Nitrate poisoning and I'm desperate to save my fish!!!! Please help...

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Okay. So here's what I did...

30% water change, replaced the carbon filter with a new one. Did NOT dose the tank again with General Cure ;) per your instructions. Regarding the epsom salt....... you might yell at me this time.....yikes. I got scared and ended up putting 3 tablespoons instead of 5 (Or would I have needed 6? I'm still confused due to what I asked you about the bow-front feature). And I diluted the salt mostly, before adding it slowly to the water. Because people wrote scary stuff online. I shouldn't be reading stuff online except right here, while speaking to the expert! I know, I know.

Questions:
1) Will the 3 tablespoons potentially make the difference? Or it's too diluted?
2) how long do we wait and monitor to start seeing a difference hopefully? Someone wrote that for constipation it could take 10 days or so. (again, that's just online stuff)
3) I will check my nitrate levels tomorrow, but I'm guessing it's gonna be around 30 or 35. So the question is how often to do a water change at this point. The salt is in there, and any medication residue.
4) Oh, also, I did not feed them today... someone was saying it's important not to feed them the first day you add the epsom salt.. are you in agreement with that?

At some point I'd love to discuss what I can potentially do with the nitrate problem to help it. I guess it doesn't have to be right now. Because doing water changes twice per week is something I can try to maintain but knowing my crazy schedule, there's definitely gonna be weeks when I will not be able to do that. Also, I hate doing anything in my tank because my silver dollars are such idiots (I love them, don't worry) because they get spooked so easily!!! Also, my blood parrot has been harassing them a lot lately. It really bothers me. Maybe cuz he's hungry..? Who knows.

Thanks!
Regarding the amount of water, yes, it's very possible that you only have 28 gallons of actual water because the tank does not hold 36 gallons of water when totally empty and then you have displacement from everything else that is in the tank now.
Regarding the " salt" you added, please refer to the Epsom salt as EPSOM SALT and not just salt because Aquarium salt, which is in fact a sodium salt, is not what you should be adding to the tank. If you added regular aquarium salt, you will need to do another water change tonight to lower the sodium level because that's too much you added. The correct full dosage of Epsom Salt for 28 gallons of water would be 5 tablespoons + 1 1/2 teaspoons.

Regarding what you read online in other forums, I'm just going to say that if you want to listen to everything you read online, I refer you to the old saying " Too many cooks spoil the broth. " I will not compete with all the " online experts" out there. They are speaking about their fish and unless they are talking about an 8 or 9 year old Silver Dollar in too small of an aquarium, their advice could kill your fish just as fast as cure it. Unfortunately you have to be able to filter out what you read in order to determine if it applies to your situation. If you knew what to do, you wouldn't be looking it up online. Do you question every piece of advice your Dr tells you? I doubt it. Do you get more than one second opinion if you question your Dr's advice? Probably not. How many different opinions did you get from what you read online?

If you want to listen to me and try to get educated, I'm happy to work with you in the hopes that I can rectify a bad situation. If you are going to not follow my instructions, please don't waste my time which could be used to help someone else. I am not retired so my time for online work is very limited.

If you'd like to continue, add the remaining missing dose of epsom salt, It needs to be present in the water for 7-10 days as I previously wrote. Also as I previously wrote, IF you need to do a water change before the 7-10 days, add back more epsom salt to the water you are adding back to the tank. I suggest you change water in multiples of 5 gallons so that you know how many tablespoons of Epsom Salt to replace. Don't make it complicated on yourself. As for how often to change water, it's all going to depend on your readings. It doesn't matter if it's every 3 rd day or 2nd day or every day, change the water to keep the nitrate level as low as possible.

As for the feeding, why most people use Epsom salt for a constipated fish is because the fish have stopped eating. That's not your case. Feed the poor starving fish. That means the parrot too.

As for controlling the nitrates so you don't have to change so much water so frequently, get a bigger tank so there's more water which will increase the amount of time between water changes. Other than that, there are items that are supposed to absorb nitrates but due to your situation, you will most likely spend a fortune on them because they will probably need to be replaced weekly due to the amount of waste your fish will produce so that they are healthy. You don't starve fish to reduce nitrates. Another option since you can't use live plants which use nitrates, is to add a sump to your existing setup where you can grow these nitrate absorbing plants. That involves another tank, plumbing, pumps and lighting. It's your money.
 
Regarding the amount of water, yes, it's very possible that you only have 28 gallons of actual water because the tank does not hold 36 gallons of water when totally empty and then you have displacement from everything else that is in the tank now.
Regarding the " salt" you added, please refer to the Epsom salt as EPSOM SALT and not just salt because Aquarium salt, which is in fact a sodium salt, is not what you should be adding to the tank. If you added regular aquarium salt, you will need to do another water change tonight to lower the sodium level because that's too much you added. The correct full dosage of Epsom Salt for 28 gallons of water would be 5 tablespoons + 1 1/2 teaspoons.

Regarding what you read online in other forums, I'm just going to say that if you want to listen to everything you read online, I refer you to the old saying " Too many cooks spoil the broth. " I will not compete with all the " online experts" out there. They are speaking about their fish and unless they are talking about an 8 or 9 year old Silver Dollar in too small of an aquarium, their advice could kill your fish just as fast as cure it. Unfortunately you have to be able to filter out what you read in order to determine if it applies to your situation. If you knew what to do, you wouldn't be looking it up online. Do you question every piece of advice your Dr tells you? I doubt it. Do you get more than one second opinion if you question your Dr's advice? Probably not. How many different opinions did you get from what you read online?

If you want to listen to me and try to get educated, I'm happy to work with you in the hopes that I can rectify a bad situation. If you are going to not follow my instructions, please don't waste my time which could be used to help someone else. I am not retired so my time for online work is very limited.

If you'd like to continue, add the remaining missing dose of epsom salt, It needs to be present in the water for 7-10 days as I previously wrote. Also as I previously wrote, IF you need to do a water change before the 7-10 days, add back more epsom salt to the water you are adding back to the tank. I suggest you change water in multiples of 5 gallons so that you know how many tablespoons of Epsom Salt to replace. Don't make it complicated on yourself. As for how often to change water, it's all going to depend on your readings. It doesn't matter if it's every 3 rd day or 2nd day or every day, change the water to keep the nitrate level as low as possible.

As for the feeding, why most people use Epsom salt for a constipated fish is because the fish have stopped eating. That's not your case. Feed the poor starving fish. That means the parrot too.

