Why is My water Evaporating so fast? Change Filter?

[ace1uno_00]

I add about 5 gallons of water to my tank every week.
I think its because the top of my tank is open. No lid. and My Halide light heats up the water by 2 or 3 degrees.

What is the solution to my problem?

I dont want to add a lid that will disrupt the lighting.

Also, I have a ProClear Aquatics Wet/Dry with built in skimmer. I was thinking about changing to a TidePool 2. They seem easier to use and The are a lot less noisey.

Any thoughts or feedback would be great.

 

[tecwzrd]

Is this in the 40 gal? I add around 4-5 gal a week during the winter to my 55 gal tank so it doesn't seem that off to me.

I average around 3-4 gal during the summer.

I hope you are topping off daily with FW or at least every 3 days.

 

[mp3z24]

you will lose a lot of water in the winter... the air is too dry in your home. dry air, static electricity shocks, dry skin, etc.... they come with the season.

to slow down the tank evaporation, you could add a humidifier to the room, but you will have to fill the humdiifer with water. so, your going to be putting water into something .

~mike

 

[roka64]

I agree, that sounds reasonable. You could do a DIY auto-topoff unit.

 

[melosu58]

I dont want to add a lid that will disrupt the lighting.

Not only that but you`ll have PH problems from poor gas exchange at the surface. I dont think also that you are far from normal. I have a 125 and I`m putting in 2 gallons a day.

 

[ace1uno_00]

Ok good. This is in my 58 Gal. I thought i was going nuts. So i should add a little fresh water everyday from my understanding?

And any thoughts on the wet/dry filter? Have any of you used the Tidepool Units?

 

[roka64]

You may want to post about the Tidepool in the general hardware/equipment section.

 

[melosu58]

All your top off water needs to be fresh water. Your PWC water needs to be SW.

 

[FPandMM]

I just installed Metal Halides about 3 weeks ago on a 55. I have had to add water alot more now that they are on. I also removed my glass lids as well. It is normal to lose that much do to evaporation. I do have a question though. I always topped off with FW because my salinity rose after evap. But since the metal halides have been on, the tank salinity hasn't been raising once 2-3 gal of evap. I have had to top off with sw. I'm I going crazy or is something not right?

 

[roka64]

Yes, salinity will rise, remember water evaporates and salt does not. MH are very hot and will cause more evaporation....heat=evaporation.

But since the metal halides have been on, the tank salinity hasn't been raising once 2-3 gal of evap. I have had to top off with sw. I'm I going crazy or is something not right?

Are you saying the salinity hasn't risen since you added the MHs? With the added heat, the water will evaporate faster and the salinity will rise faster.
Are you using a hydrometer or refractometer? The hydros are somewhat inaccurate, especially with the swinging arms.

 

[FPandMM]

I'm going to buy a new one this weekend. I don't get it. The tank can be at .23 then after 2-3 gal of evap the sg is .22 I think maybe the Hydrometer is going bad.

 

[JM]

If i remember correctly the Tidepool uses a large biowheel like structure. Correct me if i'm wrong. I have heard that they cause problems with nitrates and such.

 

[MarineFlake]

I add about 5 gallons of water to my tank every week.
I think its because the top of my tank is open. No lid. and My Halide light heats up the water by 2 or 3 degrees.

What is the solution to my problem?

I dont want to add a lid that will disrupt the lighting.

Also, I have a ProClear Aquatics Wet/Dry with built in skimmer. I was thinking about changing to a TidePool 2. They seem easier to use and The are a lot less noisey.

Any thoughts or feedback would be great.

Welcome to MH lighting. The solution is to use a light source that produces much less heat and/or put a lid on the tank. For heat dissipation you can try a small fan blowing ever so gently across the top of the tank to help remove heat. As for evap, get a top off unit or as stated put a lid on. I do not recommend using a lid but thats about the only way to slow evap.
o, and I would stay away any type of 'bio wheel' unless you are completely committed to cleaning/replacing the 'bio filter' every couple of weeks. They have a nasty habit of being a source of nitrates.
Peace!

 

[Charlie]

I've got a glass top on my 46gal and have never noticed any ill effect. Naturally there is about 3" @ the rear of the top which is not covered by the glass top. My PH is normal and stable.

I'm using a Coralife VHO fixture and they recommended the glass top. They told me that the glass helps to keep salt out of the fixture which would otherwise shorten the usable life of the light.

 

[Hara]

The solution is to use a light source that produces much less heat

In the dry air of winter, just about any tank will use up water, no matter what the lights.

I use every major combination of lighting on assorted tanks except for PC and all the tanks need twice as much water during the winter months.

 

[JM]

I'm currently losing about 2 gallons every day or two out of my 120g. Theres really no way to stop it this time of year.

 

[ace1uno_00]

Okay so, water evaporates, salt does not. My tank evaps about 5 gallons a week.

Would it be good to add one gallon of FW a day? or should i add it all at once? and I just noticed that my SG is a little high.

how can i bring it down withouth giving my tank a shock?
I am using one of those swing arm Hydros.

 

[roka64]

You can add it as needed. When you see the water level lower, just add some FW.

how can i bring it down withouth giving my tank a shock?

You can lower it by doing a PWC with a lower slainity. Keep in mind fish can tolerate the lowering of salinity way better than an increase.

I am using one of those swing arm Hydros.

I would suggest you invest in a Refractometer http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=9957&N=2004+113761 you will be shocked at the difference between the two measurements.

 

[melosu58]

I would add every day and not wait till the end of the week. I have a measured line on my refuge with a marker that lets me know where i need to be at and I add water back to the line every day. I agree with the refractometer.

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

I've got a glass top on my 46gal and have never noticed any ill effect. Naturally there is about 3" @ the rear of the top which is not covered by the glass top. My PH is normal and stable.

Same here. I think problems arise when people totally close off the top. Or maybe we're just lucky!

In addition to the 3" in back, I've got the two sections of glass supported by plastic slider rails on both sides of the tank. The front glass plate rests on the tank frame, but the back glass plate is elevated above it and rests on the slider rail. That makes for a gap along the length of the tank between the front and back glass plate. That probably helps too. (Reason I'm doing this is so that I can just slide the front panel back to feed instead of hinging it up, AND it gets rid of that stupid black colored living hinge that makes a big shadow in tank.)