Cycling and almost there - i think

[michaelg210]

so now i just keep doing water changes until the tank balances out?

ammonia - .02
NitrItes- .25
NitrAteS - .20

then add a few fish?

 

[krap101]

Water changes are unnecessary while cycling, unless your nitrates get over 40, ammonia over 5, and I think nitrites over 5. Maybe another week and you'll be done

Anyways, how did you get .02ppm ammonia? Did you mean .2?

 

[michaelg210]

ammonia count, i might have mis read, would have to double check, i was really tired

Water changes are unnecessary while cycling, unless your nitrates get over 40, ammonia over 5, and I think nitrites over 5. Maybe another week and you'll be done

Anyways, how did you get .02ppm ammonia? Did you mean .2?

just where the disk showed, but I might have mis-read it, will double check tonight...

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Seachem Ammonia Alert detects less than 0.05 mg/L (ppm) free ammonia and alerts you to the #1 killer before any sign of stress. It lasts over a year and replacement sensors are available. Marine or freshwater use.[/FONT]

ps... good to know not much longer.

 

[krap101]

Just to make sure, this is fishless right? You didn't mean add *more* fish did you?

Anyways, .05mg/L=.05ppm, which is kind of ridiculous.. as five times that is the "accepted" range. I also doubt the wheel's ability for accuracy. I'd go ahead and get a liquid test kit (walmart has a 18$ kit shipped, for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, ph and high ph). Most people would round .05ppm down to 0, as I'm not even sure if you'd be able to distinguish between yellow and yellow and like 1% green

 

[michaelg210]

question

Water changes are unnecessary while cycling, unless your nitrates get over 40, ammonia over 5, and I think nitrites over 5. Maybe another week and you'll be done

Anyways, how did you get .02ppm ammonia? Did you mean .2?

I have not checked the ammonia since the nitrites kicked in, figured they would keep the NH3/4 in check.

I have prime's ammo alert disk, and it shows very little ammonia, so figured this was ok.

can i ask you what type of bottom feeder might be good with a few pladies to clean up all the mess on the bottom? They are difficult eaters, and I am feeding them a little flakes and a little of the tropical granules, however, much of it ends up on the bottom.

would adding some type of "clean-up" fish be beneficial at this point?

 

[krap101]

What sized tank do you have? Generally I would suggest cories or a small loach (khulis or angelicus loaches (not 100% on the loach so don't throw rocks at me.. lol)) Bottom feeders can actually reduce the amount of "waste" in a tank, by processing the food on the bottom but this is when they only eat the food that would otherwise go uneaten. Usually we end up feeding more to make sure our bottom feeders get enough food, and then there is a net increase in waste/ammonia

 

[michaelg210]

seachem disk

Just to make sure, this is fishless right? You didn't mean add *more* fish did you?

Anyways, .05mg/L=.05ppm, which is kind of ridiculous.. as five times that is the "accepted" range. I also doubt the wheel's ability for accuracy. I'd go ahead and get a liquid test kit (walmart has a 18$ kit shipped, for ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, ph and high ph). Most people would round .05ppm down to 0, as I'm not even sure if you'd be able to distinguish between yellow and yellow and like 1% green

LOL, you are too funny, yeah, guess they had to use those colors to make it work. They are closer on the color prism than kissin cousins.

Anyway, no, long story, it is with fish..., i was doing like 3x heavy water changes during the ammonia phase to keep the levels down.

I do have the API liquid test kit, but as stated, have not used it for ammonia, as levels are well within safe levels. Have only been checking for NO2 / NO3.

 

[michaelg210]

tank size

What sized tank do you have? Generally I would suggest cories or a small loach (khulis or angelicus loaches (not 100% on the loach so don't throw rocks at me.. lol)) Bottom feeders can actually reduce the amount of "waste" in a tank, by processing the food on the bottom but this is when they only eat the food that would otherwise go uneaten. Usually we end up feeding more to make sure our bottom feeders get enough food, and then there is a net increase in waste/ammonia

10 gallon, yes was referring to the un-eaten food, otherwise i will just gravel vac, but sure too much sits.

