Filtration and Water Change Questions

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dajonx

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Aug 30, 2023
Messages
23
Good morning!

I was wondering what you guys think.

1) Is it always better to have a higher filtration gallons per hour number than what is recommended? For example, is it always better to get a filter that's rated for 70 gallons than 50 gallons? (I have a 38 gallon)

2) How do you guys do your water changes? When I do it, it's completely messy and I have the gravel cleaner siphon tool. This is what I do: Use a large cup to remove about 50% of the water, use the gravel cleaner (I'm not even sure if I'm using it well), add the water using a cup that I removed earlier back into the tank, and add the water that's been sitting out (used Seachem Prime for a few days to prep it).

3) I'm not getting a fast suction when I use the gravel cleaner. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.

4) Is there a way to add water back to the tank more efficiently than a cup?

5) I have live plants in the tank. Is there anything special I need to do for them? I have only covered their roots with gravel.

6) Is it better to have less decorations than more decorations?

7) I have five neon tetras. They only stay towards the bottom and hover around the corner of the tank. Is that normal?

8) How do you guys clean the decorations/water heater/powerflow/etc?

Sorry for all of the questions! I really appreciate all of the help I've been getting here! You guys are AWESOME!
 
1) Is it always better to have a higher filtration gallons per hour number than what is recommended? For example, is it always better to get a filter that's rated for 70 gallons than 50 gallons? (I have a 38 gallon)

There are many metrics to determine a good filter size.

Gallons per hour. You are ordinarily looking for the filter to turn over the water something like 3 to 5 times per hours. So your 38g tank should have a filter capable of turning over about 160 gallons per hour. But, the rated gallons per hour is determined in ideal circumstances. So with no filter media, minimal head differential etc. In the real world a filter will only turn over 70 to 50% of its rated value. So your 38 gallon tank probably needs a filter rated to turn over about 250 gallons per hour.

There is also how much filter media it can hold. More capacity for filter media means it can hold more media and deal with more waste, and therefore a bigger aquarium. I like to have a filter that can hold about 1kg of filter media for every 100 litres of water.

The upshot is, that most filters are good for about half their rating. So a filter rated for 40 gallons in practice is a good filter for a 20 gallon tank. Your 38g tank would be best filtered by a filter rated for about 70 gallons. A smaller filter might still be ok if you arent heavily stocked with fish that need a high turnover of water. Every circumstance is different, but halving the filter rating is a good rule of thumb.
 
2) How do you guys do your water changes? When I do it, it's completely messy and I have the gravel cleaner siphon tool. This is what I do: Use a large cup to remove about 50% of the water, use the gravel cleaner (I'm not even sure if I'm using it well), add the water using a cup that I removed earlier back into the tank, and add the water that's been sitting out (used Seachem Prime for a few days to prep it).

Syphon out your water into buckets, and tip the buckets down the drain. Gravel clean using the syphon at the same if you are doing a gravel clean.

Add your water conditioner before you refill enough to treat the whole tank.

Refill the tank. You can use a "foodsafe" hose if your tap has a suitable hose adaptor and a mixer tap. If not fill the buckets and tip it in your aquarium.

No need to let the water sit if you are using a water conditioner. Just use water straight from the tap at a similar temperature to whats in your aquarium. Water conditioner works immediately on contact with the water.
 
3) I'm not getting a fast suction when I use the gravel cleaner. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.

The rate your syphon works will depend on head differential. The bigger the gap between the surface of the water in your aquarium and whatever you are pouring the water into, the quicker it will suck.

If the bucket is on the floor it will suck faster than if the bucket is on a table. If the bucket is level with the water in the aquarium it wont suck at all. This can make it impossible to syphon water out of an aquarium for instance if the aquarium is on the floor.
 
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6) Is it better to have less decorations than more decorations?

Depends on the circumstances. Some bigger fish need room to swim around in, so you might need open areas of water. Smaller fish might be more nervous, so giving them plenty of hiding spaces is a good idea. You might have territorial fish, so having different spaces where different individuals can establish territory is beneficial.

Everyone has their own aesthetics. One person might prefer to have an extensively aquascaped tank with fish. Someone else might prefer to say "look at my fish" and less aquascaping.
 
7) I have five neon tetras. They only stay towards the bottom and hover around the corner of the tank. Is that normal?

What size tank? What other fish?

That part of the tank might just be where things suit those fish and where they have established their territory. Maybe there is a nice shady spot where they can settle away from other fish. Or the flow rate in that part of the tank is to their liking. Post a photo so we can see better whats going on.
 
8) How do you guys clean the decorations/water heater/powerflow/etc?

If they need cleaning i take them out of the tank and give them an appropriate wipe/ scrub. Dont think ive ever cleaned a heater. Filter gets wiped down including impellers, and sponges and media rinsed every month in dechlorinated water.
 