As for controlling the nitrates so you don't have to change so much water so frequently, get a bigger tank so there's more water which will increase the amount of time between water changes. Other than that, there are items that are supposed to absorb nitrates but due to your situation, you will most likely spend a fortune on them because they will probably need to be replaced weekly due to the amount of waste your fish will produce so that they are healthy. You don't starve fish to reduce nitrates. Another option since you can't use live plants which use nitrates, is to add a sump to your existing setup where you can grow these nitrate absorbing plants. That involves another tank, plumbing, pumps and lighting. It's your money.
No, no -- I am not going by what I'm reading online. So please don't feel like you are wasting your time!! I've been following your instructions every step. I dropped my LFS instructions, to follow yours. This stuff I read online is either what I've read in the past, or what curiosity causes me to do. I've always been afraid of adding stuff to my tank, so that's not something new. And in the past I've read that salts can do different stuff that could harm fish, so that's what stuck in my head. That's not something new; I read it a while back.

Regarding the salt - of course I only added Epsom Salt today, based on what you instructed me. I will now add the missing portion. Had you not made me realize there's a difference between the two "salts", I would have never known and would continue to add the Aquarium salt! G-d forbid. It's a lucky thing that I did not listen to what my LFS had told me because I was afraid of adding too much, so I had put less of a dose of the Aquarium salt (before I posted on this forum). That must have been about 1.5 weeks ago I'm guessing.

As for the nitrates. I literally can't get a bigger tank; I have nowhere to put it. :( :( No space in my house. I wish I do. So I must find a way to manage it somehow. I wish I can put live plants, but as you know the silver dollars would devour it all within a week. I was wondering if I should net them (the plants) or something? I don't know if that even makes sense. Are there specific plants that are good for absorbing nitrates? And is there another idea other than the "sump" idea? Because that's also something I'm not able to do (spacewise, expense, etc) I did put something into the tank that's meant to absorb nitrates (I could check the bag to tell you the brand) but I wonder how much good it does. Does it? I checked it today when I replaced my carbon filter and it still appeared white which I guess means it's not "used up" yet. And I placed it in probably at least 2 weeks ago, maybe more. Maybe 3 or something like that. Should I tell you the brand? And in the meantime, it's a very good idea to do water changes in increments of 5 gal so I know how much salt to replace. Thanks for simplifying it for me in my mind.

Thank you so much again for all the time you're giving me. I really, really appreciate it and I'm depending on what you're telling me, and I'm following it. I wouldn't know what to do at this point anymore so I wanna make sure I'm doing whatever I can.

Oh, one more thing. Since the epsom salt is a relaxant, should I expect to see more relaxed/less active behavior in my fish..? Or it's totally unrelated and is just internal? Just wanna know so that I don't get alarmed.

Also, I checked the brand of what I put into the filter for nitrates so I could show you. Here's a picture of the bag.
 

Attachments

  • aquavitro.JPG
    aquavitro.JPG
    21 KB · Views: 1
Last edited:
No, no -- I am not going by what I'm reading online. So please don't feel like you are wasting your time!! I've been following your instructions every step. I dropped my LFS instructions, to follow yours. This stuff I read online is either what I've read in the past, or what curiosity causes me to do. I've always been afraid of adding stuff to my tank, so that's not something new. And in the past I've read that salts can do different stuff that could harm fish, so that's what stuck in my head. That's not something new; I read it a while back.

Regarding the salt - of course I only added Epsom Salt today, based on what you instructed me. I will now add the missing portion. Had you not made me realize there's a difference between the two "salts", I would have never known and would continue to add the Aquarium salt! G-d forbid. It's a lucky thing that I did not listen to what my LFS had told me because I was afraid of adding too much, so I had put less of a dose of the Aquarium salt (before I posted on this forum). That must have been about 1.5 weeks ago I'm guessing.
You have to be careful when not adding proper dosages even if you are concerned. In some cases, that helps bad pathogens develop resistance to medications so this is why they put directions on boxes so you can follow the prescribed dosing. I wish Epsom salt had a non " salt" name because people confuse the two. They are very different products that do very different things. Unfortunately, Epsom Salt is easier to type than magnesium sulfate which is all Epsom salt is. ;)
As for the nitrates. I literally can't get a bigger tank; I have nowhere to put it. :( :( No space in my house. I wish I do. So I must find a way to manage it somehow. I wish I can put live plants, but as you know the silver dollars would devour it all within a week. I was wondering if I should net them (the plants) or something? I don't know if that even makes sense. Are there specific plants that are good for absorbing nitrates? And is there another idea other than the "sump" idea? Because that's also something I'm not able to do (spacewise, expense, etc) I did put something into the tank that's meant to absorb nitrates (I could check the bag to tell you the brand) but I wonder how much good it does. Does it? I checked it today when I replaced my carbon filter and it still appeared white which I guess means it's not "used up" yet. And I placed it in probably at least 2 weeks ago, maybe more. Maybe 3 or something like that.
You will know if it's working if it keeps your nitrates down. If it doesn't, it's not working or working well enough under your conditions. It's just wasting your money IMO. FYI, nothing is better for your fish than water changes. People hate doing them but Fish love having them. The more frequently you change the water, the less water you have to change each time to keep the water clean. It's just that plain and simple. The " shortcuts" just make things more complicated IMO. All my 82 tanks in the hatchery got 25% water changes daily for all the tanks except my breeders. They got 25% 3 times per week. You can see all the fish that produced in my albums. (y)
Should I tell you the brand? And in the meantime, it's a very good idea to do water changes in increments of 5 gal so I know how much salt to replace. Thanks for simplifying it for me in my mind.
Simplifying is how you get more done in less time. ;) It also takes the guesswork out of the equation.
Thank you so much again for all the time you're giving me. I really, really appreciate it and I'm depending on what you're telling me, and I'm following it. I wouldn't know what to do at this point anymore so I wanna make sure I'm doing whatever I can.
 
You will know if it's working if it keeps your nitrates down. If it doesn't, it's not working or working well enough under your conditions. It's just wasting your money IMO. FYI, nothing is better for your fish than water changes. People hate doing them but Fish love having them. The more frequently you change the water, the less water you have to change each time to keep the water clean. It's just that plain and simple. The " shortcuts" just make things more complicated IMO. All my 82 tanks in the hatchery got 25% water changes daily for all the tanks except my breeders. They got 25% 3 times per week. You can see all the fish that produced in my albums. (y)
EIGHTY TWO TANKS!!??? Wow. Where can I see pictures/videos of that??? Btw when I tried to check out your profile nothing showed up, I'm not sure why. But wow, you probably never had any health issues in your tanks, or did you? I'd love to hear more about this.

And regarding my tank.. you're saying that the more frequently I change the water, the less water I have to change each time to keep the water clean.. I'm thinking maybe I should keep a bucket near my aquarium, even a 2.5 or 5 gal and randomly do a bucket change. I generally use a long tube and change 30% at a time.. maybe smaller amounts more frequently would do at least as good a job, if not better?
 
