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Old 04-04-2006, 07:41 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by TCTfish
Any less lighting on this tank and the anemone could lose more zooanthellae algae than what is produced and that's fatal over time.
I'm aware of those possibilities. What I'm saying is most of the time, between being in the dark during shipping, etc. and LFS being notorious for having insufficient and/or old lighting set ups, having strong, new bulbs may be too much too fast regardless of WPG, etc. The anemone may need some time to "catch up" w/ all the changes.
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Old 04-05-2006, 08:17 AM   #12
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TCTFish, did you find anything out from your roommate?
He asked what type of lights you have. He's also not very familiar with T5 lights. Behavior of the clowns toward the anemone didn't phase him. I'm anticipating the temp. results
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Old 04-05-2006, 11:58 AM   #13
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At midway position down in the tank, temp from the lighting will have little if any effect on the anemone if the meen temp is 78°. The light intensity in and of itself as MT79 pointed out would. If the anemone was purchased from a low out put tank and then added to yours being much higher, the anemone would suffer light shock. Animals must be acclimated to higher light output or variations in kelvin no different than corals.

Water acclimation is a possibility but considering it's reactions are light sensitive, I would not as concerned about it. Also, discontinue the Strontium additions. If it gets too high (not testing properly) it will interfere with getting an accurate alkalinity reading and slows algae production.

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Old 04-05-2006, 12:18 PM   #14
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No Thermometer yet, hopefully today.

Steve-s, I was able to talk to the LFS and their lighting is definitely not as bright as mine. I never even thought about "light acclimating" I feel so bad! It's probably like taking someone that never goes outside and putting them in a tanning bed. LOL.

I drip acclimated him per advice from these forums and other sites, so am kinda ruling that out. Especially since he looks sooo good at night. I will halt the Strontium additions until I get a tester for it. The LFS never mentioned this, they just said to add it every week.

Yesterday, he did expand a little more during the "daylight" cycle. I'll keep you guys posted on the progress.
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Old 04-05-2006, 12:19 PM   #15
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Maybe it's a vampire BTA! LOL!! Sorry, couldn't resist...
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Old 04-05-2006, 01:31 PM   #16
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I hate to tell you this bro but I had a BTA do this to me after I had it for a few months. And he began to wither away slowley but surley. At one point I took him to one of my friends tanks to see if that would help any but it died. We could not figure out what was wrong for this to happen. All my levels were good and the rest of my tank was doing very well. I have no clue what happend. Good luck bro
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Old 04-05-2006, 04:20 PM   #17
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LMAO Roka. If I start seeing pale fish corpses floating in the water I'll let you know.

accorddude, sorry for your loss! I sure hope I don't have the same situation......
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Old 04-05-2006, 04:37 PM   #18
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I was able to talk to the LFS and their lighting is definitely not as bright as mine. I never even thought about "light acclimating" I feel so bad! It's probably like taking someone that never goes outside and putting them in a tanning bed. LOL.
Shading the light source a bit may help it's transition, or even elevating the lights. Sometimes with fluorescent lights specifically simpley altering the photoperiod length (shorter) may help. It really depends on the anemones initial reaction to the light when it first comes on.

If it shrinks back almost immediately and stays that way throughout, shading/elevating the light would be the best approach.

If it starts reacting sometime well after the lights have come on, make note of the time and possibley cut back the time the lights are on. It can then be increased slowly by ½hr every few days until the anemone has adjusted. If you have the ability to control the lights seperately (dawn/dusk type), consider only using one for a few short hours midway in the photoperiod and the other for the full period. Same thing, just increase the duration slowly over a few days each time by ½hr until your back to normal.

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Old 04-05-2006, 09:35 PM   #19
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Update! The Anenome has done a complete 180 on its expanding. It is now fully open when the lights are on and closed up more during the nighttime. I think you guys hit it head on with the light acclimation thing. Here are a couple pics, let me know what you think! Now if only I could get rid of that algae..... hehe.
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Old 04-06-2006, 02:06 AM   #20
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Van, I am thinking of getting an anemone as well. I have a 55G with softees (xenia, kenya tree, bubble coral, and hammer coral), mushrooms, polyps, and a finger leather. I also have a maroon clown (about two inches big) I've had for about 6 months now. Finally, a small Blue Hippo Tang I've had for 8 months (3.5 inches currently).

I am thinking between BTA or Carpet anemone. Any advice?

My nitrates stay at zero, phosphates between zero and 0.25, calcium at 420, temp between 78 - 81F, and I have 4x65W Compact Fluorescents with moon lights at night.

I would like to know from you or anyone what my pros and cons are for acquiring an anemone.

Also, how difficult is it to feed it? How often? If I don't feed it frozen feeds for 4 days (but suppliment strontium/molybdenum) would it live?

How often do they split?

What are the benefits and drawbacks of having either a BTA or Carpet anemone? I would like to introduce one before the maroon gets bored and starts trying to host the sensitive bubble coral.

Thanks.
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