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Old 03-02-2004, 08:29 PM   #11
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Well got it up and running.....

Water going into RO 220 TDS, water coming out...15, I expect 0 or 1 out of the DI. Just a FYI, the water out of the DI read 50 when I first tested, I was really disappointed, then I thought, "Hey stupid, rinse the glass out with the RO water, did it three consecutive times and it comes out 15, so make sure you rinse your glass in the water your testing before you test!!

I am hoping the TDS will go down as the tank flushes more. For how the solenoid and pressure switch are set up...look at my booster pump thread, just updated it. The diagram I have shows a check valve at the RO discharge, doesn't specify anywhere else, but the diagram that shows the check valve is for a straight RO system not an RO DI. I know when I make RO/DI water...I plan to turn the ball valve off on the pressure tank and turn it back on when I'm done
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:27 PM   #12
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When I got my RO/DI unit I had to run 12 gallons threw it, with out the DI Resin. So it would not be contaminated by the junk on the new membrane. After the membrane was flushed, I put the DI Resin in and I always get a TDS reading of 0.
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Old 03-02-2004, 09:42 PM   #13
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100 gallons threw it,
Everything I've ever read has said a few gallons is all that's needed to flush the presevatives. I filled my pressure tank twice and discharged it, about 6-8 gallons, now it's time to make some DI water
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Old 03-02-2004, 10:17 PM   #14
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Hmmm, I just started making DI water, turned the valve off at the tank and running through the sediment filters and then the RO then the DI, my initial DI water was 50ppm 8O after running it for a few minutes it dropped to 20, but the water in the tank is still 15. This really makes no sense, I suppose the DI had to be filled with the water with the preservatives for the membrane, but how long should it take to flush? I'm gonna let it run down the drain and periodically test it see what I get. if it is not giving good results after a few hours of flushing I'll be on the phone to filterdirect. It has to be a flushing issue though, there is no reason for the DI water to be higher than the straight RO, you can't make me believe the post RO carbon filter removes more TDS than the DI.
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Old 03-03-2004, 12:50 AM   #15
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Let it run a while. I think you'll see the levels drop. New DI cart and all. Mine did something like that at first. I don't think I flushed it long enough as I went through the first DI cart in just a few weeks. Since I changed it, this one seems like it's going to last a lot longer. TDS is a little high when I first start the unit, but it rapidly drops to 0.
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Old 03-03-2004, 11:23 AM   #16
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Reefrunner, what is your results. I talked to the FilterDirect guy again and he mentioned that some DI resin that they shipped with is not good. That is why I am getting like 40% rejection. He is sending me a better one next week. Just like to compare as well, what is the manufacturer or part number of your DI resin. If mine is the same DI, and you are getting good rejection, then something is wrong with my setup.

But thanks for the idea. I will try to shutoff the ball valve at the tank and then turn my DI ball valve open. What is your flow rate through the DI when you shutoff the ball valve at your tank. Mine is a slow stream of water.

When I did the experiment in my previous post getting the 12ppm out of DI, I actually empty the tank my turning my Ro faucet full on until the water stop flowing. Then I turn off my RO faucet and turn on the DI ball valve. However, I never close the Tank ball vlave though. But this should be the same as the water will then flow from the tap through RO/DI right? I still got 12ppm!!!

Is 12ppm ok for my fish tank???/
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Old 03-03-2004, 01:55 PM   #17
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Sorry for the repeated post, seems like the website is repeating my previous post at differemt time. Weird.

Ok, Reefrunner, that is what I experience when I started this thread. The DI someitmes read higher than the RO ppm. It make no sense to me as well. I flush out about 15 gallons already, still read 12ppm at my RO/DI, and 20ppm at RO. I washed my glass with RO/UV water that reads 3ppm. but results the same- 12ppm at RO/DI.

FilterDirect said that the DI resin comes with recent unit is not good. Rejection is bad. They are sending me new onw next week. But let get the serial number and the model for your DI and let compare. I suspect is the same DI since we got our unit about the same time.
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Old 03-03-2004, 04:31 PM   #18
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Is 12ppm ok for my fish tank???/
Yes, you might experience a tad more algae than if the DI was filtering correctly, but to be honest, if your concerned use the water that measures 3ppm

I looked and did not see a part number or serial number on my DI cart. Where on the label is it located, if I can get to it without tearing it apart, I'll get it and post it here.
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Old 03-03-2004, 05:36 PM   #19
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Reefrunner, what is your results. I talked to the FilterDirect guy again and he mentioned that some DI resin that they shipped with is not good. That is why I am getting like 40% rejection. He is sending me a better one next week. Just like to compare as well, what is the manufacturer or part number of your DI resin. If mine is the same DI, and you are getting good rejection, then something is wrong with my setup.
I'm certain it is the DI, I folloowed the instalation instructions to a tee and went over them again and again to make sure it was flowing the way it should. FWIW, I get 15 ppm out of the RO and I get 16 out of the DI. The accuracy of my handheld unit is ±1, so basically it is the same reading. I get 0% rejection from my DI. I spoke with Oscar at filterdirect this afternoon and he said I should be getting 0-5 after the DI, he is sending me a new one as well. FWIW, the service from this company has been outstanding, they have answered every email and want to get my filter right.
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Old 03-04-2004, 12:38 PM   #20
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This is the picture of my DI resin
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