Simplifying is how you get more done in less time. ;) It also takes the guesswork out of the equation.
Yes! Very true. Which is why I appreciate that you simplified it for me ;) There's so much detail and I would have been clueless as to how I'm gonna figure out the details of replacing the Epsom Salt, etc.
 
You have to be careful when not adding proper dosages even if you are concerned. In some cases, that helps bad pathogens develop resistance to medications so this is why they put directions on boxes so you can follow the prescribed dosing.
That's why I was worried that I did the water change between the two doses (per my LFS advice). But I followed what you told me and hopefully things will be perfectly fine. Now let's watch them for the next 7-10 days! I hope I won't have to give the medicated food; would be amazing if the problem clears up.
 
Oh, one more thing. Since the epsom salt is a relaxant, should I expect to see more relaxed/less active behavior in my fish..? Or it's totally unrelated and is just internal? Just wanna know so that I don't get alarmed.
What about this? (above) I just wanna know if the epsom salt affects fish liveliness or totally not (so I don't worry for nothing)
 
EIGHTY TWO TANKS!!??? Wow. Where can I see pictures/videos of that??? Btw when I tried to check out your profile nothing showed up, I'm not sure why. But wow, you probably never had any health issues in your tanks, or did you? I'd love to hear more about this.

And regarding my tank.. you're saying that the more frequently I change the water, the less water I have to change each time to keep the water clean.. I'm thinking maybe I should keep a bucket near my aquarium, even a 2.5 or 5 gal and randomly do a bucket change. I generally use a long tube and change 30% at a time.. maybe smaller amounts more frequently would do at least as good a job, if not better?
This is a link to my media page Andy Sager All my available pics are in there.
If you go to my profile, you click on the " about" tab in the middle of the page.

As for changing water frequently, you have to get your nitrates under control first then you can do the smaller amounts more frequently. That doesn't mean that you don't occasionally need to clean through the substrate ( a small section at a time) to keep things clean and fresh. Substrate that doesn't get cleaned gets bogged down and circulation becomes a problem. You just don't want to do large sections at one time so that you don't disrupt the biological filter bed within the substrate.
 
That's why I was worried that I did the water change between the two doses (per my LFS advice). But I followed what you told me and hopefully things will be perfectly fine. Now let's watch them for the next 7-10 days! I hope I won't have to give the medicated food; would be amazing if the problem clears up.
Lets hope so however, be prepared if it doesn't. That just means what is going on with the fish is anatomical and not disease or treatable medicinally.
 
Hi there, I hope you had a nice weekend!

Just touching base to keep you updated on what I'm doing so we could keep figuring out the right steps to do. Thanks!!

So on Thursday evening is when I did the 30% water change, put back my carbon filter and added the epsom salt. I hadn't fed them so I fed on Friday (I tried Thursday evening but they were in sleepy-mode so I removed the food). Friday I placed lettuce in the tank, and some parsley leaves and the silver dollars ate it with pretty good appetite. My female silver dollar (the one that has the problem) ate mostly from the parsley; she loves it - but she also ate from the deep green lettuce). I was relieved to see her eating. I then gave a few pellets to my blood parrot. A bit later I gave them all half a cube of blood worms (defrosted of course). Interestingly, they usually devour the whole cube (I feed it bits at a time) but this time I fed half and refroze the other half. (perhaps they're still adjusting their appetite...)

On Saturday I wasn't home so the poor guys didn't get food, but on Sunday (yesterday) I gave them lettuce again, and parsley leaves. I also gave some pellets. They all ate, although still not with their usual appetite. But I did not overfeed; I removed what I realized won't be eaten. Then I checked my nitrates and it was back up to at least 35ppm... so upsetting. So I did at 30% water change and replaced the missing epsom salt. I checked my nitrates this morning, it was probably around 30ppm. Maximum 35ppm but hopefully more like 30ppm (it's kind of hard to tell). That's fine, yes?

Today I fed them pellets at first, and all my fish came running for it and ate heartily, except my female one.. (the one with the problem). She might have taken one pellet but that's it. I'm a bit concerned because I'm hoping she's not stopping to eat; perhaps she was still full from yesterday's meal...?? So a bit later I placed parsley leaves into the tank since she loves it (I clip it to the wall). The other 2 silver dollars ate heartily. She didn't eat right away (which is not unusual; it sometimes take a few minutes for them to realize it's there) I did not stand there the whole time to watch, but she may have gone to eat some of it at some point. I hope that's the case. The thing is, my blood parrot is literally a dictator. She/he is chasing my silver dollars like a madman and not letting them get to the food properly. (which is why I sometimes leave the veggies clipped to the wall for a couple of hours because it takes them extra long to be able to get a bite out of it, and they eat it up or I remove the remaining) So that might be a big contribution to the female's lack of interest to go get it if she has to fight for it or get poked.. I hope that is the only or main reason. I noticed in general, I've been keeping the light in the room (and the overhead light) mostly shut during this entire situation for the past 1.5 months so that they go through the least stress possible till they're back to their proper health, so even when I put the food in, they might shy away at first but when I shut the light they instantly start swimming around comfortably and doing what they want, including getting their food despite my blood parrot's bossiness. In general, silver dollars are known to be extra shy and to like low light, or the dark.

I'm telling you all these details so I could give you as clear a picture as I can of what's going on in the tank.

My female silver dollar used to be my hardiest and strongest swimmer and eater. I am hoping she's not stopping to eat. The thought terrifies me. Also, I do not yet see a difference in her bloated area, although you did say the salt needs to be there at least 7-10 days so I'm guessing I shouldn't expect to see a difference yet. Just mentioning so you have that information. Today is technically only the 4th day that the epsom salt is in the tank. I don't believe the bulge has grown worse (I should really take a better look tomorrow). Otherwise she looks fine, and holds herself properly, and swims regularly, except she's not quite as active as she always was.. but perhaps that's expected at the moment? I'm concerned. But I hope I'm worrying for nothing. Ugh this whole thing makes me nauseous with aggravation.

I'm really hoping I'm doing everything I can, which is why I'm consulting with you every step of the way. I'd love to hear your input (and encouragement.. please.... I'm so saddened by all of this. For all these years I generally had such a healthy tank and I'm devastated at this situation). It literally has been making my mood so sad and down. Ugh.

Thank you so much!!

P.s. By the way my aquarium used to be so solid that multiple times throughout the years my silver dollars used to spawn and lay eggs, and I had another blood parrot and they both laid eggs as well --- and many eggs hatched!!! Which I know is highly unusual for blood parrots!! I even managed to keep one of the babies alive for more than a month!! I was so hopeful that it would survive. I don't know what happened, one morning I randomly found it dead. It was a sad day. But I did give myself some credit knowing that my fish must be super happy and well taken care of. Now I feel like a failure and like I let them down. I'm so sad. I miss those days.
 
