Stocking Question 20 Gallon. With context/background.

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aflexas

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Jun 10, 2025
Messages
13
Location
Michigan
Hi all. I am planning to get my dad some fish for father’s day, he is letting me choose what to stock the tank with. It is a 20 gallon hex tall. That being said we have had some issues with the tank in the past.

sorry it’s long.
My dad originally had a 55 gallon hex tall tank, for maybe 15 years? Over the time it has gotten wore down, it is a tank attached to a base. He didn’t want to rescape tank. So he just bought a new one. There was still fish in the tank though. There were neons, 1 zebra danio, a few tiger barbs, and an ANCIENT silver dollar, almost as old as me. (I know silver dollars are schooling and not really appropriately sized for a 55 tall but my dad doesn’t really research before buying most.)

However i wasn’t with him when he went shopping for it so he ended up getting the 20 gallon mentioned above. It was those tank kits so prolly a good deal. So i knew this tank was gonna be overstocked now.
When we moved the fish over, it actually went well: we transferred the filter media, some of the water and only a few decorations. No fish deaths during tank swap.
A few weeks later my dad went to the store to buy a “cleanup crew” even though his tank was full basically. Bought a BN pleco and a single corydora. (Facepalm. Why’d the store sell him one :/ )
THENN the fish started dying. The new CUC definitely introduced ich, completely wiping out the tank. My dad was really bummed, some of the fish were several years old. Only the nerite snail survived, after several doses of ich medication he kept dumping in there. (the water was a deep blue so i’m thinking he used that methylene stuff.)

Short version: Impulsive purchases lead to mass fish deaths.

Now we are here much later with an fishless tank wondering what to stock it with. I know there isn’t as much wiggle room for stocking bc it’s tall. I was thinking harlequin or chili rasboras, as they are small. For cuc i as thinking some blue velvet neocardinias or otocinclus, as there’s a lot of soft, flowy algae on the plants that the nerite seems to ignore. It grows fast because it’s near a large window. I feel like he would like a center piece fish, but also know that with bettas/gouramis tall tanks can be an issue since they are labyrinth breathers. We also have hard water. We have a water softner but even then my own tanks are covered in hard water stains. I can post parameters later. Any thoughts?
 
If your water is hard i would look at livebearers.

Even though your water is going through a water softener, softeners don't actually lower mineral content, they just remove minerals that contribute to general hardness (calcium and magnesium) and replace those minerals with a different mineral, usually sodium. Generally sodium isn't a good idea in freshwater aquariums. Some fish are going to be tolerant to sodium and some fish aren't, and the fish that are tolerant to sodium are going to be fish that suit hard water.

The general recommendation from water softener manufacturers is to not use water that's gone through a softener in aquariums and to bypass the softener.

If you are still suffering from hard water stains either your softener isn't working properly or there is a source of calcium in the aquarium. I would test both your tap water and tank water for GH to find out which, and knowing total disolved solids (TDS) might not be a bad thing.

If you have been treating for ich, unless you are very sure you eradicated the parasites, I would either break the system down and bleach treat it, or raise the temperature to 30c and medicate for a couple of weeks, or let it run fishless for at least a month to ensure your aquarium is parasite free.

For info, only fish can be infected by ich. Inverts cant be infected, although a lot of ich medication can kill inverts.

Given you have already bought ich infected fish, if you are still buying from the same store a quarantine tank is essential to ensure only parasite free fish are going in your display tank.
 
If your water is hard i would look at livebearers.

Even though your water is going through a water softener, softeners don't actually lower mineral content, they just remove minerals that contribute to general hardness (calcium and magnesium) and replace those minerals with a different mineral, usually sodium. Generally sodium isn't a good idea in freshwater aquariums. Some fish are going to be tolerant to sodium and some fish aren't, and the fish that are tolerant to sodium are going to be fish that suit hard water.

The general recommendation from water softener manufacturers is to not use water that's gone through a softener in aquariums and to bypass the softener.

If you are still suffering from hard water stains either your softener isn't working properly or there is a source of calcium in the aquarium. I would test both your tap water and tank water for GH to find out which, and knowing total disolved solids (TDS) might not be a bad thing.

If you have been treating for ich, unless you are very sure you eradicated the parasites, I would either break the system down and bleach treat it, or raise the temperature to 30c and medicate for a couple of weeks, or let it run fishless for at least a month to ensure your aquarium is parasite free.

For info, only fish can be infected by ich. Inverts cant be infected, although a lot of ich medication can kill inverts.

Given you have already bought ich infected fish, if you are still buying from the same store a quarantine tank is essential to ensure only parasite free fish are going in your display tank.
Good to know. I didn’t know that much about water softeners and how it really affected our water quality. Thanks!!
And I can definitely raise the temp to ensure the ich is gone. Should I take out the nerite when raising the temp? It’s been empty for a month and a half now. And I can set up a quarantine tank for sure, I have an empty 10 gallon which i’m sure could work okay for livebearers temporarily.
 
If the aquarium has had no fish in it for 6 weeks at tropical aquarium temperature then you should be clear of ich. At that temperature, with no hosts the parasites should be completely gone in 3 or 4 weeks. That's as sure as you are going to get to being ich free.
 
If the aquarium has had no fish in it for 6 weeks at tropical aquarium temperature then you should be clear of ich. At that temperature, with no hosts the parasites should be completely gone in 3 or 4 weeks. That's as sure as you are going to get to being ich free.
Oh okay. Thanks so much for your help!
 
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