Rimless concerns.

[805HD]

I recently acquired a 150 gallon (72x18x30) rimless with 1/2 inch glass all around. I’ve seen the tank with water in it as I know the person I got it from. I’ve been looking into euro bracing the tank for a little extra piece of mind but glass, especially at 1/2” or even 3/8” is so expensive I’m looking for alternatives.

Which brings me to my question. I have a bit of 1/2” glass laying around here I could get some triangular “corner braces” out of. Anyone have any experience with or input on this idea?

Picture is just an example. Ignore the jagged cut. I’m not set up to cut the thick stuff around here and would have my local glass shop cut it for me.

Thanks!

 

[Andy Sager]

In a tank that size and height, I would feel more secure with a center brace as well if you just do the corners. You want to reduce any pressure to bow on the glass. If you don't want the center brace, doing the Euro bracing around the whole tank is the better option. 150 gallons of water on the floor is a higher price to pay than a few extra bucks on bracing IMO.

I'll add that with larger tanks. they tend to settle and the silicone has stretched in the seams to accommodate any uneveness on the stand. I'd be sure to use at least 1" of styrofoam underneath the tank so that the tank has some give to it should it not fit exactly as it was on the original stand ( even if you are using the original stand. )

 

[805HD]

I agree. The corner bracing looks good to me but I checked the front glass with a straight edge and it has a slight bow to it. Minimal, but it’s not going to get better! Problem with a full euro brace is the overflow sits in the back center so a full brace would block access to plumbing

In a tank that size and height, I would feel more secure with a center brace as well if you just do the corners. You want to reduce any pressure to bow on the glass.

I’m a DIY guy so spending $400+ dollars on some glass is gonna hurt the ego. I’ll do it if I have to but I always look for the work around if I can find one. I do have an old tank (same length) that I could salvage glass from. Hmmmm I wonder is it’s tempered or not?!

 

[Andy Sager]

Another

I agree. The corner bracing looks good to me but I checked the front glass with a straight edge and it has a slight bow to it. Minimal, but it’s not going to get better! Problem with a full euro brace is the overflow sits in the back center so a full brace would block access to plumbing


I’m a DIY guy so spending $400+ dollars on some glass is gonna hurt the ego. I’ll do it if I have to but I always look for the work around if I can find one. I do have an old tank (same length) that I could salvage glass from. Hmmmm I wonder is it’s tempered or not?!

Another option if you don't want to do full Euro is to make 2 cross supports 3"-4" wide and adhere them on either side of the center area that will also help prevent the glass from bowing in the center. I feel ya with the DIY but sometimes ya have to suck it up to keep the floor dry.
If you have a glass store in your town or nearby, here's another hint: Go to the store close to their closing time and ask if they have any scrap glass. Sometimes they have excess that is too small for any other major jobs so they either give it away or sell at a discount. I haven't paid for glass or Plexi in years.

 

[805HD]

I was able to verify that an old tank I had laying around wasn’t tempered. Used a polarized camera filter and a LCD screen which, works very well by the way.

Tore the tank down and after a bit of a learning curve with the glass cutter I had all the 3/8” glass I needed and then some. I paid $20 for that tank and about $20 on the cutters. Super happy with the results!

Because the overflow is in the center I’m gonna go with something along these lines. What do you guys think?

I understand the lateral pieces are the only ones offering any structural support. The horizontal pieces just frame everything in and make things look more symmetrical.

I do have an extra glass so I’m open to suggestions.

 

[Andy Sager]

That should do. It gives you structural support close enough to the middle that the glass shouldn't bow. Just make sure you allow the silicone to fully cure.

 

[805HD]

That should do. It gives you structural support close enough to the middle that the glass shouldn't bow. Just make sure you allow the silicone to fully cure.

That’s what I’m thinking. The bracing is on top. Not inside, so once the silicone is cured it should be able to hold a pretty good amount of shear stress. There’s just no way for me to have anything dead center that would allow for access to the back of my overflow without lowering the water line substantially. To me that would completely defeat the purpose of a “rimless”.

 

[Andy Sager]

That’s what I’m thinking. The bracing is on top. Not inside, so once the silicone is cured it should be able to hold a pretty good amount of shear stress. There’s just no way for me to have anything dead center that would allow for access to the back of my overflow without lowering the water line substantially. To me that would completely defeat the purpose of a “rimless”.

I've seen many large tanks supported this way so no big deal. Had this been plexiglass, there may still be some bow but I doubt that happens with the glass since the cross supports are close to the middle.

 

[805HD]

Just wanted to end this thread with some results. Came out pretty sweet. Getting that silicone on there nice and clean was NO easy task. All worth it though! Should have this tank up and running by Christmas

Thanks to everyone that contributed!

 

[Andy Sager]

Keep us posted.

 

[805HD]

Things are moving along! Tanks up on the stand, molded the weir, installed the bulk heads, built the sump and dialed in the plumbing! Tank looks killer. Hopefully it holds water

 

[805HD]

Well… I’m back

Tank looked great for all of 24 hours. I was so happy to see it full of water. Today the silicone holding the center cross braces let go and holy moly that was scary. I happened to be standing there when it happened and immediately started draining the tank. As you can see there was some serious deflection about 1/2”. That means that front and rear glass bowed 1/4”!

The center braces are only 4 inches wide. The only thing I can think of is pushing them to 10” wide which is the max I can go while still having access to over flow. And using RTV 108 instead of regular aquarium silicone.

Wider braces mean more surface area. More surface area should equal stronger adhesion right? That and 10 inches wide would get me closer to the center of the tank.

A 10” long 1/2” wide bead of rtv has to have more strength that a 4” bead of regular aquarium silicone at the same thickness!


Anyone got any thoughts?
Should I fill the tank before adhering the cross bracing?

Such a bummer. I am no doubt so lucky I didn’t end up with 170 gallons of water on the floor…

 

[Andy Sager]

Definitely do not fill the tank before the sealant fully cures. To bulge that much makes me wonder if the glass is just too old to retains it's integrity. You can try making the brace wider but I would also consider siliconing it on the inside of the tank and not to the top lip. Use a wider bead of sealant then smooth it so that it extends onto the brace for extra adherence.