Starting up a 40 Gallon Planted Tank (Looking for suggestions)

[Kphilly25]

Hey all,

I am not completely new to the world of fish keeping but I am newer to planted tanks. I wanted to start this thread to hopefully gain some knowledge, suggestions and opinions from others to hopefully make me a better aquarist. With that being said i'd like to share some of the equipment that I have amassed and hopefully start the conversation.

Tank:

Marineland Open Glass Aquarium 40 Gallon(Petsmart)​

Stand:

Nate & Jeremiah Raven Oak Universal Stand - Up to 75G (Petsmart)​

Light:

Fluval Plant 3.0 LED Planted Aquarium Lighting, 46 Watts, 36-46 Inches​

Filter:

Penn-Plax Cascade All-in-One Aquarium Canister Filter – for Tanks Up to 100 Gallons (265 GPH) – Cascade 1000​

Heater:

MQ Titanium Alloy 300W Aquarium Heater for Salt and Fresh Water, Digital LED Display Submersible Heater with External Thermostat Controller, for Fish Tank 50-60 Gallon​

Heater Controller:

Inkbird Heating Thermostat Aquarium Reptile Submersible Probe Sensor ITC306T Heater Relay Digital Greenhouse Temperature Controller Dual Stage Timer Time Switch ONLY Heat Plug Outlet NO Cooling​

Cycling Bacteria:

Fritz Turbo Start 700 Freshwater (4 oz)​

Strip outlet for electronics:

CRST 12 Outlets Long Power Strip, 9 FT Cord Metal Surge Protector Power Strip with Individual Switches, Wall Mount Power Strip with Cord Manager, 1020J, 15Amp/1875W for Garage,Workshop, Office, Home​

Just a side note, my apartment complex has agreed to install a GFCI outlet for the aquarium so i'll probably have them install it "upstream," from the tank in case a spill were to happen and hit the electronics or wall outlet.

20 Amp Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim Duplex GFCI Outlet, White (Home Depot)​

Had a couple of questions in regards to plants. For starters, does my light seem powerful enough to grow most things? Also, if I do root tabs should I also dose liquid fertilizers?

I will eventually try C02 but wanted to wait until I start getting the hang of things again. I will probably rent C02 cylinders and use this regulator by Green Leaf Aquariums:

GLA PRO-DS-1 Dual Stage CO2 Regulator (Modular Manifold)​

So, tell me what are some of your favorite plant suggestions. Got any live stock ideas?

Been looking at some stocking list(s) playing with some ideas. This isn't set in stone but I wanted to see if I can get a basic blueprint going.

8 dwarf Neon Rainbow fish

2 Blue Acara

4 Green Emerald Corys

3 Reticulated Hillstream loaches

Could I do more than this, or am I already at to much? I kind of would like to stock two types of schooling fish.

 

[Aiken Drum]

First off if you haven't already spoke them I would send that photo to the manufacturer of the stand. While it may say "Upto 75g" stands are designed to direct loads to the floor at the outside edges and you usually want the aquarium to sit flush with the perimeter of the stand so those loads are transmitted in straight lines downwards. Having an aquarium that sits inside the stands might cause the stand to flex, twist the aquarium and cause the glass seams to fail. The stand does have supports in the middle too so it's probably OK, but it's worth an email to the manufacturer to get their opinion. Don't take the word of the store employee, they just want to sell you an oversized stand.

As for plants you really need to decide whether you want to go low tech, low demand plants or high tech, high demand plants. It's not really something you can start off a low tech route then add things like injected CO2 later. Your light will be enough for most plants, even into the high demand end of things, but would be too strong for low tech plants as they simply won't be able to utilise the light levels which would lead to unhealthy growth and algae.

If you wanted to go for a low tech set up, I would probably go for plants like amazon swords, java fern, java moss, anubias and crypts. A standard aquarium light, or yours only operating at maybe 80% strength, weekly all in one liquid fertiliser with your water change, root tabs for swords and crypts.

I'm not really a high tech guy, but if you wanted that route, you may need more lighting depending on the specific light requirements of the plants, injected CO2, specialised planted substrate, and a more thought out nutrient dosing regime. Maybe look into estimative index for dosing.

It's about balance. You want to meet the needs of plants without one element being too much. Plants need nutrients, light and carbon. One of those will be the limiting factor that restricts growth. Too much of either of the other can cause unhealthy growth and algae. Too much light for instance forces plant growth, but if there isn't enough nutrients, growth will be nutrient deficient. Counter intuitive it may be, but limiting light can be beneficial because although it slows growth, the growth will be healthy. It's very much a trial and error process to find that sweet spot of light, nutrients and carbon levels.

