ODNO for 29 gallon

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FMJnaX

Aquarium Advice FINatic
Joined
Apr 28, 2005
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Rockwall, Texas
I didn't want to continue to hijack the original thread located here so I created a new thread.

So anyway, I'm going to try and overdrive a simple F20T12 bulb; which is a 20W 24" T12 bulb - usually the standard bulb with any basic 30" hood for our 29 gallon tanks. greenmagi has been a HUGE help thus far so I figured I could just keep everyone informed and use this as a project thread as well as a Q & A thread about overdriving.

If you read through the original "lighting and cost..." thread, then you would know the basics that we're looking at. If you didn't, then let me list out my best explanation of ODNO and what we'll need to do this. I'm not an expert and I'm not going to pretend that I know exactly what I'm doing. If anyone needs to correct me, please do so. I'm just going to explain what I know in "newbie" terms.

ODNO - What is it?
ODNO stands for Over Drive(n) Normal Output. In a short description, it means that you're taking your standard fluorescent bulbs (normal output) and overdriving them by increasing the power given to them. I've read that it may work for incandescent, but that would be for a different story/thread. Trying to relate the overall project to other examples that people often try, here's what I've come up with:
  • 1) For the computer freaks - overclocking your CPU. You increase the voltage to it and get a higher clock speed (e.g. a 2.0GHz P4 can get a 3.0GHz rated clock speed). Of course, there's more to it that we won't get in to.

    2) For the automotive freaks - added something like a performance chip to your car or adding a larger throttle body, exhaust, NOS, etc, etc, etc

    3) Well, I can't think of anymore right now. lol

So, basically, you're taking a stock item and putting more into it. It's not more than the item can handle or that is was designed for, but it's enough to get better performance.

How does it work?
First of all, it must be done with an electronic ballast and not the standard magnetic ballast that usually comes with our standard 30" hoods. You typically need to buy an electronic ballast for 2 bulbs at the minimum. A 4 bulb ballast is always the recommended ballast, however. I haven't bought my ballast and looked at anything, but it appears that you simple wire the four outputs to your one bulb for a 4x overdrive. You can overdrive anywhere from 1x to 4x and can use T12 bulbs or T8 bulbs. This apparently increases the power to the bulb (instead of splitting power from the ballast to 4 bulbs, you're running it all to your 1 bulb), thus creating more watts, higher lumens, and a brighter light.

How much does it cost?
I haven't purchased anything, but preliminary checking shows to be about $40 for a twin light setup. I'm only going to work with a single light first, so I would say I'm going to expect to pay about $30-$35.

Is it safe?
Apparently so. As I understand, our standard fluorescent bulbs are built to accept a lot more than rated or what we normally feed them. The ballasts we use and typical industrial ballasts are created more as an "energy efficient" device. As a result, they don't really give you 100% of the product. As with any electrical project, serious risks are present, but if you have a good head on your shoulders, then you should be alright. There shouldn't be any risk of the bulb exploding, but they do get quite hot (though not as hot as the CF bulbs). It's highly recommended to use at least 1 fan to help dissipate the heat. Check your wiring and take it 1X at a time until you're job is perfect. Use the right materials and be sure to be home long enough for a good test (6+ hours). Do all of this and I don't see any problems coming up. DISCLAIMER - I will not be held responsible for any damages you may receive from trying this. I'm not the expert on this project. I'm simply just trying to put it all in to English.

Where can I find more technical information?
Simply click on this line. It's all the information you should ever need on this project.

I would highly suggest you read the information at the link posted above. I left out A LOT of small details that you should probably read up on if you're going to attempt this. If I have sparked your interest, then click the link above.

As I mentioned, I haven't purchased anything yet. When I do, I will post pictures of the items and of the progress as I go. I will attempt to make it a simple project for most electrical "newbies". Like I've mentioned many times, I'm not an expert on this. I've never attempted it, but I do have basic electrical experience and the guts to give it a shot. I'll monitor progress and try to get the estimated energy increase (for those of us that worry about our monthly electric bill), the light increase, how it affects my thinned plants, etc.

If anyone has information to add, questions, comments, etc, then please post away. I'll try to answer the best I can. If you want me to monitor anything special during the project, let me know and I'll make a best effort to do so.

It's my understanding that not many people use ODNO lighting and I would like to know why. It doesn't seem expensive or too difficult. Bulbs will be cheaper and should make up for the increased energy bill over a short amount of time (6-9 months maybe). So I'm going to get to the bottom of this and I'll take you all along the way. ;)

Thanks in advance for everything!
 
