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Old 12-21-2014, 11:15 AM   #11
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Adding rock isn't going to do much. As a matter of fact, it might make things worse if it's uncycled/uncured. No, you shouldn't be adding anything in the way of supplements. I was asking to rule that out. Many folks dump phytoplankton in the tank not thinking it's adding to the nutrient problem.
You could always get a clean, new brush and scrub the algae off inside the tank just before a water change.
Ok thats what we will do next. Can we mix phosphate and nitrate remover in the phosphate reactor?
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Old 12-21-2014, 02:32 PM   #12
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There is a lot of good advice in this thread. The only other thing that I would add is to make sure that you have sufficient water flow throughout the tank. Algae tends to grow the most in the dead spots where there is little water movement. you might try adjusting your powerheads or adding another powerhead to the tank (toward the bottom of the tank).


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Old 12-21-2014, 03:45 PM   #13
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There is a lot of good advice in this thread. The only other thing that I would add is to make sure that you have sufficient water flow throughout the tank. Algae tends to grow the most in the dead spots where there is little water movement. you might try adjusting your powerheads or adding another powerhead to the tank (toward the bottom of the tank).


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We have a spare but took it out because the high flow was bothering two of the corals
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Old 12-21-2014, 06:43 PM   #14
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I would also advise getting that RO working, so you are using tap water at the moment? You could also buy ro-di water from your lfs for this battle until you work out your own system...


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Old 12-21-2014, 07:21 PM   #15
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Ok thats what we will do next. Can we mix phosphate and nitrate remover in the phosphate reactor?
I never tried it. Which products are you using exactly?
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:32 PM   #16
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I would also advise getting that RO working, so you are using tap water at the moment? You could also buy ro-di water from your lfs for this battle until you work out your own system...


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It is working
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Old 12-21-2014, 08:34 PM   #17
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I never tried it. Which products are you using exactly?
Phosguard i know is the one. The other one i think is called like de*nitrate. I convinced him to put the nitrate remover in my old HOB filter and use that instead of puttng them both in there.

I will keep this thread posted once we do all this. Currently at the in laws for Christmas.
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Old 12-22-2014, 03:41 AM   #18
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I'm gonna chime in as I fought a battle with algae for over a year. Finally I'm winning.

First, algae LOVES water movement. Bacteria like Cyanobacteria hate water movement but hair algae loves it. More movement means fresh nutrients brought in.

Like you I also had 0 nitrates and phosphates, fed very little (which led to a few crab and shrimp deaths) and reduced lighting. Completely removing lighting will not get rid of algae (therefor neither will reduced lighting) but it WILL help slow the growth of new algae.
[I put half my rocks into a 25 gal curing bucket with a lid, heater and water movement, did periodic water changes to keep nutrient levels very low, and after 4-6 months with absolutely NO light the rocks were still covered in algae]

The ONLY thing I found that got rid of algae that was already there was manual removal. Now there was no way I was going to tear apart 150 lbs of rocks, so I hired some help. A ton of hermit crabs, who attacked the algae with vigor. About $200 of hermits for a 110 gal tank from a wholesaler (about 1/2 price from a LFS). Scarlet and dwarf blue leg crabs mainly plus a couple electric orange. I avoid dwarf red leg as I find they eat all my snails.

Also check your Alk and Calc levels, as low numbers there can lend to algae growth.


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Old 12-22-2014, 05:52 AM   #19
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Are you testing the filtered waters TDS? You have a tds meter correct?

Ifnot you need one. You need to monitor the tds after the membrane and after the DI filter. A rodi unit should be producing 0 tds water or something needs replacing.

For instance if you were to test the tds of the water and it showed a tds of 17. Unhook the DI filter and make some water minus the di filter. If the tds of that water is 1-5 tds then you have a bad di filter. If you get a reading higher than that then you have a bad membrane. An old membrane can ruin a DI filter pretty fast.

Quick guide - Results will vary.
sediment filter
- 6~12 months
carbon filter - 6~12 months
RO Membrane - 2 ~ 3 years

(De-Ionized) filter - approx 400gals max

You can pickup a handheld tds meter on ebay for around $25. To test I typically use a new plastic cup let the filter water fall into the cup and test it there. Or you can get a inline tds meter for a bit more.

If I typed all that out for nothing. Next I would look at how effecient your protein skimmer is. I personally wouldn't run a skimmer brand unless bulkreefsupply sells it. I have a Reef Ocotopus.
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Old 12-22-2014, 09:15 AM   #20
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Are you testing the filtered waters TDS? You have a tds meter correct?

Ifnot you need one. You need to monitor the tds after the membrane and after the DI filter. A rodi unit should be producing 0 tds water or something needs replacing.

For instance if you were to test the tds of the water and it showed a tds of 17. Unhook the DI filter and make some water minus the di filter. If the tds of that water is 1-5 tds then you have a bad di filter. If you get a reading higher than that then you have a bad membrane. An old membrane can ruin a DI filter pretty fast.

Quick guide - Results will vary.
sediment filter
- 6~12 months
carbon filter - 6~12 months
RO Membrane - 2 ~ 3 years

(De-Ionized) filter - approx 400gals max

You can pickup a handheld tds meter on ebay for around $25. To test I typically use a new plastic cup let the filter water fall into the cup and test it there. Or you can get a inline tds meter for a bit more.

If I typed all that out for nothing. Next I would look at how effecient your protein skimmer is. I personally wouldn't run a skimmer brand unless bulkreefsupply sells it. I have a Reef Ocotopus.
Thats what he wants to get but doesnt want to spend all this money on one before we know that is the issue. He too also wants the octopus but it is too big. We were looking at the coralife superskimmer one. I think he wants to buy the one for 250 gallons lol. That is something that will have to wait until afer the holidays though. We are going to try manual removal and running the phosguard and be-nitrate then go from there.

But yes getting a new skimmer was my first reaction too since he hates the one we have now. :/ after christmas...
Thank you for the info about the RODI though. We just changed all the cartridges but I am not sure about the one that is only good for 400 gallons. I guess I wwillbuy him a tester and add it to his christmas gift lol.
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