 

[krap101]

I thought you were doing fishless cycling, so disregard the second post. You should be trying to keep ammonia/nitrites under .5ppm and nitrates under 40, and it looks like that's what you're doing, so everything is good

 

[michaelg210]

Thanks, today's readings:

I thought you were doing fishless cycling, so disregard the second post. You should be trying to keep ammonia/nitrites under .5ppm and nitrates under 40, and it looks like that's what you're doing, so everything is good

Ammonia, ~.20
NitrItes, ~.25
NitrAtes ~ .20

wierd, all about the same, does that mean too much food / over feeding in the tank or do i just roll with it till stabilized and then do H2O changes for Nitrates only, as the others should remain in check.........??

 

[krap101]

You can still have ammonia and nitrite spikes until your cycle is finished, so I'd keep an eye on everything still. You're within the acceptable range (for nitrates it's probably 20 not .20). If your nitrites don't go down, I'd probably anticipate a wc in your future.

 

[taylorodw]

Yep michael, when your tank is fully cycled you will have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and nitrates will slowly build. The PWC removes nitrate build up, and you will have a healthy eco system

The levels staying pretty much the same is normal - cycling takes time. Only feed until the fish stop swarming If they aren't chasing the food, they've had enough! Also, feed gradually (don't dump in the whole day's ration - put in a little, wait for it to get eaten, then put in a little more).

Also, thoroughly vacuuming your gravel will help reduce the amount of uneaten food and waste.

Keep up the good work

 

[maxima423]

we are in the same boat michael ^_^ what are you stocking options? for your tank maybe try shrimp as cleaners? for my 20g high, i am going to try 1 clown pleco and maybe 1 BN pleco, maybe =]

 

[maxima423]

telescope goldfish >___> i think having those big eyes reminds me of ET and i think thats weird haha

 

[michaelg210]

tank readings

You can still have ammonia and nitrite spikes until your cycle is finished, so I'd keep an eye on everything still. You're within the acceptable range (for nitrates it's probably 20 not .20). If your nitrites don't go down, I'd probably anticipate a wc in your future.

yeah, i am not sure if that readout shows all straight numbers or decimal points, but you are correct.

Yep michael, when your tank is fully cycled you will have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and nitrates will slowly build. The PWC removes nitrate build up, and you will have a healthy eco system

The levels staying pretty much the same is normal - cycling takes time. Only feed until the fish stop swarming If they aren't chasing the food, they've had enough! Also, feed gradually (don't dump in the whole day's ration - put in a little, wait for it to get eaten, then put in a little more).

Also, thoroughly vacuuming your gravel will help reduce the amount of uneaten food and waste.

i have cut way back on the feeding amounts, just a little bit, and only once per day.... they are such picky eaters was not sure they were getting enough. have also been gravel vaccuming with each water change but it seems to possibly disturb the crypts, which i have read, some of the stems / leafs dissintegrate, but have also read that is normal upon transplant.

I only have 2 platy fish in there.

we are in the same boat michael ^_^ what are you stocking options? for your tank maybe try shrimp as cleaners? for my 20g high, i am going to try 1 clown pleco and maybe 1 BN pleco, maybe =]

that's what i am looking for something that cleans the bottom including uneaten food, or will i have enough to sustain that fish, (or will i have even MORE food buildup cause the tank doesn't sustain him and i have to add MORE food, yet?)

Tank is only 10 gallons.

 

[michaelg210]

Wow, tank is cycled, i think

i thought you were doing fishless cycling, so disregard the second post. You should be trying to keep ammonia/nitrites under .5ppm and nitrates under 40, and it looks like that's what you're doing, so everything is good

last phase went fast..... Last night's readings,

ammonia 0
nitrite 0
nitrate 20

this morning's readings were the same....

Guess i am done.....

Next question, i have like 6 small plants in there, anubia, crypts, and java ferns.... Will one betta produce enough waste to sustain the plants / cycle or do i need to add some kind of plant feeder.........

Sorry about the caps, at work, usually use all caps to minimize punctuation, i type fast, but not so well when i have to shift, etc.

 

[maxima423]

congratz on fishing your cycle

 

[michaelg210]

thanks, where do i need to keep nitrates now

congratz on fishing your cycle

i.e. keep below 40 ppm? at what point do i now do water changes?

 

[krap101]

You should be doing water changes about once a week, unless one of your levels goes out of wack. Nitrates you should keep under 40ppm (for the fish), and everything else should be good to go.

 

[maxima423]

yea keep nitrates under 40, just do parameter checks every 2-3 days =]