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Old 11-10-2014, 07:37 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffaquarius View Post
This is what the OP said today.
"No I just put the bleached rocks into old saltwater tank. I have no more LR in my tank. I didn't put raw shrimp, as thoses rocks are leaching ammonia..."
Obviously, you did missed something or did I?
Sorry, I mean I've put the bleached rocks in a 5g bucket with a powerhead then added old tank saltwater...

The tank is still cycled even if I removed the 20 pounds of LR... I feed my fishs as I would do normally, and I feed my corals once a week. No NH3 or NO2 spikes... So I don't think I need to put thoses rocks back to the tank...
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If you insist that the tank has enough bacteria then you simply mean that you do not need the rocks back in the tank.
But the tank look so much UGLY like that... And the clowns doesn't have a home anymode (hiding places)

Before


After


So my questions was should I wait for the complete mix of BB on the rocks, or should I just rinse the rocks until ammonia read zero...

Cycled seems to have started, nitrites were 0ppm there's two days, yesterday it was between 0 and 0.25, today it's between 0.25 - 0.5ppm... It just started as I raised the bucket water from 21C to 28.5C and added 1/4 cup of my live sand...
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Old 11-11-2014, 12:52 PM   #62
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The key to success in reef keeping is patience. You just have to wait until the nitrite is reduced and close to zero. Changing water will just even slow it down cause you need those ammonia to feed your beneficial bacteria. Let the bacteria remove ammonia and not by changing water.
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Old 11-11-2014, 01:00 PM   #63
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Sorry, I mean I've put the bleached rocks in a 5g bucket with a powerhead then added old tank saltwater...

The tank is still cycled even if I removed the 20 pounds of LR... I feed my fishs as I would do normally, and I feed my corals once a week. No NH3 or NO2 spikes... So I don't think I need to put thoses rocks back to the tank...

But the tank look so much UGLY like that... And the clowns doesn't have a home anymode (hiding places)

Before


After


So my questions was should I wait for the complete mix of BB on the rocks, or should I just rinse the rocks until ammonia read zero...

Cycled seems to have started, nitrites were 0ppm there's two days, yesterday it was between 0 and 0.25, today it's between 0.25 - 0.5ppm... It just started as I raised the bucket water from 21C to 28.5C and added 1/4 cup of my live sand...
You said it yourself, the tank is fully cycled. I stand by my statement that theres no reason to wait to cycle the rocks. Just finish curing them (wait until they stop leechin ammonia) and put them back in the tank.
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Old 11-11-2014, 01:12 PM   #64
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The length of time will be the same for ammonia to stop leaching when curing or cycling. So why settle for rocks with no bacteria?
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Old 11-11-2014, 01:36 PM   #65
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The lengt of time will be the same for ammonia to stop leaching when curing or cycling. So why settle for rocks with no bacteria?
Not gonna keep arguing about this with someone that's arguing just because they enjoy it. I said I stand by my original statement and I am going to leave it at that.
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Old 11-11-2014, 04:20 PM   #66
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I think I'll go with the lazy way... Wait until ammonia and nitrites read zero, then 100% water changes, then wait nitrates to stop raising to prevent potential main tank algae explosion. There's a LOT of dead stuff in thoses rocks... There was an infestations of brittle stars and bristles worms in it... Without counting the massive population of amphipods and snails hidden in the rocks...

I assume cycled rocks doesn't mean they stop leeching ammonia (converting straight to nitrates when released)...
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:34 AM   #67
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And what about phosphates ? I have nothing to read NO3/PO4 (API test kits count like nothing for thoses params lol).
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:43 AM   #68
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When you don't get any reading for NO3 during cycling it only means you still do not have the type of bacteria responsible for consuming nitrite.
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:49 AM   #69
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When you don't get any reading for NO3 during cycling it only means you still do not have the type of bacteria responsible for consuming nitrite.
Yes, but I mean... API test kits can read >40 ppm of nitrates... That's not a problem... But I don't want any traces of nitrates or phosphates in my main tank, this will result an algae bloom... The light is so strong (R420R)...
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Old 11-12-2014, 10:57 AM   #70
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And what about phosphates ? I have nothing to read NO3/PO4 (API test kits count like nothing for thoses params lol).
The only way to know is to get a better quality test kit. Personally, ive never had any issues with freshly bleached rock leeching phosphate over a long period of time.
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