 

[Kphilly25]

First off if you haven't already spoke them I would send that photo to the manufacturer of the stand. While it may say "Upto 75g" stands are designed to direct loads to the floor at the outside edges and you usually want the aquarium to sit flush with the perimeter of the stand so those loads are transmitted in straight lines downwards. Having an aquarium that sits inside the stands might cause the stand to flex, twist the aquarium and cause the glass seams to fail. The stand does have supports in the middle too so it's probably OK, but it's worth an email to the manufacturer to get their opinion. Don't take the word of the store employee, they just want to sell you an oversized stand.

As for plants you really need to decide whether you want to go low tech, low demand plants or high tech, high demand plants. It's not really something you can start off a low tech route then add things like injected CO2 later. Your light will be enough for most plants, even into the high demand end of things, but would be too strong for low tech plants as they simply won't be able to utilise the light levels which would lead to unhealthy growth and algae.

If you wanted to go for a low tech set up, I would probably go for plants like amazon swords, java fern, java moss, anubias and crypts. A standard aquarium light, or yours only operating at maybe 80% strength, weekly all in one liquid fertiliser with your water change, root tabs for swords and crypts.

I'm not really a high tech guy, but if you wanted that route, you may need more lighting depending on the specific light requirements of the plants, injected CO2, specialised planted substrate, and a more thought out nutrient dosing regime. Maybe look into estimative index for dosing.

It's about balance. You want to meet the needs of plants without one element being too much. Plants need nutrients, light and carbon. One of those will be the limiting factor that restricts growth. Too much of either of the other can cause unhealthy growth and algae. Too much light for instance forces plant growth, but if there isn't enough nutrients, growth will be nutrient deficient. Counter intuitive it may be, but limiting light can be beneficial because although it slows growth, the growth will be healthy. It's very much a trial and error process to find that sweet spot of light, nutrients and carbon levels.

I think that's good advice, and it wasn't something that I had thought of. I already emailed the manufacturer of the stand to see what they say. While i'm at it, I will also see what they think the recommended weight limits are.

I think my overall goal is to have a couple of carpeting plants and large leaf plants. Reds and other colors are cool too, but I don't have to have them. But I think I need to do some more research. I don't fully understand the work involved. Can you share some pictures of your low tech tank?

 

[Aiken Drum]

This is a 200 litre community tank with amazon swords, crypts, java ferns, anubias and water hyssop.
Nothing fancy technically. Gravel substrate. Upgrade from the stock light to a fluval aquasky and upgrade on the stock filtration to a canister. Weekly water change with Seachem Flourish and root tabs for the swords, crypts and water hyssop.

Thus is my Fluval Flex 57 which I entered into an aquascape contest and came 2nd. Java fern and cabomba. Everything in the aquarium is stock.

 

[Kphilly25]

This is a 200 litre community tank with amazon swords, crypts, java ferns, anubias and water hyssop.View attachment 390474
Nothing fancy technically. Gravel substrate. Upgrade from the stock light to a fluval aquasky and upgrade on the stock filtration to a canister. Weekly water change with Seachem Flourish and root tabs for the swords, crypts and water hyssop.

Thus is my Fluval Flex 57 which I entered into an aquascape contest and came 2nd. Java fern and cabomba. Everything in the aquarium is stock.
View attachment 390475

First off if you haven't already spoke them I would send that photo to the manufacturer of the stand. While it may say "Upto 75g" stands are designed to direct loads to the floor at the outside edges and you usually want the aquarium to sit flush with the perimeter of the stand so those loads are transmitted in straight lines downwards. Having an aquarium that sits inside the stands might cause the stand to flex, twist the aquarium and cause the glass seams to fail. The stand does have supports in the middle too so it's probably OK, but it's worth an email to the manufacturer to get their opinion. Don't take the word of the store employee, they just want to sell you an oversized stand.

As for plants you really need to decide whether you want to go low tech, low demand plants or high tech, high demand plants. It's not really something you can start off a low tech route then add things like injected CO2 later. Your light will be enough for most plants, even into the high demand end of things, but would be too strong for low tech plants as they simply won't be able to utilise the light levels which would lead to unhealthy growth and algae.

