NH4 won't go away

[TracyRee]

Long story to get to the NH4. Tank up for 2 years and all well. Bought a fish that gave tank columnaris, learned lesson to quarantine. Treated tank. After meds I did a 100% water changed and switched to RO (with replenish and neutral regulator)

ammonia on API test has been a steady .5ppm ever since about a month)
nitrite 0
nitrates 15ppm
kh 3 drops
gh 4 drops
ph 7.2

so i got a seachem multitest for ammonia and found out the FREE ammonia is zero, the nh4 is .5 and what the API is showing. using prime

Why isn't it going down? I've added a lot of beneficial bacterial. water chnages don't bring it down. tank isn't over stocked....help!!!!!

 

[BBradbury]

Hello Tracy...

This type of bacteria thrives in poor water conditions. The chances of any bacteria infecting a healthy fish in pure water conditions is extremely remote. Columnaris is primarily a disease of livebearing fish, and these species will do well in water with a bit of standard aquarium salt added to the water change water. A healthy teaspoon for every 5 gallons of replacement water is enough to stimulate the fishes' immune system and to retard the growth of pathogens and parasites. This small amount won't bother any plants you have. Add some minced garlic to your fishes' diet and work up to the point you're changing out most of the tank water weekly. You'll notice a definite change in the health of your fish, because you'll remove waste material before it breaks down and produces ammonia.

B

 

[TracyRee]

The columnaris is not an issue any more. Treated the fish that I could save and lost the ones I couldn't. Columnaris is actually a bacteria that thrives in pristine water, unlike a lot of other infectious agents.

The issue is the NH4, the bound ammonia. It won't go down.

 

[Potluck]

The columnaris is not an issue any more. Treated the fish that I could save and lost the ones I couldn't. Columnaris is actually a bacteria that thrives in pristine water, unlike a lot of other infectious agents.

The issue is the NH4, the bound ammonia. It won't go down.

You said you did a 100% water change, was that at once or over a few days time? You're correct about columnaris as my water is prestine and I got it about 5 years ago, sorry to hear about your losses it's a nasty disease, you could of disrupted the cycle with the meds, im assuming were furan 2 and kanaplex which affect good bacteria as well as bad , or the huge water change which could take up to a month or so to re-establish, did you do anything else to the tank like change the filter media /cartridges?

Also what you're reading is ammonium which is the conversion of ammonia which is what prime does and will still read on a test

prime converts ammonia to ammonium(nh4) which is less toxic if toxic at all to fish

I wouldn't add anymore live bacteria I had major issues when I first started this hobby when I was adding live bacteria and prime together (so I was told).

What I would do is check source water (can't hurt) even though I read you switched to re mineralized RO, check tank thoroughly for any fish that may be dead and hidden under something, cut feeding back, let the tank rest just monitor the ammonia and everything else, you can overclean a tank even though I will probably be told that it's false... its not. Do a 30-50% change immidiately if you see ammonia go up 0.5 isn't really bad (not good but not bad) especially since it's NH4 (AMMONIUM) which is non toxic ionised form of ammonia.

What size tank?
What Size filter
How many fish left and what are they?

The 1 inch per gallon rule is way outdated is why I ask.

Positive note : they say once a fish beats columnaris its immune after

Dont touch the filters or media, if you feel adding live bacteria is helping you can still add it but I personally wouldn't, do a small water change weekly if ammonia doesn't go up(if it does do one immidiately) I wouldn't go over 50%.

 

[TracyRee]

Thanks Rick!

15 gallon aio Aqua Japan tank. Tons and tons of space for biological filtration. Huge black sponge, huge bag of ceramic media. Pump that says it does about 100gph and temp at 78-80

Lost all but 3 dwarf neon rainbows to columnaris but received 2 small german blue rams that I ordered before knowing about the ammonium. That's why I'm being uptight about it, the rams.

Have grown to dislike the rainbows. Greedy things. They are a bit too active and a bit too big.

The 100% water change was at once, after treating for columnaris. I knew it was a risk, but didn't expect it too take this long as I didn't expect I'd lose all beneficials, just some

 

[Potluck]

Thanks Rick!

15 gallon aio Aqua Japan tank. Tons and tons of space for biological filtration. Huge black sponge, huge bag of ceramic media. Pump that says it does about 100gph and temp at 78-80

Lost all but 3 dwarf neon rainbows to columnaris but received 2 small german blue rams that I ordered before knowing about the ammonium. That's why I'm being uptight about it, the rams.

Have grown to dislike the rainbows. Greedy things. They are a bit too active and a bit too big.

The 100% water change was at once, after treating for columnaris. I knew it was a risk, but didn't expect it too take this long as I didn't expect I'd lose all beneficials, just some

Well I've heard 2 different stories about 100% water changes, one which says you will lose all bb, one says the bb just goes dormant and will regrow after water is refilled, it's never a good idea to do 100 % at one time but there's a method called a tank flush where you change 100% over several Hours in a day, nh4 is not toxic what you're reading 8s ammonium which it's the ionized version of ammonia, I would just keep An eye on it, you probably lost the bb from The meds which could take time to re establish.