Google aquarium hanging plant holder and try those with pothos.
Hi, Hi, Hi, Andy - it's been a while - but I've been wanting to post so badly but been so consumed with my friend and with just trying to do my water changes, etc. Thank you for expressing your well wishes to her.I'll start by saying So sorry to hear about your friend. Hope he/she gets better.
As for the first test results, they don't count. You can't immediately test the water after a water change before it has plenty of time to circulate throughout the tank. That's like pouring chocolate syrup into a glass of milk and being upset the milk is still white even tho you didn't stir it. Get the picture?Wait at least 3 to 4 hours before testing after a water change.
As for the ammonia level being higher more frequently, there are a few possibilities:
Your water company is using more chloramine.
You are feeding more food.
Your fish are bigger now so they produce more ammonia no matter what you feed them.
Your fish are overcrowded which causes them to be more aggressive towards each other which causes the fish to breathe heavier which produces ammonia in the water. ( Yes, breathing causes ammonia. I refer you to: Florida Department of Agriculture & Consumer Services )
Regarding the nitrates: The more ammonia being produced, the more nitrates your tank is going to produce. Guess what the best answer is to that,( Hint: It's water changes, more frequently or larger in volume.
) As for as the nitrates coming from the gravel, that's only true if there is excess food buried in the gravel. If there is uneaten food in the gravel, it means you are overfeeding and you need to stir up more of the gravel at each water change to suck out the uneaten food and cut back on the amount. Removing some gravel will do nothing but remove areas where the nitrifying microbes could be.
Moving forward: reread every post Aiken and I have made in your thread regarding how to deal with an overcrowded tank. No matter how you try to get around it, the proper answers in order are: a better combination of fish followed by more room for the existing fish to get away from each other. If these are not an option, it means YOU have to do more work with more frequent water changes or changing the amount of water you change at each water change.
So that's where you are at. At least "Bumpy fish" is better.![]()
Thank you!Google aquarium hanging plant holder and try those with pothos.
Does this mean that it's enough if the roots are in the water? It's not the leaves that absorb the nitrates?Google aquarium hanging plant holder and try those with pothos.
So what's the point of the carbon filter? And which filter helps ammonia?Carbon absorbs organic compounds. Ammonia isnt organic. Carbon does nothing to ammonia.
The plants take up nitrates and nutrients from the roots and leaves. If there are no nutrients in the air, then the roots will do the job.Does this mean that it's enough if the roots are in the water? It's not the leaves that absorb the nitrates?
Carbon removes organic matter so things like Tannins, Gases like Carbon Dioxide & Methane, the materials that darken water from fish waste over time ad such. The amount of carbon in a filter cartridge is not going to remove all these things all the time. Think of it as a sponge. Once you moisten a sponge, water is not taking over areas inside the sponge so that the sponge itself can't hold as much water as it did when it was dry. The more water in the sponge, the less new water the sponge can absorb. In the end tho, water changes can do more than the carbon does.So what's the point of the carbon filter? And which filter helps ammonia?
Thanks
Thank you for explaining thisThe plants take up nitrates and nutrients from the roots and leaves. If there are no nutrients in the air, then the roots will do the job.
Carbon removes organic matter so things like Tannins, Gases like Carbon Dioxide & Methane, the materials that darken water from fish waste over time ad such. The amount of carbon in a filter cartridge is not going to remove all these things all the time. Think of it as a sponge. Once you moisten a sponge, water is not taking over areas inside the sponge so that the sponge itself can't hold as much water as it did when it was dry. The more water in the sponge, the less new water the sponge can absorb. In the end tho, water changes can do more than the carbon does.