Wow, thank you so much!!

I'll take a pic of the tank. Just to warn you, it's not the most aesthically pleasing tank. Haha!

The plants I have for mostly ferns and moss.

I just ordered a filter rated for 300 gallons per hour (for a 70 gallon tank).
 
Hello, if you have large tanks may I suggest getting a python. They attach to a sink faucet & can create a suction if gravity isn't working for you. I use this in tandem with seachem safe or seachem prime water conditioner. You can use to temp match & fill tank too.
It a game changer no buckets. If cost is an issue there are cheaper brands that work just the same. Hopefully this helps!!!!! Here's a link on Amazon .
https://www.amazon.com/enomol-Aquar...cphy=1013462&hvtargid=pla-1445714699727&psc=1Screenshot_20230911-133007.jpgScreenshot_20230911-132738.jpg
 
Oh wow!! That's awesome! Thank you for the recommendation!
 
I just realized it wouldn't work for my faucet since it's one of those detachable multi-function faucet heads. :banghead:

And here are a couple of pictures of my tank and the neon tetras:
 

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You will find the fish will be happier and feel safer if you put a background on the tank. A black background will make everything in the tank pop out more, hide and all the equipment down the back of the tank. Win all round.
 
I just realized it wouldn't work for my faucet since it's one of those detachable multi-function faucet heads. :banghead:

And here are a couple of pictures of my tank and the neon tetras:

I see a nice selection of fish but I don't see neon tetras. :confused: If you are talking about the Red one and Blue One, those are Glo-Tetras, not Neons. The reason this is important to differentiate is because Neon Tetras ( Paracheirodon innesi ) are very different fish ( size wise, attitude, longevity, etc) from the Glo- Tetras ( Gymnocorymbus ternetzi ). If you were to ask someone for good tankmates for the Neons, you would get a different answer than for the Glo- Tetras.
Just so you know. (y)
As Aiken said, the fish would really "POP" color wise with a black or dark blue background. (y)(y)(y)


EDIT: I saw the second pic first so I didn't see the Neons in Pic #1 before I posted my comment. :facepalm: :D Still a nice selection of fish. (y)
 
Thank you! I will do that tonight.

So I am planning on putting in a driftwood piece in the middle and remove some of the other decor (minus the live plants) for better water flow. I don't know if you noticed, but I have three powerheads in there. I was thinking of removing that circular one on the left so I'm left with two. Is it better to put the top powerhead on the opposite side... Hmm... Maybe it would be better with a diagram?

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Should I move my powerheads to the opposite sides where the blue stars are?

Also, is feeding the fish every other day ok? (That's what a Petsmart employee told me)
 

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If your tank isnt cycled then feeding every 2 days is a good idea. Once you are cycled feeding daily, as much as is eaten in 2 to 3 minutes is the norm. Missing a day or 2 here and there wont hurt anything, but feed once a day if you can.

IMO that tank isnt big enough to need any powerheads. A decent filter should circulate the water sufficiently.
 
Thank you!

How do I know if my tank is cycled? :confused:

Oh! I was trying to stir up yucky stuff on the gravel with the powerheads :confused:
 
If you test your water parameters and consistently see zero ammonia and nitrite you are cycled sufficiently for the fish you currently have. Typically it takes a couple of months before a tank is cycled.

Do you know your water parameters?

What do you understand about the nitrogen cycle?

How long has the tank been established?

Powerheads will do what you are expecting, but going back to your original query about filtration a properly sized filter, especially in a smaller sized tank, along with your regular tank maintenance will keep your aquarium clear. Your plants will need some of that detritus getting into the substrate for them to feed off also. There is such a thing as being too clean.
 
Water parameters? No... I do occasionally use the water test strips and the color said it was in a good range.

I don't know anything about nitrogen cycle...

The tank has been up for about 2-3 months.

When I gravel clean, I don't do it around the plants. So the higher filtration can sufficiently filter the "dead zones" as well (like the opposite side of the filter placement)?
 
Water parameters? No... I do occasionally use the water test strips and the color said it was in a good range.

I don't know anything about nitrogen cycle...

The tank has been up for about 2-3 months.

When I gravel clean, I don't do it around the plants. So the higher filtration can sufficiently filter the "dead zones" as well (like the opposite side of the filter placement)?

I'm with Aiken as to the not needing all the power heads if your filtration rate is sufficient. At most, if your filter output isn't moving the water around all over the tank, one powerhead should work if placed properly. I usually place them low in the tank facing the opposite side of the aquarium so that it keeps the bottom water moving and when it hits the other side, it forces the water up creating a circular pattern. If you place the powerhead on the same side as the filter, the outflow of the filter will be circulated throughout the tank. (y)
 
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