If you wanted to go for a low tech set up, I would probably go for plants like amazon swords, java fern, java moss, anubias and crypts. A standard aquarium light, or yours only operating at maybe 80% strength, weekly all in one liquid fertiliser with your water change, root tabs for swords and crypts.

I'm not really a high tech guy, but if you wanted that route, you may need more lighting depending on the specific light requirements of the plants, injected CO2, specialised planted substrate, and a more thought out nutrient dosing regime. Maybe look into estimative index for dosing.

It's about balance. You want to meet the needs of plants without one element being too much. Plants need nutrients, light and carbon. One of those will be the limiting factor that restricts growth. Too much of either of the other can cause unhealthy growth and algae. Too much light for instance forces plant growth, but if there isn't enough nutrients, growth will be nutrient deficient. Counter intuitive it may be, but limiting light can be beneficial because although it slows growth, the growth will be healthy. It's very much a trial and error process to find that sweet spot of light, nutrients and carbon levels.

So, I called about the stand and they said the weight would be fine but as far as flexing they couldn’t say. So, I called the aquarium manufacturer and they said typically it would need to be flush at all the corners, however I would have to ask the stand company. I’ve decided to just tank the stand back, I can get a full refund.

But now I need to find something reliable. I saw this:

Tatub 40-50 Gallon Fish Tank Stand with Cabinet, Metal Aquarium Stand for Accessories Storage, Reptile Tank Turtle Terrariums Table Bearable 1000LBS, Accommodates 2 Aquariums

 

[Aiken Drum]

I think you did the right thing by asking the questions. Neither the manufacturer of the stand or tank will give you any kind of assurance that their product is compatible with the other. The question to put to the tank manufacturer would be what do they recommend? In the UK we are more used to having tanks and stands being sold together rather than being able to buy generic 40 gallon aquariums and stands separately, which is a bit of a shame for us as it restricts our choice, but we do get some assurance that what we get works together. If I wanted to get a standard 40 gallon aquarium like yours I'd have to get it custom made.

The stand you have identified has a metal frame, so it will transfer loads differently to a typically built stand and I'd be more comfortable it won't flex, but I'd check the dimensions as the aquarium you bought I think is a standard 40 gallon at 48" long and the stand is i think 36.6" long. So the stand would be suited for a "40 gallon breeder" or "40 gallon high" tank. Maybe they make a longer stand for a 48" aquarium?

 

[Kphilly25]

My tank is the 40 gallon breeder. It's 36" long. I did find this stand for it. Doesn't look as great, but may work better>

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D1DWY135/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?pd_rd_i=B0D1DWY135&pd_rd_w=sly3w&content-id=amzn1.sym.f2f1cf8f-cab4-44dc-82ba-0ca811fb90cc&pf_rd_p=f2f1cf8f-cab4-44dc-82ba-0ca811fb90cc&pf_rd_r=7AC23XKXYMCYD531BEKD&pd_rd_wg=jtf5x&pd_rd_r=78bced49-c34d-4794-a169-24236b1a7eed&s=sporting-goods&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

 

[Kphilly25]

I think you did the right thing by asking the questions. Neither the manufacturer of the stand or tank will give you any kind of assurance that their product is compatible with the other. The question to put to the tank manufacturer would be what do they recommend? In the UK we are more used to having tanks and stands being sold together rather than being able to buy generic 40 gallon aquariums and stands separately, which is a bit of a shame for us as it restricts our choice, but we do get some assurance that what we get works together. If I wanted to get a standard 40 gallon aquarium like yours I'd have to get it custom made.

The stand you have identified has a metal frame, so it will transfer loads differently to a typically built stand and I'd be more comfortable it won't flex, but I'd check the dimensions as the aquarium you bought I think is a standard 40 gallon at 48" long and the stand is i think 36.6" long. So the stand would be suited for a "40 gallon breeder" or "40 gallon high" tank. Maybe they make a longer stand for a 48" aquarium?

So, I reckon I have some good news. I got back with Marineland and they kind of gave me some direction to go off of to call Sauder back with. Marineland told me that they make their stands to be load bearing at the corners of the stand, and that I need to ask Sauder how the load bearing works on theirs. Well, I called them back and asked that specifically and they said that the top distributes all the weight equally and down through the legs. They said just don't use anything bigger than a 75 gallon tank. They also told me that they are partnered with top fine so they typically sell the stand with the 55 and 75 gallon tank. However, the stand can handle smaller tanks easily. They told me just to make sure the stand is level and to center the 40 gallon breeder and i should be completely fine. It's also made out of MDF board.