Regarding the other topics:
Getting more fish for your tank will only make things worse not better so get rid of that idea. The fish stopping eating because the Parrot harasses them is a long term problem that can not be fixed without removal or separation. These are not animals like a dog or cat that can be trained to have a certain disposition. As I've explained, you have a bad combination of fish in a tank that is too small for them. Nothing is going to change that until you change something ( i.e. fish removal, a larger tank, fish deaths. ) You can ask the question as many different ways you want and ask as many different people as you want. The knowledgeable people will tell you the same thing as I have. You have fish that are too big in a tank that is too small and you have the wrong combination of fish in too small of a tank which is why the Parrot is harassing the Dollars when they are eating and the end result is he is damaging the Dollars. If you can't do anything about this situation, you have to accept the end results of that decision. There is no magic pill you can give the fish, no stretchability in the glass to make the tank larger, no magic spell you can cast on the fish that is going to help you. As Walter Cronkite used to say" And that's the way it is. "
As for a divider, I'm guessing they don't make a divider specifically for bowfront tanks but I would ask your local store or where you bought the tank if they do. You may need to have one specially made. It can be of acrylic or glass or what I was thinking was eggcrate panel that would have to be custom cut to fit. TBH tho, it sounds like the divider idea is going to be too much for you . If you can gather the strength to net the parrot and put him in a bucket, take him to the store and rehome him because the hard part is already done.![]()
It's possible but there is no way for me or you to know for sure unless you can set up a web cam or something to record the tank. If she looks like she's getting skinny again, then she's not getting enough food.I don't know my plan B yet because I haven't even figured out my plan A yetbut I do know that if my female SD (Bumpy Fish) is not eating, that's not good at all and they're all being harassed so I'm kind of desperate. I have an empty 20-gallon tank but a few years ago it had a light leak which I need to fix before I could use it again. So that's not ready, either, and I don't know how soon I can get it ready.. but I would try. Definitely not before a bunch of weeks, I don't even know. I'm so overwhelmed right now. I'm just extremely desperate for my silver dollars to be okay. Do you know if hopefully Bumpy Fish is eating even if I don't see it...??
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So what can I do, how do I set up a new tank that can immediately house my blood parrot without jeopardizing him due to it being a new tank, new filter, etc. I'm so lost and devastated - my silver dollar must eat immediately -- I don't know what to do anymore! My only option at the moment is the 10-gallon tank, I don't know what else to do. I even asked my LFS if he could home him temporarily but he doesn't have an empty tank available. So even if he does it, it would be the same process of setting up a new tank, but I don't trust that he would know 100% rules of how to do it, the way you would know. He basically said, oh, just use your current tank water and that's what's gonna cycle in the new filter...so it should be fine... etc.It's possible but there is no way for me or you to know for sure unless you can set up a web cam or something to record the tank. If she looks like she's getting skinny again, then she's not getting enough food.
Yes. That's correct.Does this mean that it's enough if the roots are in the water? It's not the leaves that absorb the nitrates?
Really the point of carbon is to get you to spend money on carbon.So what's the point of the carbon filter? And which filter helps ammonia?
Thanks
Here's how you cycle a tank quickly: Set up the new tank with new water that has the similar parameters ( pH, ammonia, nitrite and Temperature) to your main tank. Set up a new filter and add some of the filter material from your existing filter to the new filter. ( In your case, if you have multiple pads in your old filter, you can replace 1 whole pad without doing damage to your main tank as you are going to be reducing the amount of ammonia production. If you only have 1 pad in your old filter, remove about 1/3 of the pad for the new filter and then replace the missing part of the pad with either new filter pad or filter floss.)So what can I do, how do I set up a new tank that can immediately house my blood parrot without jeopardizing him due to it being a new tank, new filter, etc. I'm so lost and devastated - my silver dollar must eat immediately -- I don't know what to do anymore! My only option at the moment is the 10-gallon tank, I don't know what else to do. I even asked my LFS if he could home him temporarily but he doesn't have an empty tank available. So even if he does it, it would be the same process of setting up a new tank, but I don't trust that he would know 100% rules of how to do it, the way you would know. He basically said, oh, just use your current tank water and that's what's gonna cycle in the new filter...so it should be fine... etc.
First, thank you so much for explaining this. I have a few questions. When you say "new water", can I use my current tank water? It would make me feel a lot calmer knowing it matches everything right from the start.Here's how you cycle a tank quickly: Set up the new tank with new water that has the similar parameters ( pH, ammonia, nitrite and Temperature) to your main tank.