I for one am anxious to hear your observations about the perceived output increase in the overdriven NOs. I've got an old set of 36" 30w NO fixtures that I would love to put back to use in an ODNO manner so I will be following closely :)
 
I have some news on this front..
I have a single F40T12 fixture that I think I left over at a relatives house.. Its a perfecto single 48" NO fixture..
Ive been doing some research and have found a electronic ballast that is rated to power 4-F40T12 among many other lamp configurations.. It is called a Fulham Workhorse 7.. here is the link..
http://www.prolighting.com/wo7elba12loc.html

If I can dig up my single 48" NO fixture I am intrested in doing this myself.. It might take me a while to find it though..LOL
I need to look into installing a fan into the fixture as well..
:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Im glad I could be helpfull in this FMJnaX!
 
greenmagi - if/when you are ready to install the fan, I can help you out or there is a thread at The Planted Tank Forum.

I've hit a small bump (well, not really a bump I guess). I read some more information and it seems that a single 24" bulb doesn't see as much improvement as 2 24" bulbs in series. I'm trying to decide if I want to go ahead and try a single just for the sake of research or if I should just straight two the dual bulbs in series. If I go with dual bulbs, I'll have roughly 2.5 WPG at a 4X driving rate. I think this is a bit too much for me, until I can spend the time on a DIY CO2. I'll probably drive at 3X until then. This should give me right at 2.0 WPG. I'm not sure how 3X rates are calculated, so I could still be off.

I've also decided to go for the gold here and make my own hood. Since my current hood is only a single bulb and I cancelled my twin tube hood order (what I was thinking I have no idea), In order to hold the two bulbs, I'll need to do a little bit of modding. I'm not sure how I'll do the reflector yet (hopefully Lowes or the Home Depot will have a 30" reflector), but I do know that I'll be modding 100%. I'm planning on using some Lexan acrylic. I'll cut it and use a piano hinge for my front access. I'll make a custom cut to fit both of my HOB's on the back. I'll also cut a circle for my CO2 lines (thinking ahead). I'm also thinking about doing a fine mesh grate hinged under the front access. This way I can lift the light and not have to worry about jumping fish (not that my fish jump anyway). Still undecided on this task. The actual light fixtures I haven't come up with yet either. I don't know if I'll have two reflectors (one of the fixed part and the other over the hinged access), if I'll have one fixture of the fixed part (cramped lighting), or if I'll have one fixtured hinged. I'm leaning towards the last option just because I'll be installing at least 1 80mm computer fan in to the fixture and the extra space will help.

If anyone has suggestions for my custom hood, let me know. I'm going to try to convince the wife out of some materials today. Unfortunately, with my latests thoughts, this may end up being a well drawn out progress. We're getting ready to go on vacation in July and the wife's pinching penny's (even though we've saved plenty... she worries too much).
 
I was trying to get past some of the limitations of T-12 bulbs by using a ballast that is rated for T-12's.. I think I remember reading the single 24" problem but I would try it since you have the fixture and the ballast is the same.. ie you wouldnt have to buy a different ballast to try it..
Your definitely going all out if your building a canopy! LOL I would think you could build a dual striplight and that would be less difficult and cheaper.. just a thought..
 
I've heard nothing but good things about Fulham Workhorse ballasts. That's what came with my AHSupply 1x96w Bright Kit - a Fulham Workhorse 5 I believe.
 
travis simonson said:
I've heard nothing but good things about Fulham Workhorse ballasts. That's what came with my AHSupply 1x96w Bright Kit - a Fulham Workhorse 5 I believe.

Yes they are highly recommended.. and if you buy the ballast and design the light system yourself Im guessing you could save yourself some bucks! I do understand that the AHSupply reflector itself might make that purchase worthwhile though! The Fulham Workhorse 5 is only $25 online! And it is rated to do up to 128 watts worth of lights! :D
 
greenmagi said:
I was trying to get past some of the limitations of T-12 bulbs by using a ballast that is rated for T-12's.. I think I remember reading the single 24" problem but I would try it since you have the fixture and the ballast is the same.. ie you wouldnt have to buy a different ballast to try it..
Your definitely going all out if your building a canopy! LOL I would think you could build a dual striplight and that would be less difficult and cheaper.. just a thought..

I'm probably going to get a ballast rated for T8 since it will accept a T12 as well.

As for the whole hood setup, I'm stoked to try it, but I may take the easy way out and try and design a twin strip that will fit in my existing hood space; just to save a few bucks. I'll eventually make the full plexy hood though so that's still going to be included on here.

I'm about to take off to Lowes or Home Depot and see what I come up with. If nothing else, it'll be a good scouting mission. I'm taking in all of my measurements and I'm going to see what they have that will work.
 
