help with ammonia - confused

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Barakis

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Apr 20, 2012
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152
Location
Cambridge, uk
Hi Guys, sorry about the massive text, but i waffle, you will easily find relevant info though :)

So had a reading of 0.25ppm ammonia for months, but nitrite 0 and nitrate 10-30.

my lfs tested and just said i had an error on my reading, so i just egnored any reading as long as it wasn't over 0.25ppm.

I went to a different LFS last week (moved house) to test my water, so i could try and resolve high nitrate. they said all my levels are fine, and turns out i have an error on both ammonia and nitrate.

the staff at API (awesome customer service by the way) sent me a new batch of the ammonia and nitrate tests, and also gave advice to possible variables.

I tested both today, with both sets (old and new). my nitrate reads old:40ppm new:10/20ppm. a clear error

The issue i have, is my new ammonia test (tested in a brand new glass tube, washed in only tank water) is exactly the same as the old one, which i think is 0.25ppm but the color doesn't quite match so maybe a bit less.

could i really have ammonia showing for such a long period of time with no effect to any other numbers, or any fish? or why does my LFS tell me my water is perfect, if i'm getting readings myself?
 
First, make sure you're holding the tube on the white space of the card and look at it under good light. Bad lighting can really screw up your reading.

Second, there are ways to calibrate your test kits. It's not very complicated, but you need exact measurements. Dig around online and you'll find them.
 
Some tap water has ammonia in it. You can try testing your tap water. But, .25 ammo is fine. It's a safe level, so if I was you, I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Some tap water has ammonia in it. You can try testing your tap water. But, .25 ammo is fine. It's a safe level, so if I was you, I wouldn't worry about it.


I thought .25 still caused problems in the fish, although I'm pretty sure the true amount is less, the colour is lighter than the one on the card so should be ok.


First, make sure you're holding the tube on the white space of the card and look at it under good light. Bad lighting can really screw up your reading.

Second, there are ways to calibrate your test kits. It's not very complicated, but you need exact measurements. Dig around online and you'll find them.

I always read against the light with the white backing, definitely got that bit rite. I'll have to have a dig for the calibration info, if you know where you saw it could post link? :)
 
Ammonia toxicity is dependent on Ph and temperature. People often quote a certain level (.25 for example) as if it's a hard and fast rule but it simply isn't. As mentioned, even in a worst case scenario that level isn't toxic anyhow.
 
Yep, like jetajockey said, .25 is not toxic. It's just the number most aquarists choose to use as a guideline, but it's perfectly safe.
 
Ammonia toxicity is dependent on Ph and temperature. People often quote a certain level (.25 for example) as if it's a hard and fast rule but it simply isn't. As mentioned, even in a worst case scenario that level isn't toxic anyhow.

My ph is 8.2 and temp set at 25/26c.

thanks for that, definately cleared it up :)
 
Some tap water has ammonia in it. You can try testing your tap water. But, .25 ammo is fine. It's a safe level, so if I was you, I wouldn't worry about it.

ok so final update, my water still giving an ammonia reading, as is my LFS water (using my kit, testing the water my new fish came in). and my tap water i think had a reading (although my GF said it was yellow).

could i just be seeing a reading when infact it is just yellow?

anyway, i'm happy to control it at 0.25 if you guys say this level is ok :)

thanks again
 
Barakis said:
ok so final update, my water still giving an ammonia reading, as is my LFS water (using my kit, testing the water my new fish came in). and my tap water i think had a reading (although my GF said it was yellow).

could i just be seeing a reading when infact it is just yellow?

anyway, i'm happy to control it at 0.25 if you guys say this level is ok :)

thanks again

To find out what 0 ammo really looks like, test some distilled water.
 
Ammonia toxicity is dependent on Ph and temperature. People often quote a certain level (.25 for example) as if it's a hard and fast rule but it simply isn't. As mentioned, even in a worst case scenario that level isn't toxic anyhow.

my pH is 8.3-8.5 and the tap water temp, this time of year is 84F, how does pH and temp affect ammonia readings?
 
Would bottled drinking water be ok to do this?

Yes bottled water should be fine. I had the same problem when I first started. I thought the ammonia reading was .25 when it was really 0 the whole time. :facepalm: Took me a while to get the hang of reading it; the two colors are very similar and in certain lighting 0 can look like a shade of green. Now if I'm in doubt I test against tap water (which I know has 0) but you should use spring or distilled and compare the two tubes; if they match, the tank is really 0.
 
bobc4d said:
my pH is 8.3-8.5 and the tap water temp, this time of year is 84F, how does pH and temp affect ammonia readings?

It doesnt affect the actual readings, but temp and ph change how toxic the reading is to your fish. E.g. 0.25 amonia reading at 8ph/86f is 0.018 free amonia (toxic part) the rest is made up of ammonium which is not toxic. The none toxic limit for free ammonia is 0.025

This was taken straight from the article bellow, give it a read, very well written and thought me a lot.


librarygirl said:
Yes bottled water should be fine. I had the same problem when I first started. I thought the ammonia reading was .25 when it was really 0 the whole time. :facepalm: Took me a while to get the hang of reading it; the two colors are very similar and in certain lighting 0 can look like a shade of green. Now if I'm in doubt I test against tap water (which I know has 0) but you should use spring or distilled and compare the two tubes; if they match, the tank is really 0.

I have had a 0.25 reading since February despite water changes, I've got a feeling I have the same issue :) thanks lol, I'll get a bottle of water to test today.


librarygirl said:
JetaJockey wrote a really good article on this; here it is if you haven't seen it: http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f12/your-guide-to-ammonia-toxicity-159994.html

Hm, I just re-read your question: if you mean whether PH or/and temp can somehow cause or affect current ammonia readings then I don't think so.

Thanks a lot for that article, really helped clear that one up. Appreciate it.
 
librarygirl said:
Yes bottled water should be fine. I had the same problem when I first started. I thought the ammonia reading was .25 when it was really 0 the whole time. :facepalm: Took me a while to get the hang of reading it; the two colors are very similar and in certain lighting 0 can look like a shade of green. Now if I'm in doubt I test against tap water (which I know has 0) but you should use spring or distilled and compare the two tubes; if they match, the tank is really 0.

Update:

Today I tested 3 samples. Tap water, tank water, and bottled low mineral drinking water. All gave an identical color, which IMO is still a bit green... Guess it is just my eyes that are the issue lol.

Thanks all for the help, definitely sorted now.
 
I took a water sample to work this morning to test the pH, it was 8.62
I'm guessing this isn't good. Should I use a pH adjuster? I've been having ammonia issues for the last two weeks, reading 0.5 on the two bottle drop test, Nitrite is 0.15, Nitrate is 0
 
I took a water sample to work this morning to test the pH, it was 8.62
I'm guessing this isn't good. Should I use a pH adjuster? I've been having ammonia issues for the last two weeks, reading 0.5 on the two bottle drop test, Nitrite is 0.15, Nitrate is 0

Depends what you are keeping, but generally 8.6 is quite high. fish actually adjust to most PH as long as they are introduced slowly, not sure if that is too high though.

as far as the other results, readings like that suggest your tank isn't cycled. a cycled tank will never have 0 nitrate.
 
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