I have questions about the above so I'll explain in detail:Set up a new filter and add some of the filter material from your existing filter to the new filter. ( In your case, if you have multiple pads in your old filter, you can replace 1 whole pad without doing damage to your main tank as you are going to be reducing the amount of ammonia production. If you only have 1 pad in your old filter, remove about 1/3 of the pad for the new filter and then replace the missing part of the pad with either new filter pad or filter floss.)
For how long do I need to test it daily until the cycle catches up and I don't have to worry about it spiking, etc?What all this does is move some of the nitrifying microbes from the one filter to the other so that they exist in now both tanks and each colony in both tanks will reproduce to catch up to the amount of ammonia present. In most cases, that happens in 24-48 hours. In a tank with new water, it usually takes longer than that for ammonia to get a toxic level. In your case, because you will be putting a large fish into a small tank, you should test ammonia daily and do water changes if necessary.
I believe I have an air pump. My little tank is a 10-gal, do I need to worry that this might be too strong? I think I have the smaller version also, it doesn't have 2 compartments, only one. With the filtration media, etc.Re the filter you linked, you can use the one for the 20-50 gallon tank but they run by an air pump so if you don't have one, you will need to get an Air pump, airline tubing, 2 way valve ( or larger) and the filter. The valve is to control the amount of air going into the filter. The valve allows you to bleed off the excess back pressure which will make your air pump run quieter and last longer.![]()
New water is better but if you use tank water, you can tell how well the microbes are working by judging the nitrate level. Know what it is when you first add the fish and then test daily ( along with ammonia ) and see if it's going up. If it is, then you have an active microbe bed. When that happens, you should see no ammonia and rising nitrates.First, thank you so much for explaining this. I have a few questions. When you say "new water", can I use my current tank water? It would make me feel a lot calmer knowing it matches everything right from the start.
Neither a HOB or a corner filter is a great option because the fish is too big for the tank and will probably mess with either. The inside filter is a better compromise because the worst that can happen is he dumps the filter material in the tank while if he attacks the HOB, it can drain onto the floor. As long as it's in the tank, it will keep the microbes alive until you fix the filter. I see there are two ways of setting up that Eheim filter. ( Function; Installation; Maintenance - EHEIM classic 2215 Manual [Page 3] ) I was hoping you had the set up in B but it sounds like you have B1. If that's the case, use a good handful of the Pro-biological filter material in the new filter and replace what you took out with either more of the same or filter floss or pad. That's there the microbes would be in your filter.I have questions about the above so I'll explain in detail:
I have the Eheim Classic 2215 Canister filter (I think it's the 2215) so there's the following layers of filtration:
All the way on the bottom there's this (or extremely similar):
on top of that, there's this media (or extremely similar) in a mesh bag:
Above that there's a white sponge, and above that the carbon filter.
So my question is, I wouldn't wanna touch any of that media... is it enough if I use a piece of the carbon and white pad in the new filter? Although then I'd probably have to replace both pads in my Eheim filter. This is why I asked you about that filter I linked, because it seems to be most similar to what I have (except on a much smaller scale) and working with the same kind of system as the Eheim. Am I making sense? Do you agree it's a good option, better than the regular hanging filters that make a bunch of noise?
Once the gravel dried out, nothing on it would be alive so you need to wash it thoroughly before reusing or else you risk contaminating the tank.Also, I had removed some of my gravel (before I saw your response that I shouldn't remove it) so I have that to add to the new tank. Not a huge amount at all, though. However, I did not keep it wet; it has dried out since. I did not rinse it, though. So whatever came out of the tank with it, is there. Are the healthy bacteria dead on those gravels? Or once it gets wet it gets reactivated? And if so, how do you then advise in terms of using media from my current filter... is it still necessary, etc?