I followed your lead and called Lowes and had them gather my stuff for me. :mrgreen: They got it all right!

I got:
The Sylvania QT 4x32/120 IS ballast ($29)

1 24" T12 GE Plant & Aqurium bulb (just want to see it in action). I only got one because I'm going to use my stock T12 light. No sense wasting it. ($6)

1 pair of end caps. Nothing special, just end caps ($5 - what a rip, but whatever)

A small bag of bolts/nuts (to fasten the end caps to my existing hood ($0.85)

Came out to just over $40. I got screwed on the price, but I figured the wife gave me free range and I wasn't going to let her take back on her word. This is actually my fathers day gift so no complaints if it works.

I'm heading downstairs to take some pics and start building. I'll post back (hopefully with a successful message) tonight or tomorrow morning.
 
Even if this works out perfectly, you haven't beaten a 1x55 bright kit from ahsupply.com. The ah kit fits into a 24" or 30" striplight fixture as well.
 
Yeah, but that kit is more expensive ($42 + shipping + a bulb). On top of that, the bulb replacement cost is more. I'll stick with the cheaper bulbs and and get more wattage out of it. My 2 20W bulbs will yield about 80W driven at 4X. I only plan to drive at 3X, but that's another reason while I go this route. If I need more/less in the future, it's as simple as changing the wiring.... 5 minutes tops.

Thanks for the suggestion though.
 
Well, it's 10:00 P.M. MST and I'm proud to say that I have a success!!!!

I didn't take as many pictures as I should have, but it was just hard trying to justify taking a picture every step of the way. This project is honestly easy enough that no pictures should be needed. I'll start this post with materials list.

Materials Used
Sylvania QT 4x32/120 IS ballast - $29
1 pair of end caps (nothing specific) - $5
1 small bag of bolts/nuts - $0.85
1 GE 24" 20W T12 Aquarium & Plant bulb - $5
Standard 30" single aquarium hood (just the strip light section) - $37, but should be cheaper for just the strip light part

General Tools
Flathead screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
Hobby knife (Xacto)
Rotary tool (Dremel)
Wire strippers/cutters
Adjustable wrench
Soldering iron

I didn't take a picture of the general tools, but here's what I came back from Lowes with. I spent just over $40 there so it wasn't much of a cost.

Link - Shot 1
Link - Shot 2

More on the next post...
 
Step one

The first thing I did was strip down the old light strip. I kept everything in tact just in case something didn't work out. Unfortunately, the reflector isn't big enough for two bulbs so I don't have one at this time. I'm going to build an aluminum one later, but for now this will have to do.

I decided that I was going to keep the switch as well... more of a conviniece I suppose.

Link - Hood teardown

The next step was to determine where the new ballast would go. This sucker is heavy and large. Too large to fit under the hood with two bulbs. I decided to place it behind the hood, on the opposite side of the HOB's. As a result, I had to relocate the switch. The power cord remained in a good spot, however. I simply used a pen to mark the cut holes. Unfortunately, you cannot see this part due to a fairly dark picture.

Link - Ballast location

More to come on the next post...
 
So now I knew where the ballast was going, I went ahead and figured out where the bulbs would go. As I mentioned, I was unable to use the reflector. I'm not happy about it since I'm going to be losing a lot of benefit without one, but I'll take care of it in the near future.

Before I started looking at possible locations, I wanted to see how the bulbs would look with the endcaps. Lucky for me that I did this because the new end caps are much taller than the stock ones. I decided to use the taller end caps for the top of the hood. The short end caps were going to be installed on the slant of the hood. With the extra height, both of them lined up pretty much even.

Link - Bulb height

I was now able to decide on and mark the bulb locations. This took a few tries to make sure it was centered and the bulbs were far enough away from each other while still being below the bottom of the hood. After all, I didn't really want the bulbs to rest directly on the plexiglass water shield. :)

I now had all of my holes marked. I pulled out the trusty Dremel and cut them out. This is where I found another dilema. The new end caps had the wire sockets on the side so that it could mount flush. The stock end caps had the wire sockets on the bottom, meaning I couldn't mount them flush. I took the Dremel to them and made them so that I could run the wires out the back.

Link - Stock end cap
Link - Fixed end cap

More to come on the next post...
 
krap101 said:
hmm the light bulb costed ya 50$? doesnt seem like your saving much money. lol

Fixed. :oops:
I get in a rush and always seem to do things like that. Thanks for spotting it.
 
lol. i found a few problems with my teacher's tests and lol. every test after that hed say Tell me danny if i did anything wrong. but there werent many more mistakes after that.. it somewhat annoys me that im that picky lol
 
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