please help me pick plants and substrate

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Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Oct 15, 2025
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55
Location
Arlington, TX, USA
Hi,
It Seems like to are so many companies to buy from for freshwater plant substrate. I'll be moving my 20-gallon gravel artificial tank over to a 40-gallon tank. I want a natural aquarium/aquascape. 1st, I need plant substrate or maybe a mix of substrate, idk. I like the stem plants that are easy to care for & floating ones. I would like a substrate that, if I need to vacuum it, doesn't get all sucked up in the gravel vac, but also one that doesn't hide a lot of waste and particles that need to be removed occasionally. Something I can do water changes with and not cloud the entire tank. But most importantly provides nutrients to live plants and doesn't mess with PH too much.

Can you offer your opinions?
 
Almost every commonly kept aquarium plant will do just fine with standard aquarium gravel or sand. If you dont want it accidentally being sucked up when you do water changes then gravel. No need to look for anything specialised. Just get a generic bag of aquarium gravel in whatever colour you prefer.

You only need to be considering specialised substrates if you are looking to keep high demand plants that are also going to need specialised lighting, injected CO2 and nutrient dosing regimes. And all that is an additional level of complexity.

A lot of plants dont even need any substrate. Java fern and anubias are rhyzome plants. You just tie or superglue the rhyzome onto a piece of rock or driftwood and place in the aquarium. These are 2 of the most bullet proof aquarium plants you can get, so start with these. They are frequently sold already attached to driftwood. Java moss can be kept similarly.

Floating plants are pretty easy too. At the top of the aquarium they have access to maximum light and atmospheric CO2. They are often nutrient hungry, and are a good gauge of whether there is sufficient plant nutrients available. If floating plants arent doing well it's a pretty good bet that it's nutrient deficiency as they have such good access to light and CO2. Frogbit, water lettuce and red root floaters are common floating plants. Avoid duckweed, as it can rapidly take over. Duckweed can double every 24 hours in optimal conditions.

Amazon swords are probably the most commonly kept rooted plants, that's a good place to start. Cryptocoryne are easy to grow, but I find they spread out all through the tank and take a bit of management. I like cabomba, it's very pretty and easy to keep. Vallisneria is commonly kept, but I've never tried that plant. Get some root tabs and push them into the substrate around rooted plants will give them what nutrients arent provided by fish waste.

Keep low demand plants in standard aquarium gravel, with a standard aquarium light on 6 to 8 hours a day, root tabs for any rooted plants, and an all in one aquarium plant fertiliser with your weekly water change and most of the time you will be good. Be aware there may be an ugly period. Aquarium plants are cultivated "emersed" rather than submerged. They get maximum light and CO2 that way and grow quicker making them more commercially viable. You take those plants and place them in your aquarium, cut off their CO2 supply and reduce the lights and the plants go into survival mode, and can melt. But new growth will be suited to the new the new environment. So look for how new growth does over extended periods, rather than worry about old growth dying short term. It takes a bit of fiddling with nutrients and lighting periods, and not every plant does well in every aquarium. So keep the ones that do well, and remove the ones that don't.

If you arent buying blister packed plants (eg tropica) which should be pest free, look at a method of pest removal or you may be introducing unwanted pest snails etc. Either bleach dips or reverse respiration to kill off any pests before you add any plant thats come out of another aquarium.
 
Almost every commonly kept aquarium plant will do just fine with standard aquarium gravel or sand. If you dont want it accidentally being sucked up when you do water changes then gravel. No need to look for anything specialised. Just get a generic bag of aquarium gravel in whatever colour you prefer.

You only need to be considering specialised substrates if you are looking to keep high demand plants that are also going to need specialised lighting, injected CO2 and nutrient dosing regimes. And all that is an additional level of complexity.

A lot of plants dont even need any substrate. Java fern and anubias are rhyzome plants. You just tie or superglue the rhyzome onto a piece of rock or driftwood and place in the aquarium. These are 2 of the most bullet proof aquarium plants you can get, so start with these. They are frequently sold already attached to driftwood. Java moss can be kept similarly.

Floating plants are pretty easy too. At the top of the aquarium they have access to maximum light and atmospheric CO2. They are often nutrient hungry, and are a good gauge of whether there is sufficient plant nutrients available. If floating plants arent doing well it's a pretty good that it's nutrient deficiency as they have such good access to light and CO2. Frogbit, water lettuce and red root floaters are common floating plants. Avoid duckweed, as it can rapidly take over. Duckweed can double every 24 hours in optimal conditions.

Amazon swords are probably the most commonly kept rooted plants, that's a good place to start. Cryptocoryne are easy to grow, but I find they spread out all through the tank and take a bit of management. I like cabomba, it's very pretty and easy to keep. Vallisneria is commonly kept, but I've never tried that plant. Get some root tabs and push them into the substrate around rooted plants will give them what nutrients arent provided by fish waste.

Keep low demand plants in standard aquarium gravel, with a standard aquarium light on 6 to 8 hours a day, root tabs for any rooted plants, and an all in one aquarium plant fertiliser with your weekly water change and most of the time you will be good. Be aware there may be an ugly period. Aquarium plants are cultivated "emersed" rather than submerged. They get maximum light and CO2 that way and grow quicker making them more commercially viable. You take those plants and place them in your aquarium, cut off their CO2 supply and reduce the lights and the plants go into survival mode, and can melt. But new growth will be suited to the new the new environment. So look for how new growth does over extended periods, rather than worry about old growth dying short term. It takes a bit of fiddling with nutrients and lighting periods, and not every plant does well in every aquarium. So keep the ones that do well, and remove the ones that don't.

If you arent buying blister packed plants (eg tropica) which should be pest free, look at a method of pest removal or you may be introducing unwanted pest snails etc. Either bleach dips or reverse respiration to kill off any pests before you add any plant thats come out of another aquarium.
Thank you for all of your helpful input.
 
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