Nitrate Problem for Molly

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

gmanova

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Nov 11, 2011
Messages
185
Location
Allentown, PA.
I am new to this hobby! I have a 48 G. planted aquarium with 9 mollies and 6 tetras. My nitrate level is 80 ppm. I heard 20 and under is the target. Trouble is my tap water to start is 40 ppm. Even with a 50% WC, ppm level would hit 60ppm and another would get me to 50 ppm, hardly not near the recommended 20 ppm. I feed the fish once per day with a consumption time of 2 minutes.

1. Can some kind soul recommend a solution as to what I can do?

2. What nitrate (ppm) level is the danger zone for my fish?

3. Does using a dechlorination solution help any?
 
How heavily is the tank planted? Depending on the type of water conditioner your using, some do help to bind nitrates. I believe Prime does as well as Amquel Plus. As your tap is on the high side for nitrate levels (not dangerous, just higher than ideal), I would consider doing more frequent, big water changes to keep your nitrate levels as low as possible. Yes, this will mean more work than someone with tap water with zero nitrates but as your starting at 40, your nitrate levels will climb fairly quickly. A second consideration, if you have the budget to spend on fish, would be to consider getting an under-sink type of RO unit to remove everything from your tap (you have to add back minerals such as Replenish). In respect to a 'dangerous' level of nitrates, this is a bit debatible- some sources say 60ppm others say closer to 100ppm but more sensitive fish will be affected by these levels before more tolerant species.
 
I have 2 small Java Ferns and 2 small Anubias Nana's. I use API water conditioner. Does Nitra-Zorb work. I did a test yesterday using 1/2 gallon jug of 40ppm nitrate tap water and add 1 ml of the API to it. The Nitrate reading this morning of that test liquid read 0 ppm. Make any since to you? My thinking is to make a number of these jugs and then do a 50% WC.
 
You may get false readings if you do them prior to 24 hours after using a dechlorinator.

I would do tons of water changes. Even if your tap reads 40, there's no reason you should have another 40 in the tank to equal your 80.
 
I will do a 50% WC today which should get me to 60ppm, then another tomorrow to get me to 50ppm and one more on Sunday to get me to about 45 ppm and hope it stays low.

My tap water goes through a H2O softener in my basement. Would using water upstream of the softener be of any help?
 
I am not familiar with the API product but I did a quick search on it- it detoxes chlorine/chloramines/ammonia but it does not mention nitrates. I would consider switching to Prime or Amquel Plus which both help with nitrates. Do search on here for some fast-growing, easy plants that are good for absorbing nitrates (such as wisteria, hornwort, duckweed, etc). You can consider adding the nitrasorb to your filter but it will need to be replaced on regular basis. :)
 
jlk said:
I am not familiar with the API product but I did a quick search on it- it detoxes chlorine/chloramines/ammonia but it does not mention nitrates. I would consider switching to Prime or Amquel Plus which both help with nitrates. Do search on here for some fast-growing, easy plants that are good for absorbing nitrates (such as wisteria, hornwort, duckweed, etc). You can consider adding the nitrasorb to your filter but it will need to be replaced on regular basis. :)

I, too, WAS having very high Nitrates. I've tried just about everything to get them down but with no luck. On the recommendation of a local fish shop (in business for over 35 years) I tried Nitra-Zorb and I'm glad I did. My Nitrates dropped from 80+ ppm to 40 in 24- hours and to Less than 10 ppm in 3 days. I am 100% sold on the product. I also use Prime with every water change adding the proper amount for my 28 gallon tank not just for the water change total. my tap water is also high in Nitrates but an RO system isn't in the budget right now.
 
Just stop feeding your fish so much, once or twice a week tops. Tiny amount
I'm not sure that replying to a thread started over a decade ago is going to help the OP. Nowhere in the thread does the OP suggest they are over feeding their fish, in fact the cause of their high nitrate is high nitrate straight from the tap which cutting back on feeding isn't going to address.

Fish need feeding more often than once or twice a week. While fish can survive upto a week with no food, they can only do this occasionally. If you are only feeding fish once or twice a week you are starving your fish and this isn't going to be healthy for them. Feed your fish every day. You can skip a day here and there, and if you are going away it might be better to just not to feed them than have someone you don't trust do it for you. But generally you want to feed your fish at least once a day, smaller amounts multiple times a day is better.
 
I am new to this hobby! I have a 48 G. planted aquarium with 9 mollies and 6 tetras. My nitrate level is 80 ppm. I heard 20 and under is the target. Trouble is my tap water to start is 40 ppm. Even with a 50% WC, ppm level would hit 60ppm and another would get me to 50 ppm, hardly not near the recommended 20 ppm. I feed the fish once per day with a consumption time of 2 minutes.

1. Can some kind soul recommend a solution as to what I can do?

2. What nitrate (ppm) level is the danger zone for my fish?

3. Does using a dechlorination solution help any?
Hi to you gmanova. Mollies are probably the most sensitive to nitrate in their water. They really require a couple of large water changes weekly to maintain a steady water chemistry. A company by the name of Seachem has a nitrate remover that may help in a situation where you have a higher nitrate level in your water. The chemical is called "denitrate". You may want to research this product. In the meantime, gradually work up to the point you're removing and replacing half the tank water every few days. Even 50 percent twice a week isn't too often. This will maintain a steady water chemistry and this is more important to the health of your fish than trying for and then maintaining a specific chemistry.

B
 
So a good general rule could be don't eat anything yourself until after you feed your fish :)
I bet the OP has fixed the issue by now.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom