Shy fish or incorrect Parameters?

[HardyKeeper]

I have a year-old, and some months, tank, its fully cycled as of 2023 of December 2nd. The only known problem I'm battling right now is an outbreak of Cyanobacteria (I've been hand removing and doing water changes at least once a week). I've recently removed several handfuls of java fern as it was overgrown. The tank is 10 gallons, and has a HOB filter that I wash and occasionally replace once it gets too dirty (covered in cyano or brown algae, for whatever reason) to be effective. There's a bubbler (Without a stone as it had begun to foam at the surface. This may be why they're afraid. I'm not sure. I can reattach the stone to see if it helps.) It also has a 50 watt heater and small black gravel. I have several Java ferns and a few Anubias Nana's. I have a second Anubias plant, but I'm not sure what its called. Its leaves are wider, that I know. I have a small piece of driftwood that I've attached a baby java fern to, it doesn't have any hiding places apart from the leaves. I also have an ornament in the back right corner that all of my fish seem to enjoy hiding in or around. My Neon tetras have lived with me for half a year now, and my shrimp and rasbora have lived with me for a year.

I do also have green spot algae and brown algae that I'm struggling with. I also recently came to terms with an odd kind of worm (teardrop shaped, translucent with light brown and darker colors—I assumed its innards which I later discovered was its 'mouth', and when it came in contact with another of its kind, would 'attack' it by shooting what I could only describe as the second mouth in Alien. I was assured it wasn't a leech, and I wasn't told what it was as the people at MCAquatics didn't know. They, the unknown worm-like creature, haven't bothered my fish, and they seem to live off the detritus worms. I had at the time experimented with what they were susceptible to, and they would die upon contact to salt, and would invert on themselves after sitting in a motionless shallow cup of aquarium water for a few days. They came as small as a detritus worm is wide (and just as white), and as large as a small pinky nail bed is long (larger the 'pinker'). There is a greenhouse and a hydroponic plant system on either side that supply extra light, but I block what I can with clipboards.

I cannot currently remember or think of any other problems that I am or have dealt with that may have left an impact upon my Neon tetras that would cause them to not want to actively swim around. The last water change was done on Monday, September 2nd. My Parameters (Last measured at 6:48 pm, or 1848) goes as follows:

(Parameter kit by API)
GH: 120
KH: 40
PH: 6.5
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 20

(Ammonia parameter kit by API)
(measured at 8:25) Ammonia: 0 ppm

The temperature is at 78 F˚, the only possible fluctuations are during water changes where I use tap from a shower, treated by water conditioner (Aqueon water conditioner, 16.0 fl oz. I may be using too much water conditioner as it claims 5ml is enough to cleanse 10 gallons, and I've been treating 3 per water change. I've heard that could cause problems, I'm not aware of the risks associated with that though.)

My stock:
4 Neon tetras (One died very strangely a month after they settled in; It grew very skinny and milky eyed despite having the same opportunity to eat the same amount as the others.)
1 Dwarf Rasbora (I'm aware it should be in a group of 3-5, I had originally gotten 3, but the stress from the move was too much, and they grew—the only way I can explain this is—opaque, and their capability to swim was extremely horrible. They both died on their own. The remaining fish lived on its own for a few months until I was able to purchase more, but upon looking for Dwarf Rasboras at the store I'd gone to originally, I had found none and ended up getting the neon tetras after looking at two other stores. The Rasbora has since schooled with the neon tetras without issue.)
3 Amano shrimp (These I had gotten with the Rasboras and have thrived on algae wafers and fish flakes that sank to the bottom.)

What I suppose my question is, Why aren't my (seemingly completely healthy) Neon Tetras (and other) swimming around their tank?

(Image of tank included. Mild water damage on particle board from a possible leak that I will likely post another question for help with diagnosing and treating, and from water changes. I will be getting an Aquarium stand and a pothos plant soon.)

 

[Aiken Drum]

Tetras and rasboras are social fish and feel more comfortable when kept in numbers.

3 fish going to be better than 1 fish. 6 fish better than 3. 10 fish better than 6. Etc.

In small numbers They are going to feel stress, and when stressed their behaviour is going to be unpredictable. They may get aggressive towards each other or other species. They may hide away and not feed. They may just make the best of it and just get on with things. But keeping social fish in small numbers isn't healthy for them.

So it's a good bet thar your fish aren't exploring their environment because they are feeling stressed and aren't comfortable. They have found the spot where they feel most comfortable and stay there.

If it where me in a 10 gallon tank, I would pick either the neons or rasboras and keep a single species, slowly increasing the numbers to 10 to 12 fish. If you really want to keep both species, keeping 6 of each would be better than keep 4 of one and 1 of the other.