Last edited:
The only thing more you can do is put a divider in the tank when you feed the Dollars so that the Parrot can't bother them. Yes, she may not feed as actively because of being harassed. Yes she may not be eating as much because the bump is pressing on her stomach inside causing it to feel full faster. Also, a fishes stomach is not much different than ours in that with a lack of food to keep it stretched, it shrinks. They had a long time with little food so it's going to take time to stretch it all out again if at all.

Sadly, this is the reality of keeping pets that do not live as long as we do. As they age, they are going to change. Their needs are going to change, their diet may change, etc. I would not be so concerned about her not eating pellets because of a couple of possible reasons and you said you needed to soften them to get her to eat them. If she stops feeding on the greens, that's a concern. That's a more natural diet. If she's eating and the bump is not getting bigger, that's a good sign. Just keep doing the water changes to keep those nitrates down. I'd take a nitrate test about an hour after you do the water change so that you use that number as a starting point. Test again daily or every other day to see how long it takes to get back up to that 30-35 PPM so you know how often you need to do water changes to keep them low. (y)
 
The only thing more you can do is put a divider in the tank when you feed the Dollars so that the Parrot can't bother them. Yes, she may not feed as actively because of being harassed. Yes she may not be eating as much because the bump is pressing on her stomach inside causing it to feel full faster. Also, a fishes stomach is not much different than ours in that with a lack of food to keep it stretched, it shrinks. They had a long time with little food so it's going to take time to stretch it all out again if at all.

Sadly, this is the reality of keeping pets that do not live as long as we do. As they age, they are going to change. Their needs are going to change, their diet may change, etc. I would not be so concerned about her not eating pellets because of a couple of possible reasons and you said you needed to soften them to get her to eat them. If she stops feeding on the greens, that's a concern. That's a more natural diet. If she's eating and the bump is not getting bigger, that's a good sign. Just keep doing the water changes to keep those nitrates down. I'd take a nitrate test about an hour after you do the water change so that you use that number as a starting point. Test again daily or every other day to see how long it takes to get back up to that 30-35 PPM so you know how often you need to do water changes to keep them low. (y)

Thank you for explaining everything. Sigh. I will keep trying my best to help them heal and get stronger. I was so happy to see the two silver dollars feeding today with so much appetite. I'm hoping for my female one, too. I'm guessing if you saw something wrong in my detailed update you would have told me, so hopefully I'm doing things okay, right?

Are you saying I need to get the nitrates to lower than 30ppm...? Or is 30ppm fine? I will monitor.

Also, what are your thoughts about the fact that we're still only on day 4 of the epsom salt.. can there still be hope it might be constipation and the bulge might go down..? And her appetite get better due to that? I'm gonna keep you posted if/when I see any change. Hopefully for the better.
 
Thank you for explaining everything. Sigh. I will keep trying my best to help them heal and get stronger. I was so happy to see the two silver dollars feeding today with so much appetite. I'm hoping for my female one, too. I'm guessing if you saw something wrong in my detailed update you would have told me, so hopefully I'm doing things okay, right?
Correct. Nothing wrong.
Are you saying I need to get the nitrates to lower than 30ppm...? Or is 30ppm fine? I will monitor.
Here's the deal with nitrates: They are an end product of a process. They serve absolutely no purpose for the fish. It's better that they aren't there at all unless it's a planted tank full of nitrate consuming plants. So considering that your fish showed signs of nitrate poisoning, the less of it in the water, the better. Look at it this way, if you had carbon monoxide poisoning, you need pure oxygen and clean air to recover from it. You wouldn't say that some carbon monoxide is okay as long as it is low enough to not poison you would you? In your case, substitute Nitrates for Carbon Monoxide in my example. The fish are better off without any of it so the lower you can get it through water changes, the better. The water changes are the pure oxygen and clean air for the fish.
Also, what are your thoughts about the fact that we're still only on day 4 of the epsom salt.. can there still be hope it might be constipation and the bulge might go down..? And her appetite get better due to that? I'm gonna keep you posted if/when I see any change. Hopefully for the better.
My thought on it only being day 4 is this: 4 is not 7-10 days. ;)
 
Correct. Nothing wrong.

Here's the deal with nitrates: They are an end product of a process. They serve absolutely no purpose for the fish. It's better that they aren't there at all unless it's a planted tank full of nitrate consuming plants. So considering that your fish showed signs of nitrate poisoning, the less of it in the water, the better. Look at it this way, if you had carbon monoxide poisoning, you need pure oxygen and clean air to recover from it. You wouldn't say that some carbon monoxide is okay as long as it is low enough to not poison you would you? In your case, substitute Nitrates for Carbon Monoxide in my example. The fish are better off without any of it so the lower you can get it through water changes, the better. The water changes are the pure oxygen and clean air for the fish.

My thought on it only being day 4 is this: 4 is not 7-10 days. ;)
Got it. So my question to you is, is it better that I do 30% every 2 days (I'd keep testing the nitrate levels and change water accordingly) or rather approx 15% daily till I get it low enough...? Supposedly it's not good to change large volume of water too often..? Or do you disagree with that, rather focus on the clean water aspect?

Also, you leave me somewhat hopeful that perhaps day 7 might yield better results than day 4... ;)

P.s. Earlier today I de-shelled frozen peas and it's now soaking in Garlic Guard so my fish have appetite to eat it tomorrow when I feed it to them. My female Silver Dollar never liked the peas, though. So if she doesn't touch it I'll put some parsley leaves in the tank.
 
Daily is fine. My tanks in the hatchery got a water change daily and it helps the fish grow. As for large water changes vs smaller ones, that depends on how different the new water is from the old water. Fish do not usually like drastic changes to the water. Doing large changes when the waters are similar is no problem. What happens tho is the people delay water changes to just do a large one down the road and then the new water is very different from the old water and that stresses out the fish which can lead to a whole host of disease issues. If you started out doing large volume water changes from the beginning and you were doing them weekly, chances are the new water and tank water would still be close to similar so not a problem. There's a misnomer that you are only changing water to reduce nitrates. You change water for a whole host of other reasons as well.
 
Hi there, so I did a 30% water change yesterday (Tuesday) late afternoon because I realized I need to bring my nitrates down more. It's interesting to observe the difference in my fish; they're definitely happier with the lower nitrates (duh!!). It's just hard to read so I never really know 100% where it's at (I use the API test tubes; I never use strips. But the color shades (or thickness of color) are so difficult to compare; one is quite similar to the other.)

