Lights out?

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pat8you

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Apr 30, 2007
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Location
Woodbridge, Va
If i turn my lights out for a couple days to slow down some algae i got going on will this stress out my coral to much? Do you think it will actauly get rid of the algae? How many days should i keep the lights off ( i was thinking 2 maybe 3)? see below for a list of corals.
 
Geeze, I really don't know man. I know that a few days of lights-out is fine for the fish in FW tanks, but coral may be different. I'm interested to find out. I imagine it would be okay, it does get dark for a few days where coral grows just like plants so I don't see why they'd be different but I really have no idea.
 
The corals should be able to tolerate a 2 or 3 day black out, but they might get a little stressed.

The lack of light will probably cause a major die-off of some nuisance algae and cyanobacteria. HOWEVER...

The factors which permit the algae to live and thrive (i.e., nutrients like nitrate and phosphate) will continue to exist in the water after the 2-3 day black out. It's probably better to address the root problem of the algae.
 
Yeah i know I'm not fixing the root of the problem. I'm still trying to figure out what that is exactly. I've cut back on feedings (once a day and small. all food is finished) been doing regular water changes. probably at least 20% a week. and still no results. I'm open for suggestions on anything else i might be able to do. The only other thing i can think of is that its the pre mix water i buy from the LFS so next time i go in i will just buy the ro/di fresh and mix it myself. I have a feeling that its just because its such a small tank the it feeds on the nitrates. I don't have a sump to put macro in and i don't have room for a skimmer. : ( This is just a fix until i can mix my own water and while i figure out whats going on.
 
Same issue here , I modified my lighting to 3 hours aday just enough to get the corals open up and to see it . At the end of the 3 days (perhaps more depending on the fall of it )I will do another 50% water change upon the one I did on saturday . (Actually it will be about 1 week out of light) I only have one or 2 patches of green hair algea and more of a brown string algea else where , I feel it is partial diatoms that will burn out but I think with the extra water changes and the modified lighting it cant hurt at the end of this week I will change out my pads (used 2 weeks ) and replace with all new media such as purigen , chemi pure and phosguard along with the carbon .... I my root came from lighting upgrade and also people (me included ) over feeding :) I have moved the food to the kitchen so I have to think about it when I feed :) It is just some times hard to see lilfish sitting there begging . I have gone to 1x a week feedings and we all seem happy :)
 
Yeah i know I'm not fixing the root of the problem. I'm still trying to figure out what that is exactly.

While I'm not a real fan of "nanos" (although with a 46g, some may consider THAT a nano!), I'd have to think that keeping 2 clowns and a jawfish in a 12g is the root of your problem.

Seems like most folks that keep nanos in good shape have about one fish in them, if that, or are doing water changes several times a week. They are not a good sized tank to start the hobby with.
 
actually i have to update that. the jawfish didn't make it through acclimation. I think one of my clown fish was bullying him is well. Your right though the jawfish was probably pushing it. I am just going to stick with the two clowns. I wish i could do something besides a nano but that is all money and space will allow.

Thanks for you help everyone. I'll try going dark for a couple days and see how it goes.
 
You really can be feeding every other day with no problems as well. I would cut back on the feedings. What are you feeding btw? Frozen foods should be well-rinsed before adding to the tank, if you are not doing that already.
 
Put the cube in a small container of water, thaw, then drain the water off before feeding. Some folks will go an extra step and add water again and then drain it off a second time.
 
I agree with most of what has been said here so far. I would definately stop getting premixed SW from the LFS, even buying their RO/DI is risky because they may not change their filters as frequently as they should. Testing the RO/DI water you get from them with a TDS meter will help you to know what quality water you are getting.

With a 12g nano I would be doing at least 2 PWCs a week especially since you don't have a skimmer on the tank. Feeding is a topic that is all over the place. I have gone back to feeding 1 time a day and have had no issues with it. On a small tank like that with only 2 clowns you should only feed what they consume quickly. Small amounts at a time to make sure they aren't leaving food in the tank. Also what kind of cleaning crew do you have in the tank? If you don't have very many snails I would suggest adding some. Having 12 snail in the tank is a good idea. Typically you want 1 snail per gallon of water. A good cleaning crew will help to elimnate any extra food in the tank that your clowns miss.

Reducing your photo is a good idea but as was stated it is only a quick fix and not going to solve the problem. Do you test your water for Nitrates and Phosphates? If you don't then I suggest doing some tests and see what's going on in there.
 
Whats a TDS meter?

I've only been doing very small feedings. what they can finish in about 1 min or so. But i think i will cut that back to every other day like everyone has suggested and see how that goes.

4x nassarius snails. up till a day or two ago i have 4 mexican turbo snails but two died on me and i havn't seen the third in a day or two which has me a little worried. 3x blue leg hermits and 2x astrial snails. I was actually going to go in some time in the next day or two to pick up a bit bigger crew since its getting a little small.

I test for nitrates but i need a more accurate test and i'm thinking i will pick up a PO4 test when i get the crew.

I'm considering building a sump (maybe 10gal) when i move my tank back home and have the tools to build it. That way i would have plenty of room for a skimmer and possibly a small fuge. Any thoughts?
 
Cleaning crew.

Add astrea snails to your crew. If you can afford it get 6 of them small ones if they have them at your LFS. They will help on the algae. Hermits can and will kill your snails so just be aware of that.

Adding a 10 sump with a fuge is a GREAT idea. You will be nearly doubling your total water volume which will help you dilute any potential issues in your system. Adding a skimmer is also a great idea.
 
Thanks i'll see if my LFS has them when i go. I have some extra shells for them to grow into to try and cut back on the amount of snail murders going on. The turbos would have been way way to big for them to want their shells though. would they just kill them for something to eat?

I should be able to build a sump for fairly cheap once i get home. I'm still thinking about the best way to do it though since i have one of those prepackaged all in one nano cubes. I think i would have to drill out some holes in the back to work out the plumbing.
 
Well the trick you are going to have is getting the water to overflow out of your nano and down to your sump. The other option you have is to put your sump above your tnak and pump water up to it and let gravity work for you. I'm not familiar with the nano cubs to know how they are built so I can't help you a lot there.

As for building the sump that is very easy. I'll dig up some pics of the 10g sump I made and post them for you to look at.
 
I have some ideas about how i wanna do it and i've been looking on the net of different ways to build overflows and plum sumps and the like. I'm in my senior year of and engineering degree so hopefully i will be able to figure out something simple like this. haha can let my fish out smart me
 
Whats a TDS meter?

TDS is Total Dissolved Solids and measures 'impurties' in the freshwater. RO/DI water should be 0ppm.

...even buying their RO/DI is risky because they may not change their filters as frequently as they should. Testing the RO/DI water you get from them with a TDS meter will help you to know what quality water you are getting.

The LFS in my area is excellent in that regard. They have the dates of when they changed out posted on plastic holders containing the pre-sediment and carbon block and several inline TDS meters on the RO/DI unit (after the carbon block, after the membrane, after the 1st DI resin AND after the 3rd DI resin/final output).
 
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