Maybe the fake plant can keep him occupied. As for there being any nitrifying microbes, just because it's in the water does not mean things will grow on it. Nitrifying microbes are dependent on oxygen and are only found in quantity where there is high oxygen levels in the water. ( This is why the filter has the most microbes. ) If the plant is not in an area like that, it just has biofilm on it and of no biological value.I also have a tiny little fake plant in the tank that I could transfer over. It probably has stuff in it by now; it's there for years. Also, I had put some crushed coral in a mesh bag at some point (my PH was low.. haven't checked it in a while actually...) so I could put some of that also into the tank since it probably holds good bacteria by now.. am I correct with all this?
Since I have no idea what kind of filter you are talking about, I can't say yes or no but how I explained how to set up the new filter above applies to any new filter that's not a sponge filter. With a sponge filter, it's better using a pad to attach to the sponge so that water flows through them both.Also, my LFS said they have a used filter I could use... should I take that (I don't know which kind it is yet) or do you feel the link I sent you is a good choice...?
At least a week or two. When you see no ammonia and rising nitrates, you'll know that the microbe bed is caught up and then you just need to worry about too much nitrates.h
For how long do I need to test it daily until the cycle catches up and I don't have to worry about it spiking, etc?
Unless it's got more than one way to control air flow, it's not what I'm talking about. This is a gang valve:I believe I have an air pump. My little tank is a 10-gal, do I need to worry that this might be too strong? I think I have the smaller version also, it doesn't have 2 compartments, only one. With the filtration media, etc.
The valve you're talking about is the little black thing that connects the two tubes together, yes? (one going from the pump to the valve, the other going from valve to the tank)
Well, buck up!!!I put cucumber peels for my fish, Bumpy Fish is not even coming to eat from it![]()
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I would give blood worms soon, but that also my Blood Parrot dominates. And I didn't set up that other tank yet. I'm so terrified, I can't begin to tell you how terrified and miserable I am about this.
Do I have to panic if the ammonia goes up...? Or is this expected until the microbe bed is active? (gosh, all these fancy words I'm learning). And if so, what level of ammonia is okay to expect, and what level would be alarming?New water is better but if you use tank water, you can tell how well the microbes are working by judging the nitrate level. Know what it is when you first add the fish and then test daily ( along with ammonia ) and see if it's going up. If it is, then you have an active microbe bed. When that happens, you should see no ammonia and rising nitrates.
I never realized there are 2 setups to the Eheim Classic 2215... I'll check it out. My LFS had set it up for me. That being said, the new filter for the 10-gal is really small. I don't know if what you call a "handful" would fit into the section that has the pro-biological material. But I guess that's good enough? Also, I don't have any more of that material to replace what I take out.. that's why I was hoping I won't have to remove any from my Eheim... but you're saying it's the only and safest way?Neither a HOB or a corner filter is a great option because the fish is too big for the tank and will probably mess with either. The inside filter is a better compromise because the worst that can happen is he dumps the filter material in the tank while if he attacks the HOB, it can drain onto the floor. As long as it's in the tank, it will keep the microbes alive until you fix the filter. I see there are two ways of setting up that Eheim filter. ( Function; Installation; Maintenance - EHEIM classic 2215 Manual [Page 3] ) I was hoping you had the set up in B but it sounds like you have B1. If that's the case, use a good handful of the Pro-biological filter material in the new filter and replace what you took out with either more of the same or filter floss or pad. That's there the microbes would be in your filter.
What a shame that I didn't keep it wet.Once the gravel dried out, nothing on it would be alive so you need to wash it thoroughly before reusing or else you risk contaminating the tank.
Ohh... so I guess this means there's no point in me transferring some of the crushed coral..? Or can it make somewhat of a difference...? It's just sitting on the gravel in a mesh bag.Maybe the fake plant can keep him occupied. As for there being any nitrifying microbes, just because it's in the water does not mean things will grow on it. Nitrifying microbes are dependent on oxygen and are only found in quantity where there is high oxygen levels in the water. ( This is why the filter has the most microbes. ) If the plant is not in an area like that, it just has biofilm on it and of no biological value.