Tomorrow I wanna test my water and see if I should do another 30% tomorrow, or on Friday. Or a 15% tomorrow and then more on Friday. Thing is, I wanna bring my nitrates lower (and of cours keep the water quality great).. I think my nitrates are at around 30 but I don't know. Because the color shade is not at 20ppm but rather at 30ppm, but the thickness of the color is soft like at 20-25ppm (am I being clear with explaining?)

Either way, my question to you also is, tomorrow night will be the end of the 7th day of the epsom salt being in the water. I'm guessing you'd say to keep it in for at least the 10 days? Just checking.

As for her bulge, I don't think I see any difference. I'll take a better look tomorrow.. but definitely no substantial difference. So odd!! She swims around properly, though (thank G-d!!). Her eating is as follows:

In general, my fish don't run to grab the food like they used to, but they come and eat. (Like you said, they're probably developing their appetite and re-experiencing feeding habits.) I noted something interesting which I wanna mention to you. One of my silver dollars seems to be the healthiest and may not have been affected that much by the nitrates; he has been eating strongly, grabbing the food and especially pellets if I give them. The other two silver dollars (the one that was curved and the one with the bulge) don't seem to have interest in the pellets. I'm wondering if the nitrates did that somehow; took away their appetite for that type of food. The female one hasn't come up for it at all. And she used to be the first one grabbing it like crazy. The male would take one or two and then kind of leave it alone. But, they do come for the vegetables. I put cucumber peels in my tank today, and although it took them a bit of time to "warm up" to it, they came to eat from it. My stupid bossy blood parrot harassed the heck out of them (guarding it as if he owns it) so they couldn't really eat in peace, but they did keep coming by until they finished it. Thank G-d. I was relieved to see she's coming to eat. (although like I mentioned, not nearly as much as she used to. Which really worries me, but I'm hopeful that she'll slowly get better).

So my question is, it's okay if they just eat greens, right? In the wild, that's what Silver Dollars do, from what I understand. I do wanna go back to the beginning of this chat and follow what you instructed me about buying the variety of foods/veggies (I haven't had the chance). Also, I think I'm gonna try to feed them the other half of the cube of frozen bloodworms that they hadn't eaten. (It's okay to use even if I refroze, right?)

Also, I'm wondering if you'd know how long it takes for fish to slowly gain their weight back as they start eating more. (Yeah I'm so anxious to see them nursed back to health. Although - patience is a virtue, they say!)

Gosh, it makes me so sad that this is what happened and how badly it affected their food intake and happiness. Please tell me I'm not a horrible, terrible person and fish owner :( I wish I realized certain things which could have avoided all of this. I'm kicking myself so much although I know I shouldn't...

Anything else I should be doing?

Thank you so much.
 
Hi there, so I did a 30% water change yesterday (Tuesday) late afternoon because I realized I need to bring my nitrates down more. It's interesting to observe the difference in my fish; they're definitely happier with the lower nitrates (duh!!). It's just hard to read so I never really know 100% where it's at (I use the API test tubes; I never use strips. But the color shades (or thickness of color) are so difficult to compare; one is quite similar to the other.)

Tomorrow I wanna test my water and see if I should do another 30% tomorrow, or on Friday. Or a 15% tomorrow and then more on Friday. Thing is, I wanna bring my nitrates lower (and of cours keep the water quality great).. I think my nitrates are at around 30 but I don't know. Because the color shade is not at 20ppm but rather at 30ppm, but the thickness of the color is soft like at 20-25ppm (am I being clear with explaining?)
While it's important to know approximately where the nitrate level is so that it doesn't get too high, the exact number is not as important as you are making it. It's not 0, that's what matters. You see the fish are better after the water changes so that's your sign. They will do better the lower you get the nitrates. You get the nitrates lower the fastest by doing water changes. The number one thing you need to always remember is that you have large fish in a small tank and that is a recipe for bad water. In order to keep the water from getting bad since you can't put them in a larger tank is to do more frequent water changes. Fish do appreciate water changes as they don't live in stagnant water so there is little to no harm in doing daily water changes.
Either way, my question to you also is, tomorrow night will be the end of the 7th day of the epsom salt being in the water. I'm guessing you'd say to keep it in for at least the 10 days? Just checking.
I'd leave it for the next 3 days but to be honest, at this point, it's pointing more towards this being an anatomical shift of an internal organ ( most likely the ovary) and you are going to have to get used to seeing the fish with a bump. If it were disease, it should have gotten worse by now. If it were a blockage, the fish should not be feeling well enough to want to eat so at this point ( after the next 3 days), you have done all that you are capable of doing. As I've said in previous posts, the next step is to place the fish under Veterinary care but my experience says that the final outcome will be anatomical and not worth the risk of surgery. The bump is obviously not effecting the fish's ability to eat so it looks like the bump bothers you more than the fish. That's on you to change. ;)
As for her bulge, I don't think I see any difference. I'll take a better look tomorrow.. but definitely no substantial difference. So odd!! She swims around properly, though (thank G-d!!). Her eating is as follows:

In general, my fish don't run to grab the food like they used to, but they come and eat. (Like you said, they're probably developing their appetite and re-experiencing feeding habits.) I noted something interesting which I wanna mention to you. One of my silver dollars seems to be the healthiest and may not have been affected that much by the nitrates; he has been eating strongly, grabbing the food and especially pellets if I give them. The other two silver dollars (the one that was curved and the one with the bulge) don't seem to have interest in the pellets. I'm wondering if the nitrates did that somehow; took away their appetite for that type of food. The female one hasn't come up for it at all. And she used to be the first one grabbing it like crazy. The male would take one or two and then kind of leave it alone. But, they do come for the vegetables. I put cucumber peels in my tank today, and although it took them a bit of time to "warm up" to it, they came to eat from it. My stupid bossy blood parrot harassed the heck out of them (guarding it as if he owns it) so they couldn't really eat in peace, but they did keep coming by until they finished it. Thank G-d. I was relieved to see she's coming to eat. (although like I mentioned, not nearly as much as she used to. Which really worries me, but I'm hopeful that she'll slowly get better).
Unless you remove or separate the Parrot with a divider, that behavior is not going to change so you have those 2 choices. If you want your Dollars to eat in peace, you HAVE to do one of those 2 things. As for the change in tastes for the fish, that happens. They either don't like the food(s) anymore or there are other reasons why they reject them. As long as they are eating something else, it's not the fish, it's the food. Give them something else to eat.
So my question is, it's okay if they just eat greens, right? In the wild, that's what Silver Dollars do, from what I understand. I do wanna go back to the beginning of this chat and follow what you instructed me about buying the variety of foods/veggies (I haven't had the chance). Also, I think I'm gonna try to feed them the other half of the cube of frozen bloodworms that they hadn't eaten. (It's okay to use even if I refroze, right?)
As long as the bloodworms do not get freezer burned, they should be good to feed however, in the future, I'd cut the cubes in half while they are frozen. I will add that if the fish do not eat the refrozen ones, I'd try a different cube as fish can smell and taste bad food better than we can see it. Silver Dollars are primarily vegetarians so a diet consisting of mostly vegetation is okay but it should also include some "meat" protein like Bloodworms and/or Daphnia and/or Brine shrimp. .
Also, I'm wondering if you'd know how long it takes for fish to slowly gain their weight back as they start eating more. (Yeah I'm so anxious to see them nursed back to health. Although - patience is a virtue, they say!)
There is no hard and fast timeline for this. The better the fish eat, the more weight they will gain. Keep in mind tho that as they get older, they may not gain weight at all. Older animals tend to just eat enough to stay alive, not to put on bulk. As your fish are geriatrics, that may become the case.
Gosh, it makes me so sad that this is what happened and how badly it affected their food intake and happiness. Please tell me I'm not a horrible, terrible person and fish owner :( I wish I realized certain things which could have avoided all of this. I'm kicking myself so much although I know I shouldn't...

