Correct way to read API liquid tests

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meloyelo

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Dec 2, 2011
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South Carolina - USA
I've googled, searched, etc. and get differing answers to the correct way to do this. What is the general train of thought here?

Hold test tube directly against the white card background.

Hold test tube slightly away from the white background.

I've been holding mine directly against the white card and under bright flourescent lighting in my kitchen. For comparison sake I held the tube away from the card slightly to let the light shine through the water and I get a totally different reading. Example is on Nitrate test, against the card it shows around 80. Slightly away from the card it shows between 20 and 30. So.......

Thanks!
 
Subscribing because I'd like to see how others do it too. I hold it right against the card which does make the liquid a LOT darker.....hmm....
 
I don't hold it against the white background at all. I put the tubes on the canopy an read the colors and call it a day. 6 of one half a dozen the other.
 
If you read the booklet that came with the test it says to hold it up against the white background. I was confused at first too, since holding it in different ways gives different results, but I've since been holding it up against the card like the instructions say. Better to be safe than sorry too (better to assume the color is darker than lighter especially if it's something potentially dangerous like ammonia).
 
Everyone does it different. I built a little work station under my canopy to hold 6 tubes. I just place them there. Haven't had a problem. Holding It against the white card under different light too close too far drives my OCD into overdrive!!!! If I see a color issue I'll deal with it. My tank pretty much takes care of itself.
 
The instruction also says to look from the top to the bootom on a white background. When I do my nitrate test, for example, it gives me 50-60, when I am looking at the tube from aside also against a white background it looks like 5-10. This is also kiiling me. Is there another way to check it?
 
Testing Tank Chemistry

Hello mel...

When I tested, I always held the test tube close to the colors and against the white card. Nitrates shouldn't be allowed to exceed 75 ppm, but even that level for a short time won't hurt your fish. As you know, it's the slight traces of ammonia and nitrites that can be lethal. Large weekly water changes of at least half the tank volume will keep the tank water in the "safe zone".

Actually, if you're willing to remove and replace a minimum of half the tank water weekly, there's no need to test the water chemistry. By flushing a lot of pure, treated tap water through the tank, there's no time for pollutants to build up in the water before the next water change and you're guaranteed the water will always be stable for your fish and plants too. I haven't tested the water in my tanks for quite some time. But, I do my large, weekly water changes religiously.

Just a thought.

B
 
Actually I think I will just look at the color formed in the tube, not from the top to the bottom as an instruction says. The reason why, two days in the row i was doing water changes. First day I did 30%, second - 50%. And if i will look at the results the instruction suggests it would be the same result as without water change. When I look at the tube against white background from aside, you can clearly see the dicrease... Correct me if you think I'm wrong.
 
I think whatever method you use, pick one and stick with it. That way you will know that any changes you see are really happening and not because the light is different. And test your tap water, water from a tank you know is cycled if possible, and compare them all. Then you'll have a base line for what it all looks like in the lighting you've chosen.
 
Hello mel...

When I tested, I always held the test tube close to the colors and against the white card. Nitrates shouldn't be allowed to exceed 75 ppm, but even that level for a short time won't hurt your fish. As you know, it's the slight traces of ammonia and nitrites that can be lethal. Large weekly water changes of at least half the tank volume will keep the tank water in the "safe zone".

Actually, if you're willing to remove and replace a minimum of half the tank water weekly, there's no need to test the water chemistry. By flushing a lot of pure, treated tap water through the tank, there's no time for pollutants to build up in the water before the next water change and you're guaranteed the water will always be stable for your fish and plants too. I haven't tested the water in my tanks for quite some time. But, I do my large, weekly water changes religiously.

Just a thought.

B

That's actually how I've been doing it, tube against the card. Recently I've been struggling with high Nitrates. Testing with the tube against the card shows somewhere between 40 and 80. Lord really only knows what it really is because the colors are so close to the same. That's what got me wondering if I was doing it correctly. I tried it with the tube slightly away from the white on the card and got a reading of 20 to 30. When I test my tap water (tube against white) it shows me having 40ppm. If that is indeed correct, I'm just dumping Nitrates right back in my tank. I normally do a 50% change at least twice weekly because of that. I've recently been having a problem with green algae growing on the glass. I think that is a sign of high nitrates also. I think I'm going to go with mixing 50/50 RO and my tap to see what I can come up with.

Thanks for all the great input.

Meloyelo
 
Algae can also appear if you leave lights on for too long or you have a lot of plants. But my pleco and snails are great helpers to deal with this issue :)
 
If you over think this your just gonna drive yourself CRAZY!!

Just put the water in the tube, add whatever test liquid your using, cap the tube, shake and let sit for a couple of minutes and read. Don't stress so much as to wear the tune should held, how far from the white background or if you should use the background, stand on your head and count to 30 then read the test.

IMO were way over thinking a very simple testing method.

It's not that hard really and there's no right or wrong way. Like I said one does it one way others do it there way and I do it my way. Untold you how I do it and its fine. You'll know when there's a problem....

Just my 2 cents.
 
I tried putting a couple of mystery snails in to help with the algae. They were really active the day i put them in. Two days later they were dead. Totally hanging limp out of their shell dead too. From what I read, they are nitrate sensitive too.
 
I usually set the tube on top of the tank, then stand the card up right behind it and compare.
 
meloyelo said:
LOL....yep, that's where I'm heading

Haha! Don't let it get to you... You'll know if there is a problem. If you pH comes out pink there's an issue if your ammonia is black you might wanna do a water changes and if your nitrites have purple polka dots your in trouble.
 
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