Your nitrate is quite high for such a low stocked aquarium. How often are you changing water and how much do you change? Be aware thar increasing the number of fish should also be accompanied by changing more water.

What are the water parameters for your tap water?

Using 3ml of your water conditioner isn't going to be an overdose issue. I would normally use enough water conditioner to treat the whole volume of the aquarium, so would be using 5ml with each water change.

If you are having algae problems that's an issue with too much light and nutrients. Doing more water changes should better control nutrients. How long is the aquarium light on for each day? 6 to 8 hours should be the maximum. And I would do what you can to ensure additional light isn't getting in from your adjacent greenhouse.

 

[HardyKeeper]

I've started college a few days ago, so I turn on the light when I leave, and sometimes I forget to turn it off until bedtime. I did measure my tap water a few months ago when I had a dropsy problem with my betta (who passed away, I didn't help him in time). I remember it had high ammonia.

My problem is that I can't find a store who stocks in Dwarf Rasboras. If I could, I would happily buy more, but I'm just not sure if I'll ever find more. How many of each could I afford to buy (room wise)?

I try to do water changes every week, but sometimes I'm too tired to, and I do it a day or two after. My fish do eat, and I just sprinkle the food on top. I could start to wet the flakes I use and syringe feed them a bit at a time to limit food waste and ensure they eat enough, but I don't have the time to anymore.

I use Tetra flakes (24 oz) and Fluval bug bites, and I swap them every few days. (black fly larvae mix, orginally intended for the betta, but while I was trying to see what foods they'd eat, the fish chose the fluval and the fish flakes. I tried to get a granual fish food, but it was too big for their mouths and when I'd crush it to make it easier for them, it'd just dirty the tank, and I'd have a spike of ditritus.) I do have frozen adult brine shrimp I could start to offer them.

I'll absolutely try to do more water changes. Should I aim for twice a week? I don't want to disrupt the cycle by removing too many nutrients from the java ferns and the other plants. I heard from a friend that a Pothos plant makes it so that you don't have to do water changes. Is this true or a myth? I'm skeptical.

 

[Aiken Drum]

I've started college a few days ago, so I turn on the light when I leave, and sometimes I forget to turn it off until bedtime.

Get a plug socket timer so you can control the lighting in a consistent manner without the need for you manually turn them on and off. Start at 8 hours a day for a month or 2, if the algae still isn't reducing cut back a little more. Plants need 6 to 8 hours per day, beyond that you will have issues with algae.

I did measure my tap water a few months ago when I had a dropsy problem with my betta (who passed away, I didn't help him in time). I remember it had high ammonia.

The ammonia will be due to your water being treated with chloramine rather than chlorine. Make sure whatever water conditioner you use treats chloramine.

My problem is that I can't find a store who stocks in Dwarf Rasboras. If I could, I would happily buy more, but I'm just not sure if I'll ever find more. How many of each could I afford to buy (room wise)?

I would just leave the rasbora be. It seems to be making the best of things and trying to be part of the group of neons. It's not ideal, but if you can't get more rasboras there isn't much to be done for it. But I would add a couple more neons, and over a month or 2 get the numbers up. 10 gallon tank can accommodate 10 to 12 small fish like the neons or rasboras you are keeping if you are changing a good amount of water every week.

I'll absolutely try to do more water changes. Should I aim for twice a week?

You shouldn't need to do more than a weekly water change.

When I commented on your nitrate, it's not to say it's too high. I'm just saying it's higher than I'd expect from a small number of small fish in your size aquarium. 20ppm is what most people would consider a safe amount. Having said that, if you are trying to control algae, getting it lower will help. So, changing half the water twice a week for a couple of months should get the nutrients down and help with algae control. Once things are lower you can look at a water change schedule to keep them there. A 50% water change once a week should be sufficient.

However, can you redo the ammonia test on your tap water and let me know what that is. The ammonia will be contributing to higher nitrate.

I don't want to disrupt the cycle by removing too many nutrients from the java ferns and the other plants.

You won't disrupt the cycle by doing water changes. Your fish are constantly producing ammonia that will keep your cycle going.

Plants do need some nitrogen, and most of the plants kept in aquariums get that from nitrate. So you need some nitrate in the water. But the plants you are keeping are low demand and don't need much. As long as there is some nitrate in their I wouldn't worry about it bring too low.

I heard from a friend that a Pothos plant makes it so that you don't have to do water changes. Is this true or a myth? I'm skeptical.

Pothos is a very nutrient hungry plant and will remove a lot of ammonia and nitrate. Maybe all of it. This will help keep your aquarium water clean. But it won't mean you don't need to do water changes as water changes serve other functions than just removing nutrients. It also replenishes essential minerals, and removes organisms that might infect your fish. Keeping pothos can help control things, and you won't might not need to do as many water changes, but I'd still look to do a water change every couple of weeks.