Thanks for explaining the above. I will study it and try to set it up correctly. I do have the valve piece you're talking about..At least a week or two. When you see no ammonia and rising nitrates, you'll know that the microbe bed is caught up and then you just need to worry about too much nitrates.
Unless it's got more than one way to control air flow, it's not what I'm talking about. This is a gang valve: View attachment 391374 This happens to be a 5 way gang valve but they come in sizes from 2 way valves to 10 way or larger valves. You run a line from your air pump to the side nipple of the valve. Attach airline to one of the top nipples and attach to your filter. Using this 5 way as an example, open the one valve that is attached to the filter all the way and close all the rest of the valves. Plug in the air pump. The filter should be bubbling too strong if you have too big an air pump so you slowly open any one of the closed valves ( now called the bleeder valve) until the filter is bubbling correctly. If the bleeder valve is totally open and the filter is still bubbling too strong, open a second valve slowly until the filter is functioning correctly and so on. If you just have a one way valve, you are creating back pressure on the pump when you adjust the level and THAT is what kills pumps ( actually the diaphragms inside the pump. )
I knowwwwwwwwwwWell, buck up!!!![]()
You being terrified and miserable is not helping the fish at all. You doing the work will.
I will however add a little salt in the wound
because if you did this weeks ago when it was suggested, the Dollars would be in better shape by now. So stop reading this and start doing the work.
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You don't have to panic but if the ammonia level goes higher than .25 PPM, do a water change to bring it down but not down to zero.Do I have to panic if the ammonia goes up...? Or is this expected until the microbe bed is active? (gosh, all these fancy words I'm learning). And if so, what level of ammonia is okay to expect, and what level would be alarming?
I may be missing something here but you should be taking a handful of the pro-biological material OUT of the eheim and putting it INTO the new filter. Get some new material as soon as reasonably possible. The sooner the better so that the microbes have more area to colonize.I never realized there are 2 setups to the Eheim Classic 2215... I'll check it out. My LFS had set it up for me. That being said, the new filter for the 10-gal is really small. I don't know if what you call a "handful" would fit into the section that has the pro-biological material. But I guess that's good enough? Also, I don't have any more of that material to replace what I take out.. that's why I was hoping I won't have to remove any from my Eheim... but you're saying it's the only and safest way?
What is your old filter?Also, the "new" filter is a filter I've used in the past. I did order a brand new one, though, just in case. Can I use the "used" one and rinse sponge and carbon filter well, with regular water? Or do you strongly advise using the brand new filter? (it's the one I sent you in the link)
Show me the filter.Also, can I use the sponges it comes with, or do I have to also take a piece of that from my Eheim...? (I'm hoping the media is enough...?)
It didn't need to just be wet, it also needed to be oxygenated.What a shame that I didn't keep it wet.
No point indeed.Ohh... so I guess this means there's no point in me transferring some of the crushed coral..? Or can it make somewhat of a difference...? It's just sitting on the gravel in a mesh bag.
You'd be surprised how many people don't use them and then bitch and moan about their air pumps not lasting. I have 30 year old pumps that still work. I wonder why?Thanks for explaining the above. I will study it and try to set it up correctly. I do have the valve piece you're talking about..
Don't kick too hard, you have work to do.I knowwwwwwwwwwI'm kicking myself terribly for that!!! I've been so consumed with the hospital stuff and all that craziness, that I don't even know how I could have done it back then, but I truly wish I did.
For what it's worth, doing it at night while the fish is asleep is actually easier because the fish will be easier to catch asleep. I don't want to alarm you but for safety reasons, it's best to set the tank up and let it sit for 24 hours to make sure it's not going to break on the stand if it's not level or if it leaks. ( I'm a real "better safe than sorry" guy.) The worst thing you can do is have to put the parrot back into the Dollar's tank if the other tank should leak. You might want to set it up tonight or tomorrow morning and fill with regular water to test the tank then drain the tank at night and move the water and fish once you know the tank is still good.Tonight I will prepare a spot for the 10-gallon (my house is tiny). I don't want to bother my fish now (I've been so scared not to stress them out even more) so I guess in the morning I will do a water change and use the removed water for the 10-gallon tank. Oh, and I'll have to remove some of the media from the Eheim but I'm waiting to see your response above to my questions regarding that.
