Nitrates through the roof.

[Piratechest]

20 gal 9 barbs 2 platy's 5 oto cats And 1 molly Aqua clear 50 My ammonia is reading 0ppm All my fish hide when the light is on. I do water changes frequently 15% every 2 days. But today I did a test and read what looks to be 40ppm on my nitrates. What the fastest way to lower nitrates? I have 5 dwarf sag, 3 crypts, amazon compacta, and some java moss. Also I have a non aquatic aluminum plant in there as well. I hear hornwort works?

 

[Piratechest]

I did 2 test one before a 30% water change and on after. An it still read the same

 

[Rivercats]

Do a 50% WC, wait a couple hours and retest. If it's not down to 20ppm or below do another 50% WC. Also be sure nitrates aren't coming from a build up of detris in the substrate or a dirty filter.

 

[Piratechest]

Do a 50% WC, wait a couple hours and retest. If it's not down to 20ppm or below do another 50% WC. Also be sure nitrates aren't coming from a build up of detris in the substrate or a dirty filter.

should I do that 50% water change today? Since I already did a 30%? And I washed out my filter.. Seemed to have a bit of nasty build up.

Edit: I gravel vac often

 

[Rivercats]

Your trates were probably from the filter. Wait a couple hours and test to see how high the nitrates are. If they are still over 20ppm then I'd do another WC.

 

[Piratechest]

Your trates were probably from the filter. Wait a couple hours and test to see how high the nitrates are. If they are still over 20ppm then I'd do another WC.

If they are still high should I do a 50% water change? Thanks for your help!

 

[J.Mcpeak]

Syphon filter the water change at least once per week. I usually use the quick method for my midweek change, but basically I take notes and work out a schedule for the tank. Check the source water because some places that is nitrate high.

 

[T1KARMANN]

40ppm isn't throw the roof

Don't panic

 

[Piratechest]

40ppm isn't throw the roof Don't panic

okay thanks for the reliever. Is this why my fish are 'Hiding'?

 

[T1KARMANN]

okay thanks for the reliever. Is this why my fish are 'Hiding'?

Nitrate of any level wouldn't make them hide

 

[Rivercats]

If they are still high should I do a 50% water change? Thanks for your help!

Yes do another 50% if still high and also check your tap water to be sure it is nitrate free.

 

[Rivercats]

What fish are hiding? All of them or just certain ones? If they are used to low nitrates and suddenly have higher nitrates it can stress them and when some fish get stressed they hide. Not saying that is the problem but it is possible. Do your WC's and get levels low and see if they quit hiding within about 24 hours.

 

[wildroseofky]

I had the same problem the other day. I noticed that my largest neon tetra was swimming with her head down and twitching. All the other fish were not moving around as much. I checked the water and my nitrates were at least 40, maybe a little higher. I immediately did a 50% water change. Fish started acting better. Checked it a couple of hours later and it was still high so another massive water change. This time I removed all but about 4 inches of water. I then cleaned the filter and filter media. It was fine after that. I had done some replanting and moved the substrate around while I vacuumed it. This released a lot of stuff into the water and caused a nitrate spike. I lost my two favorite guppies, found them dead after the first water change, but all the other fish recovered. That is what I get for not remember to check the water after doing major work on my tank. I have to clean my filter sponge at least once a week or my nitrates will spike. It started doing that after I started doing dry fertilizers. Guess it causes an over growth of algae in the sponge.

 

[AngelFishGirl]

"Through the roof" is when I switched from test strips to a Liquid test kit and found the nitrates that were originally reading 20 were actually over 160. And somehow the fish weren't dead.
I did a 65% percent water change, waited a few hours, and then did another 30%

 

[Piratechest]

"Through the roof" is when I switched from test strips to a Liquid test kit and found the nitrates that were originally reading 20 were actually over 160. And somehow the fish weren't dead. I did a 65% percent water change, waited a few hours, and then did another 30%

woah sounds rough. Here's a update guys. 2 50% water changes and a 75% WC later and my nitrates have lowered a little. The fish are showing signs of activity and are actually not in hiding. In going to keep up with the daily 50% water change. I recently tested my tap water 0ppm nitrates 1.5 ammonia. Any suggestion what to use to cut that ammonia back? I hear seachem prime?

 

[wildroseofky]

Prime would definitely help. My tap water has the same problems. Bad water. I wish I could afford an RO unit but right now it just is not in the doable. I did find a dual water purifier my Dad had hooked up to the house though. If I can find the filters for it I am going to hook that up. Prime cost a little more but a little goes a long way. I was using a cheapo ammo remover and switched to Prime. It makes a lot of difference.

 

[Piratechest]

Prime would definitely help. My tap water has the same problems. Bad water. I wish I could afford an RO unit but right now it just is not in the doable. I did find a dual water purifier my Dad had hooked up to the house though. If I can find the filters for it I am going to hook that up. Prime cost a little more but a little goes a long way. I was using a cheapo ammo remover and switched to Prime. It makes a lot of difference.

yeah, I hear good reviews. I'll be picking some up soon. But it's still a constant battle with nitrates. Should I get new substrate?

 

[pip walters]

There you go, you worry about a nitrate level that isn't particularly problematic (your plants are probably keeping it DOWN at 40ppm), then you go doing massive cleaning and kill of your nitrifying bacteria. You don't really need a water change at less than 50ppm nitrate. If you are concerned, then do small partials every couple of days to rduce the nitrate gradually without effecting your filtration.

If you are in the states, you can't beat Hagen Cycle for replenishing your BB quickly.

 

[wildroseofky]

Your substrate wouldn't be causing the problem unless you are using some type of organic material that could be rotting. Have you checked under plants, under decorations, rocks, driftwood, and the corners of your tank for organic buildup. When I have this problem a quick check of those areas usually turns up the culprit. Stuff gets trapped under these things and causes ammonia which causes high nitrates. About once a month I take a long wooden stick and stir the substrate as I vacuum. I feed my fish too much and tend to get a lot of poo and stuff. You might also check the substrate for rotting plant roots.

 

[Rivercats]

There you go, you worry about a nitrate level that isn't particularly problematic (your plants are probably keeping it DOWN at 40ppm), then you go doing massive cleaning and kill of your nitrifying bacteria. You don't really need a water change at less than 50ppm nitrate. If you are concerned, then do small partials every couple of days to rduce the nitrate gradually without effecting your filtration.

If you are in the states, you can't beat Hagen Cycle for replenishing your BB quickly.

Nitrate levels are not what should determine how often you do WC's. Keeping nitrates at 20ppm or lower is best for the fish. The reason you do a WC is to remove all manner of toxins from the water, both organic and inorganic. Not long ago Aqua_Chem (who has a degree in chemisty) posted this on a why do you need to do WC's just from the standpoint of what fish excrete into the water:

"Fish don't just excrete ammonia. They excrete many, many organic molecules (metabolites, proteins, etc) that could potentially be toxic. These compounds could have a number of potentially hazardous effects on a tank, such as (and completely made up on the spot): noxious to fish gills, bioaccumulation, or fueling dangerous (or unsightly) heterotrophic bacteria or algae species like cyanobacteria."

Also WC's don't remove beneficial bacteria. The bulk of all BB is located in the bio-media in a tanks filter. BB needs a constant supply of oxygen and food which is what the water flow in a filter does.

I've been doing 50% WC's on my tanks weekly for over 30 years, even on my current 220g. I've done larger WC's before. Doing a large weekly WC ensures you keep nutrients and toxins at low levels. There is barely any BB in the tank water itself.