Anything else I should be doing?
As with every hobby, learning everything you can about the hobby is the best way of being the most successful with it. Sadly, (imo) with the invent of the internet, there are a lot of people who share information and a bazillion groups but they often lack one major thing: They are not working with your water, your fish source or fish similar to yours. With tropical fish or any live animal, join a local fish club and attend meetings. Talk with people in the group as many will be working with the same water as you are, going to the same shops as you go to or have more experience than you have. There are 2 ways of learning: Learn from other people's mistakes or learning from your own mistakes. I'm not sure you will not find many who will agree that keeping Silver Dollars to full adult size in your sized tank is good. But here's the thing, it can be done but it will take a lot more work on your part ( and if the internet has showed us anything, it's that fish people are lazy and don't want to do the work :( ). You proved that you didn't do enough work because while you did get them to full size, the fish came down with nitrate poisoning so you did 90% of the work. The last 10 % tho could have killed the fish. Thankfully it didn't but you are paying a price for that. Learn from that mistake.
You can't change the past. Now you know you have to do water changes if you want healthy fish. If you want to do a no water change system, you are very restricted in what fish will do well in these kinds of systems. I've seen many " internet gurus" preaching the no water change systems but I've yet to see ANY of them tell the people the WHOLE story. There is even a gentleman who developed a whole filtering system so that you didn't need to change water. I saw his fish at a local fish auction. They were undersized for their age and colored artificially through foods. I was at a fellow hobbyist's house in another state who had gotten his fish and they too were undersized. I spoke with another fish wholesaler who was getting fish from this same gentleman and he said the same thing and stopped dealing with him. So I don't care if it's a planted tank, a fish only tank, a bare tank or whatever, if you don't change water and not add vitamins and feed the most nutritious diet, the fish will not grow well. There is a lot of "junk" out there in the fish world. It's up to the hobbyist to do their research so that they don't buy the junk. As the saying goes, "You get out of an item when you put into the item." So junk in gets you junk out. ( Oh look, I went off on a tangent. ;) ;) )
No, past what I've told you in this thread, there's nothing more you can or should do.
Thank you so much.
 
While it's important to know approximately where the nitrate level is so that it doesn't get too high, the exact number is not as important as you are making it. It's not 0, that's what matters. You see the fish are better after the water changes so that's your sign. They will do better the lower you get the nitrates. You get the nitrates lower the fastest by doing water changes. The number one thing you need to always remember is that you have large fish in a small tank and that is a recipe for bad water. In order to keep the water from getting bad since you can't put them in a larger tank is to do more frequent water changes. Fish do appreciate water changes as they don't live in stagnant water so there is little to no harm in doing daily water changes.
Hi, first I just wanna mention that when I don't reply right away it's not because I didn't see your message; it's because I can't reply through my phone (I gotta log into the forum and I keep forgetting to check my password lol) but I can see your response through my email notification. So I do check to see your responses, so that I know what to do, etc. But this explains my delay in responding.

Secondly, thanks for clarifying the above regarding nitrates. I will do a 30% water change tomorrow morning (wanted to do one tonight but I'm so afraid of stressing them out at this time and at night they are very sleepy). Once I get it down low enough, I'll try to do even a daily 5-10% water change.. to maintain good water quality and like you said, larger water changes take so much time so it's much easier to neglect doing them in a timely fashion...

I'd leave it for the next 3 days but to be honest, at this point, it's pointing more towards this being an anatomical shift of an internal organ ( most likely the ovary) and you are going to have to get used to seeing the fish with a bump.
Very interesting. I wouldn't have thought the ovary thing could even be a thing! So sad. But also, does this mean she could be okay and live this way? Just deformed? If this anatomical shift is not something I need to worry about, just look at, I can force myself to get used to it (while kicking myself every time) but at least I know she's fine.
If it were disease, it should have gotten worse by now. If it were a blockage, the fish should not be feeling well enough to want to eat so at this point ( after the next 3 days), you have done all that you are capable of doing. As I've said in previous posts, the next step is to place the fish under Veterinary care but my experience says that the final outcome will be anatomical and not worth the risk of surgery. The bump is obviously not effecting the fish's ability to eat so it looks like the bump bothers you more than the fish. That's on you to change. ;)
Okay so my question is, yes she is eating, but like I mentioned, not the way she used to. At all. But you're right that she's probably feeling fuller due to the bump, etc. She does come to the veggies when my blood parrot lets her.. she comes waaaayyy less than she used to, but she does come to eat. Like I mentioned, she was my strongest eater. But I'm gonna keep feeding veggies, and today she came to eat the blood worms so tomorrow morning I wanna try to feed them more of that. So.. that being said, even though she's eating so much less than she used to, you're saying that the fact that she even has appetite and comes to eat at all, that's a good sign? And potentially means there's probably no infection or stuff to worry about? Or constipation? Because I never tried giving her any medicated food.. which of course I don't want to do if I don't have to, or if you feel it's not something that can be medicated. So I'm just checking all these details with you.
Unless you remove or separate the Parrot with a divider, that behavior is not going to change so you have those 2 choices. If you want your Dollars to eat in peace, you HAVE to do one of those 2 things.
So I have an idea I'm gonna try before I try the divider idea. I hope it works. I ordered more food clips and I'm gonna clip 2 or 3 spots of vegetables instead of only one, so that when my blood parrot harasses one of them, the other one can feed on one of the other 2 spots where the vegetables are. Right now my parrot stands guard at that one feeding spot. Gosh, the dictatorship here! Lol. But honestly it's stressing me out like crazy when I see it because I want my silver dollars to be left alone and be able to get stronger peacefully. I'm hoping they're used to it and won't be affected by the harassment.