So, once I did all that and the heater is in and the water is basically around the same temperature, are you saying it's safe to net my parrot and drop him into the new tank...? And I don't need to panic doing that....? I'm gonna have to put him in a pail first because the new tank will have to be in a different room. Ugh this whole thing sucks!!![]()
I'm not sure why you are lost. I've been giving you a map to follow.By the way thanks for your support. I feel so lost and actually so sad.
That's the plan. Hopefully it's not too late to work.I'm really hoping that once the bully is out of the tank, my silver dollars will liven up and start relaxing and eating again? Mainly my large one (Bumpy Fish) hasn't been eating.I really hope they all become their happy selves again.
You shouldn't need to. You are already adding the microbes. You do need to use the PRIME when adding new water.But also, I hope my blood parrot will do greatly in the new tank. I'm terrified. (no point in being terrified! I know, I know.. lol)
Oh-- another thing -- I know we've discussed Prime & Stability.. I do use those every time I do a water change. Should I be adding Stability daily for the first week?
Correct, it's not a " new" tank anymore.According to the label I think that's what needs to be done in a "new" tank but is this not gonna be considered "new" since I'm using some of the cycled material?
Omg - first, I just wanna say that I really appreciate your humor; it makes me laugh amidst this stress, and it also makes me feel like perhaps I'm not a terrible person by having (very UNintentionally) allowed this situation to happen with my fish... and it gives me courage to do what I gotta do and hopefully not freak out.You don't have to panic but if the ammonia level goes higher than .25 PPM, do a water change to bring it down but not down to zero.
Okay so I guess I'll take some of the below media out of my Eheim Canister filter. More of the balls than the white stuff I think..I may be missing something here but you should be taking a handful of the pro-biological material OUT of the eheim and putting it INTO the new filter. Get some new material as soon as reasonably possible. The sooner the better so that the microbes have more area to colonize.And YES, it's the best way of doing this because it already contains the microbes you are trying to create.
This is the filter:What is your old filter? Show me the filter.
Such interesting pieces of information that I never realized!It didn't need to just be wet, it also needed to be oxygenated.
A pump that's 30 years old!!!??? Wow. I hope I'll get to say that on all my fishYou'd be surprised how many people don't use them and then bitch and moan about their air pumps not lasting. I have 30 year old pumps that still work. I wonder why?![]()
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Thanks for the encouragement and support!!Don't kick too hard, you have work to do.![]()
Oh. Very good point. The reason I didn't wanna do it at night is because I don't wanna disturb them, especially now when they get so bullied, I can only relax at night knowing that hopefully most of the night they all sleep. But you're right. The problem is, I haven't yet set up the tank because I need to work on it by day, with all the filter stuff, etc.For what it's worth, doing it at night while the fish is asleep is actually easier because the fish will be easier to catch asleep.
Yikes! Wait an entire 24 hours?? And yes, that possibility is scary..!I don't want to alarm you but for safety reasons, it's best to set the tank up and let it sit for 24 hours to make sure it's not going to break on the stand if it's not level or if it leaks. ( I'm a real "better safe than sorry" guy.) The worst thing you can do is have to put the parrot back into the Dollar's tank if the other tank should leak. You might want to set it up tonight or tomorrow morning and fill with regular water to test the tank then drain the tank at night and move the water and fish once you know the tank is still good.
Ha!! Literally!! You've literally been a lifesaver. I have no words to thank you!! And you're right, you're mapping it out piece by piece. I wanted to tell you that I appreciate so much that you're taking the time to read all the details I'm telling you and asking, and you're giving me guidance by breaking it down for me in so much detail so that I have clarity on what to do. I guess my brain and emotions are just so overloaded that it makes me feel lost. But I'm not.I'm not sure why you are lost. I've been giving you a map to follow.![]()
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Not too late to work.....? I'm afraid to ask what you mean by that...That's the plan. Hopefully it's not too late to work.![]()