dosen't follow your score and heads off on its own....

I agree with JustDYI, if you don't have the proper large 1-1/2 or 2 inch cooled diamond+carbide bit don't try it.

 

[peterp]

Hum Reefnewb looks like you have a different type of cutter than I am used to.
So no idea on what it will do

 

[justDIY]

glass store here charges $8 to $15 a hole depending on the size you want them

I really worry about scoring a circle in a piece of glass that is 1/4" thick and then tapping out the center.

maybe you should get a small scrap of 1/4" glass from the hardware store and try it that way first.

 

[sumphead]

All valid worries that I indeed share. And I cannot be thankful enough for all the support here. Believe me I am INDEED apprehensive. I will get a scrap of the same depth or thicker even and attempt it again.

Again to clarify; the holes will be high on the back of the tank. also the wholes would be approx. 44" apart. One for a drain and one for a return. The plexi I spoke of was to be on the back outside of the tank to cover the entire back with matching holes simply to "thicken the back wall to ensure strength as my biggest fear after actual drilling/cuting is having the back blow out because if weakened integrity with the wieght of water. Still overkill? -also I could use colored plexi or even paint it for that matter for a solid background.

Next steps:

-get a quote to have it done!

-attempt it a few more times on test sheets.

I'll post my progress and probably a few pictures in a day or two.

Thanks again

 

[Guest]

The plexi I spoke of was to be on the back outside of the tank to cover the entire back with matching holes simply to "thicken the back wall to ensure strength as my biggest fear after actual drilling/cuting is having the back blow out because if weakened integrity with the wieght of water. Still overkill?

Well, who knows, if it will make you feel better, ok, however, many tanks are drilled like that and also having the bottoms drilled. The Bottom holds a lot more weight than the overflows will ever produce on the sides as well as water weight.. Just seemed like another leak point to me in the future silicone and plexi do not mix well...... IMO...

 

[shawmutt]

hmm...$15 dollars for each hole...$1200+ for a new tank if it cracks. It seems like a no brainer to me. I have never drilled a tank, but I did work with stained glass some years ago, and the tool you are talking about sounds like a glass scorer...not a glass cutter. What is does is score, or cut a groove, in the glass, and by tapping the glass after you score it you are making a controlled break along the score. Considering that about 10% of the time I tapped the glass, the whole piece broke, I would never recommend using it on such an expensive tank. IMO, if you spent the money on the tank, you should spend the money on a professional to cut your holes. I really don't mean to sound harsh, I just would really hate for your next post to be about how the tank cracked.

 

[loganj]

Drilling the glass will not affect it's integrity unless it's tempered glass. If it's tempered, forget drilling it...can't be done. Aquatic Ecosystems has the bits, dams, and abrasive for reasonable prices. I believe their website is www.aquaticeco.com . Their phone # is 1-877-347-4788.
I would not attempt to score the glass and pop it out...I just don't think that is going to work out well. JMHO. BTW, you'll need a drill press to drill it should you decide to go that route...a hand drill won't do it.

 

[Calvin]

SO!!!! What did you decide?? Did you have it drilled? Try it yourself? Or use a hunging ovrflow??? We've got to know.

 

[kribbz]

i drilled my 10 gallon myself. which is in no way a comparison to what you are about to attempt but i thought it was pretty easy. i used the diamond tipped bit and dam that logan spoke about. my lfs had bits for people to rent. my holes were two 1 1/8" holes for overflows and it works out well. the only thing is to drill through 1/4" sheet of glass it took about 20 minutes. you have to remember to place equal pressure on the bit at all times. actually towards the end of the process you should decrease the pressure because the glass gets thinner and thinner. and i can pretty much garuntee that you will not have a clean hole. there are always little pieces the break at the end no matter how hard you try. IMHO i would not even attempt to score and break the holes becuase after drilling one i can honestly say when you hit that circle i think the only thing it is gonna do is crack the entire side of the tank.

 

[sumphead]

My tank in currently sitting in a local glass shop. I decided on 1'" drains so had to go with a 1 3/4" hole for the bulkhead room. After looking into it and testing my little cutter on a 1/4" piece of scrap that professional is the only way to go for. It is costing me $20 a hole, but well worth the piece of mind. I will post pictures as soon as I can get it back. It has taken longer than I expected, but I am patient.

Thanks for checking up!
R-

 

[kribbz]

good choice man. can't wait to see pics.