As for the change in tastes for the fish, that happens. They either don't like the food(s) anymore or there are other reasons why they reject them. As long as they are eating something else, it's not the fish, it's the food. Give them something else to eat.

As long as the bloodworms do not get freezer burned, they should be good to feed however, in the future, I'd cut the cubes in half while they are frozen. I will add that if the fish do not eat the refrozen ones, I'd try a different cube as fish can smell and taste bad food better than we can see it.
So interesting to know that fish can be so sensitive to detecting the freshness, etc of food!

There is no hard and fast timeline for this. The better the fish eat, the more weight they will gain. Keep in mind tho that as they get older, they may not gain weight at all. Older animals tend to just eat enough to stay alive, not to put on bulk. As your fish are geriatrics, that may become the case.
So... does this mean I shouldn't worry myself crazy when I see how skinny they are..? The one that's eating well is looking pretty good. Maybe he even gained a bit of weight. The other male is extremely skinny but is slowly eating more and more. And the female that's got the bulge is skinny other than the bulge.. (and before this she was such a beautiful, perfect shape and thickness :'( :'( I'm so upset Omg.) But should I not worry because as long as they're eating, they're sustaining themselves? My blood parrot is also eating less, strangely. But he's eating. and grabbing all the food. He loves peas actually. I should feed him that more often.
As with every hobby, learning everything you can about the hobby is the best way of being the most successful with it. Sadly, (imo) with the invent of the internet, there are a lot of people who share information and a bazillion groups but they often lack one major thing: They are not working with your water, your fish source or fish similar to yours. With tropical fish or any live animal, join a local fish club and attend meetings. Talk with people in the group as many will be working with the same water as you are, going to the same shops as you go to or have more experience than you have. There are 2 ways of learning: Learn from other people's mistakes or learning from your own mistakes. I'm not sure you will not find many who will agree that keeping Silver Dollars to full adult size in your sized tank is good. But here's the thing, it can be done but it will take a lot more work on your part ( and if the internet has showed us anything, it's that fish people are lazy and don't want to do the work :( ). You proved that you didn't do enough work because while you did get them to full size, the fish came down with nitrate poisoning so you did 90% of the work. The last 10 % tho could have killed the fish. Thankfully it didn't but you are paying a price for that. Learn from that mistake.
You can't change the past. Now you know you have to do water changes if you want healthy fish. If you want to do a no water change system, you are very restricted in what fish will do well in these kinds of systems. I've seen many " internet gurus" preaching the no water change systems but I've yet to see ANY of them tell the people the WHOLE story. There is even a gentleman who developed a whole filtering system so that you didn't need to change water. I saw his fish at a local fish auction. They were undersized for their age and colored artificially through foods. I was at a fellow hobbyist's house in another state who had gotten his fish and they too were undersized. I spoke with another fish wholesaler who was getting fish from this same gentleman and he said the same thing and stopped dealing with him. So I don't care if it's a planted tank, a fish only tank, a bare tank or whatever, if you don't change water and not add vitamins and feed the most nutritious diet, the fish will not grow well. There is a lot of "junk" out there in the fish world. It's up to the hobbyist to do their research so that they don't buy the junk. As the saying goes, "You get out of an item when you put into the item." So junk in gets you junk out. ( Oh look, I went off on a tangent. ;) ;) )
Go off on a tangent!! It's the best way to learn. I appreciate information and when you're in that zone, please don't hesitate. I wish I knew more before this happened. And hearing about your experience with others, etc, helps me gain knowledge and perspective. It's crazy what people say on the internet while they claim to be experts. In one of my searches (gosh I've forced myself to stop because it was driving me nuts and now that I have you to consult with, I'm focusing on what you're saying) there's a guy who advised someone to do 100% water changes daily!!! For some disease the fish had or something. Um!! Hello!! What about the whole bio-system?? I don't get it how people give such twisted advice. Let alone the no water change system.

You mention adding vitamins.... what do you mean by that...?? I didn't even know that exists. When I do a water change, I add prime to the water and then stability. It's been doing its job I guess... it's good stuff, right?

Also, how much of natural plants would I need in the tank to make a difference in keeping the nitrates low...? Would it be worth it for me to try and figure out a way to keep them in there, for instance like I mentioned netting them or something? Or am I making no sense... ? Meantime I'm gonna focus on my water changes. I'm just worried for those long weekends I might be away, or for times that I travel (I do travel from time to time and it could potentially be a full week away from home, maybe a bit more. Doesn't happen often, though. Just trying to figure things out in my head.

No, past what I've told you in this thread, there's nothing more you can or should do.
Okay.. It's good to know I've done whatever I needed to do. I'm so worried the bump shouldn't grow bigger, though. I'll keep you posted. Do I need to worry? Okay there's really no point in worrying right now. I'll keep putting in a prayer!
 
