Brown on sand getting worse and worse

[tnice17]

Started to get this brown on the sand and in one spot the dreaded red slime but it wasnt bad at all. I have been doing 10-15 g PWC biweekly. Ammonia is 0. Nitrites 0 nitrates 0.

Tank has had livestock for about 6 months now. Readings always stayed at 0. 20 gal sump. Prob 50lbs love rock total. HOB aquaC remora fed by a T in my return. As good flow. Lights are on for about 8-10 hrs depending on the antics. 6 T5HO 39w 36" bulbs on the display. 2 T5HO on the sump 24w 18" I believe. I use an RO/DI system too

This pic shows its not that bad but come a week it'a way worse. Been going on for about a month or a little bit more. when i vac it out it just comes right back. What can I do differently? Please help.

 

[tnice17]

My skimmer doing more of a wet skim and produces more light water vs a heavy brown skim with less water--- if that matters

 

[Khij159753]

What size tank? What's the stock? Do you know phosphate level?

 

[tnice17]

What size tank? What's the stock? Do you know phosphate level?

46 gal bow

5 fish, shrimp, snails, big brittle star fish, scallop, clam, mushrooms, acrophora, button polyps.

No I don't think I have one, phosphate I mean. Should probably get on that huh?

 

[Khij159753]

Yeah. It probably has to do with the phosphates.

 

[tnice17]

Yeah. It probably has to do with the phosphates.

Just picked up a test kit.

The lighting makes it hard to read in person and in the pic but its between 0-.25

 

[tnice17]

Also picked up a TDS meter


My 30g tank of sitting fresh water reads 25ppm

The water coming out of my RO/DI reads 30-70PPM

My tap water is 270PPM.

 

[obscurereef]

I've never heard of diatoms feeding off of phosphates, but I have heard them feeding off of nitrates and of course silicates. You stir the sand when cleaning? Sand can contain silicates and when disturbed those silicates are released and consumed by diatoms. I recommend not touching the sand. Maybe weekly water changes would help too. How long have you had the filters for the RO/DI?

 

[22engine]

Also picked up a TDS meter

My 30g tank of sitting fresh water reads 25ppm

The water coming out of my RO/DI reads 30-70PPM

My tap water is 270PPM.

Those are high numbers and likely the cause. Might need new filters for the RO/DI. Really want to be one or less from what I have read

 

[Rosesrblu1]

When you distrub the brown stuff on the sand, does it come off like a mat? Is it a bit fuzzy?

 

[tnice17]

When you distrub the brown stuff on the sand, does it come off like a mat? Is it a bit fuzzy?

Not fuzzy.

I suck it up when I do a PWC and it comes off cleanly, won't come off like a mat (doesn't come off like cyano does) but lets say I use my 1/4" hose- a 3/8 diameter area will come with.

 

[Rosesrblu1]

Think mine started like that too. What lights are you running? I have found that lowering the intensity of my whites has curtailed the issue and I am dosing carbon to lower the nutrient levels.

 

[tnice17]

I am running 6 T5HO bulbs on my display. 39w each 36 inches in length. 3 white 10ks, 2 blue antics, and 1 purple coral bulb (came with fixture)

My 20g long sump has 2 T5HO bulbs. 1 10k, 1 blue antic. 18" long 24w I think

Antics on display tank/sump lights are on for 11hrs a day, display tank lights are on for 8hrs. 1.5hr overlap for the night/day effect with the antics coming on first and going off last

 

[CorallineAlgae]

You may want to change out the white bulbs for fresh ones. I know 8 months isn't a very long time but you can see if it helps and if not you can use the old ones fir the remainder of their life and still have the new ones for when you need them. Some fixtures have mediocre lamps.

You really should change out the filters in your RO. If you have a 50gpd membrane or less you could upgrade it to a 75gpd one and get the correct flow restrictor to make sure it works. I once had my flow restrictor seize up on me and that raised my TDS pretty bad until I got a new one. A 75gpd membrane has a higher rejection rate than slower ones so it'll make better water in addition to more. Just something to think about.

You could also try some ChemiPure Elite to help with the phosphates.

 

[tnice17]

You may want to change out the white bulbs for fresh ones. I know 8 months isn't a very long time but you can see if it helps and if not you can use the old ones fir the remainder of their life and still have the new ones for when you need them. Some fixtures have mediocre lamps.

You really should change out the filters in your RO. If you have a 50gpd membrane or less you could upgrade it to a 75gpd one and get the correct flow restrictor to make sure it works. I once had my flow restrictor seize up on me and that raised my TDS pretty bad until I got a new one. A 75gpd membrane has a higher rejection rate than slower ones so it'll make better water in addition to more. Just something to think about.

You could also try some ChemiPure Elite to help with the phosphates.

The bulbs aren't exactly cheap as u know. If that's the case I'd rather spend an extra 100 and get those LED flood lights and be done with it. The LEDs won't die out as these bulbs do right?

My RO/DI unit is that 5 stage eBay one. 100gpd. I might as well just get a new one, no? My water pressure is 55psi too.

My phosphates tested low is that ok? Still need to use that additive anyway...?

 

[CorallineAlgae]

You would need to either hang the floodlights or have a hood canopy to use floodlights. They sell saltwater sets of them on eBay that come with a white and a blue. You wouldn't need to change them out for years. They get a little hot so I use a fan in my canopy to keep em cool. May be easier to just get fresh lamps for the fixture you have.

You don't need a new to but some fresh filters are a good idea. You can find all of them online at bulk reef supply.

You don't have to use Chemi-pure. The algae is likely to be from your RO or lights.

 

[Gregcoyote]

IMO, one of the main problems is phosphate. Yes, silica can be a contributor, but I think the organics level is too high in this tank. You clear out Cyano by increasing flow, reducing organics and silicates along with better filtration and less feeding. Soft corals need phosphate under .1 and other corals need is under .05. Most test kits other than Hanna do not show levels this low accurately. Even a small amount of phosphate or ammonia can cause corals to crash. As they crash, guess what, they release more phosphates and ammonia. Your makeup water can be a major contributor to this problem.

 

[tnice17]

I feed maybe 3 times a week and only a pinch full. 5 fish need to share so I eye ball how much each one gets and make adjustments.

I add phyto-plex for my filter feeders, calcium when needed.

I think I will try to lower my hours that the lights are on first.

I adjusted my protein skimmer for a more dark skim vs the wet light skim I was getting. See if that helps too, idk

Keep doing PWCs too.

 

[Gregcoyote]

I feed maybe 3 times a week and only a pinch full. 5 fish need to share so I eye ball how much each one gets and make adjustments.

I add phyto-plex for my filter feeders, calcium when needed.

I think I will try to lower my hours that the lights are on first.

I adjusted my protein skimmer for a more dark skim vs the wet light skim I was getting. See if that helps too, idk

Keep doing PWCs too.

What are you filter feeding?

 

[tnice17]

My clam and scallop are filter feeders so I add Phyto-Plex by Kent Marine

I stopped ever since this algae started but why should I add nutrients and plankton to my water when the algae is from too many nutrients! Lol