Last edited:
Hi, first I just wanna mention that when I don't reply right away it's not because I didn't see your message; it's because I can't reply through my phone (I gotta log into the forum and I keep forgetting to check my password lol) but I can see your response through my email notification. So I do check to see your responses, so that I know what to do, etc. But this explains my delay in responding.
TBH, I hadn't noticed. ;) I check the site 2 -3 times per day if I have the time. When I don't, it's usually at least once a day ( at lunch)
Secondly, thanks for clarifying the above regarding nitrates. I will do a 30% water change tomorrow morning (wanted to do one tonight but I'm so afraid of stressing them out at this time and at night they are very sleepy). Once I get it down low enough, I'll try to do even a daily 5-10% water change.. to maintain good water quality and like you said, larger water changes take so much time so it's much easier to neglect doing them in a timely fashion...
Clean water is the key to successful fish keeping.
Very interesting. I wouldn't have thought the ovary thing could even be a thing! So sad. But also, does this mean she could be okay and live this way? Just deformed? If this anatomical shift is not something I need to worry about, just look at, I can force myself to get used to it (while kicking myself every time) but at least I know she's fine.
Who knows why the body reacts the way it does. Case in point, I had an older woman friend who suddenly developed a " bump" in her abdomen. She was a skinny lady to begin with so it was very noticeable. She passed it off as getting older and didn't do anything about it until her next annual physical. At the physical they took an X-Ray and found an anomaly so they did an exploratory surgery. During the surgery they found she had grown a new lobe on her liver. THAT was the bump. So a body can do a number of things that are not usual or " normal". I'm not saying that this is what happened or is happening to this fish but only to show that " stuff happens." ;)
Okay so my question is, yes she is eating, but like I mentioned, not the way she used to. At all. But you're right that she's probably feeling fuller due to the bump, etc. She does come to the veggies when my blood parrot lets her.. she comes waaaayyy less than she used to, but she does come to eat. Like I mentioned, she was my strongest eater. But I'm gonna keep feeding veggies, and today she came to eat the blood worms so tomorrow morning I wanna try to feed them more of that. So.. that being said, even though she's eating so much less than she used to, you're saying that the fact that she even has appetite and comes to eat at all, that's a good sign? And potentially means there's probably no infection or stuff to worry about? Or constipation? Because I never tried giving her any medicated food.. which of course I don't want to do if I don't have to, or if you feel it's not something that can be medicated. So I'm just checking all these details with you.
What was and what is is not necessarily the same. As I've said before, when you have a poisoning, EVERYTHING changes. Poisoning effects the body, the brain, the entire body so you might as well forget about what used to be because there is no guarantee that what is now will be the same as before. Sick fish don't usually eat. Yours are eating so this is not a sickness. If the fish was constipated and eating, the bump would be getting bigger. You said it's not getting bigger so it's pretty safe to say that's not the issue. You can stop with the epsom salts. It will get diluted with every water change until it's no longer present. No need to get it all out at one time as you would with other medications.
So I have an idea I'm gonna try before I try the divider idea. I hope it works. I ordered more food clips and I'm gonna clip 2 or 3 spots of vegetables instead of only one, so that when my blood parrot harasses one of them, the other one can feed on one of the other 2 spots where the vegetables are. Right now my parrot stands guard at that one feeding spot. Gosh, the dictatorship here! Lol. But honestly it's stressing me out like crazy when I see it because I want my silver dollars to be left alone and be able to get stronger peacefully. I'm hoping they're used to it and won't be affected by the harassment.
You can try this multiple spot feeding but the problem is the Parrotfish is using psychological warfare on the Dollars. If it were my tank, he'd be gone, not just separated. He's the wrong fish to be with the dollars in such a small tank.
So interesting to know that fish can be so sensitive to detecting the freshness, etc of food!
If you look closely you will see that fish have nostrils. If they have nostrils, they can " smell" .
So... does this mean I shouldn't worry myself crazy when I see how skinny they are..? The one that's eating well is looking pretty good. Maybe he even gained a bit of weight. The other male is extremely skinny but is slowly eating more and more. And the female that's got the bulge is skinny other than the bulge.. (and before this she was such a beautiful, perfect shape and thickness :'( :'( I'm so upset Omg.) But should I not worry because as long as they're eating, they're sustaining themselves? My blood parrot is also eating less, strangely. But he's eating. and grabbing all the food. He loves peas actually. I should feed him that more often.
Some of the issue may be from the harassment by the parrot. I suggest rehoming him.
Go off on a tangent!! It's the best way to learn. I appreciate information and when you're in that zone, please don't hesitate. I wish I knew more before this happened. And hearing about your experience with others, etc, helps me gain knowledge and perspective. It's crazy what people say on the internet while they claim to be experts. In one of my searches (gosh I've forced myself to stop because it was driving me nuts and now that I have you to consult with, I'm focusing on what you're saying) there's a guy who advised someone to do 100% water changes daily!!! For some disease the fish had or something. Um!! Hello!! What about the whole bio-system?? I don't get it how people give such twisted advice. Let alone the no water change system.
FYI, the biological system is not in the water, it's on the surfaces of things in higher oxygenated areas so a 100% water change will not effect the biological system. But yes, there is some crazy stuff on the internet. There are some very basic points with fish keeping. #1 is that water is not the same everywhere. The reason why this matters is because not all medicines will work in all waters. Not all fish can live well in all waters. #2 is you should ask yourself " What makes this person qualified to be giving advice? " and "" Does this advice work under all conditions?" Personal experience is good to hear but that's only part of the solution. You have to know if that result will work in your water, with your fish, in your sized tank. More often than not, the answer is no. It's on YOU to make sure the advice is good for your entire situation( i.e water chemistry, fish specie, temperature, etc. ) This is why you are better off getting local information from local people to you. They will usually be working with water similar to yours. ( I say usually because one of my wholesale houses was on a borderline between 2 water companies so the water across the street from me was different from my water. ) One of my advantages is that I have dealt with fish stores and wholesalers all around this country and the world so my "local" knowledge is wide spread. (y)
You mention adding vitamins.... what do you mean by that...?? I didn't even know that exists. When I do a water change, I add prime to the water and then stability. It's been doing its job I guess... it's good stuff, right?
Once the tank is cycled, there is no need to use the Stability anymore unless you use a medication that suppress' the biological filter. As for vitamins, yes, they do exist. The most common one I see is Vitachem by Boyd Enterprises but there are others. ( I'm just biased to Boyd's because I used to work with the late Dick Boyd at a pet store, who started Boyd Enterprises, and he was one very smart cookie. ;) ) The company is no longer in the Boyd family so I would need to check out the others out there before making any recommendations on brands. In your case, depending on what greens you are feeding, there should be plenty of vitamins in them. Do some research on what you are feeding to see how varied the vitamins are in what you are feeding. If it is only a few, adding multivitamins for fish would not be a bad idea. ( I'll add tho that the worst that will happen is that nothing will change so you don't need to be concerned about over doing the vitamins if you follow the directions. )
Also, how much of natural plants would I need in the tank to make a difference in keeping the nitrates low...? Would it be worth it for me to try and figure out a way to keep them in there, for instance like I mentioned netting them or something? Or am I making no sense... ? Meantime I'm gonna focus on my water changes. I'm just worried for those long weekends I might be away, or for times that I travel (I do travel from time to time and it could potentially be a full week away from home, maybe a bit more. Doesn't happen often, though. Just trying to figure things out in my head
I would not look for aquatic plants for removing nitrates because they are usually the ones the fish eat but what you can try is growing a Pothos plant where the roots are in the tank water so that the plant is taking up the nutrients out of the water while the plant is not in the water. TBH, I'm not sure how many plants you would need in your situation because of the size of the tank. FYI, there are videos and advisors out there in internet land that promote using these plants to reduce water changes but that does not mean they eliminate them. You change water for more reasons than just reducing nitrates. If you get the nitrate level under control by using these plants, you just do a water change before you go away and let the plants do the rest. If you are going away for a week, the fish need to be fed during that time so make sure you have a trusted friend or neighbor who can do that for you.
Okay.. It's good to know I've done whatever I needed to do. I'm so worried the bump shouldn't grow bigger, though. I'll keep you posted. Do I need to worry? Okay there's really no point in worrying right now. I'll keep putting in a prayer!
No, worrying will do absolutely nothing for the bump so why do it? ;)
 
Back
Top Bottom