Plants I think have Cryptocoryne Disease Cryptocoryne Rot.

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I know that carbon in the filters removes liquid ferts too.
I use a children's medicine syringe to dose at the roots and its helped also
There's no definitive answer to that, most say it won't remove it fast enough to affect the food your plants get others say it does, I am using flourish root tabs and i also have flourish liquid
 
I got my root tabs in today should I add some liquid flourish in with them?

Yeah I plan on making my own from here on out with osmocote, I think I messed up though I got flourish tabs and flourish liquid which is the same as the tabs



Flourish Comprehensive is the one that I use.

Flourish Excel is a Carbon source.

Root Tabs are similar to F Comprehensive , but diff delivery system. I use both.

I use liquid ferts for my stem plants

( I used to use Leaf Zone + F. Comprehensive as one is Micros and one is Macros so they complement each other ... now I use Thrive)

I use Root Tabs for my Root feeders
I use excel to help all the plants grow faster.
( I will switch to Glut later or inject CO2 )
 
Okay i added the tabs 2 days ago, seachem flourish, when i ordered the tabs I also ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...m+flourish&dpPl=1&dpID=411Bqc-xxGL&ref=plSrch

Which I believe is the same thing as my tabs, should I add liquid with the tabs?

EDIT: so the comprehensive is the Liquid as when I search for comprehensive it Comes up with what I bought, okay so my question, is it okay to add both at the same time as I didn't know so I have not added the comprehensive yet?
 
Okay i added the tabs 2 days ago, seachem flourish, when i ordered the tabs I also ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...m+flourish&dpPl=1&dpID=411Bqc-xxGL&ref=plSrch

Which I believe is the same thing as my tabs, should I add liquid with the tabs?

EDIT: so the comprehensive is the Liquid as when I search for comprehensive it Comes up with what I bought, okay so my question, is it okay to add both at the same time as I didn't know so I have not added the comprehensive yet?


Root tabs or flourish or any other distilled solution with a small percentage of ferts mixed will not solve your plant problems I'm afraid.

You need the one thing you keep ignoring and at least 3 people have mentioned it now and that's flourish excel.

If you don't want to add chemicals to the tank then you need to look at reducing your light or choose plants that are suited to low co2 environments. The plants you have (with exception to Amazon swords) fall in to this category and so by rights they should be ok however, there is no hard and fast rule when it comes to plants. If they are dying due to lack of co2 then you need to think of ways that increases co2 availability.

Check this thread

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f24/do-i-have-enough-co2-a-closer-look-351974-3.html

I wrote this because of this thread.
 
I added a half cap full if excel and a half cap full of flourish comprehensive, i couldn't get a concrete answer so I added half of what it recommends on the bottle, hope my fish don't die, also another thing I read about lighting, I never turn my lights off so the plants are constantly trying to photosynthesize , do my Lunar blues cause that also?
 
So in short I pretty much fertilized my whole tank for the next year lol, tabs, comprehensive, excel
 
I heard that some do a "siesta lighting" where the lights are off for about an hour or two in the middle of the day to allow CO2 build up.
I think this would work well in a low tech aquarium with medium light
 
Well to late now I added all these ferts all I can hope for is all the hard work and money I've put in this tank doesn't get erased by plant fertilizer, researching if lunar blues will still make a plant photosynthesize
 
You should have the lights on for anywhere from 6-10 hours. Problem with the constant lighting is that the plants will probably exhaust the carbon and fertilizer sources which isn't good. Several of my plants actually close up after 7-8 hours of light. I can't imagine what the lack of darkness is doing to the fish.
 
So in short I pretty much fertilized my whole tank for the next year lol, tabs, comprehensive, excel


EI (Estimate Index) and PPS-Pro fertilizer regimens consists of daily overdosing the tanks with fertilizers (coupled with a big water change at the end of the week). Been doing PPS-Pro for almost 3 years with good success. And it inexpensive compared to the liquid ferts.
Bottom line, extra ferts are not going to be a problem in your tank. Running medium or higher lights with an inadequate carbon source will cause problems.
 
Well I have lunar blues which is considered night cycle I still haven't found anything on it and the affect on plants
 
Well I have lunar blues which is considered night cycle I still haven't found anything on it and the affect on plants


Oh, I did not catch the lunar blue part. I thought you were running the primary light around the clock.
When I was running a Finnex 24/7 in 24/7 mode, it was on maybe 18-20 hours per day. There was a peak period for about 4-6 hours during the day but the rest of the time it was a DIM reddish orange light.
 
My fixture is led i have whites, blues, color enhancing, and just bought reds, I wasn't turning the blues on i was leaving everything run, so I now have the blues on but on a lower brightness, but I don't know if the Lunars are still considered light if that makes sense
 
My tank does not have a lot of plants, 3 swords and 2 Anubias I split into 5, not high tech very low tech lol
 
So I just need 2 things answered to put my anxiety to rest, will all the ferts I added to the tank hurt my fish? And if I notice anything going on with the fish im assuming an immediate big water change?
 
So I just need 2 things answered to put my anxiety to rest, will all the ferts I added to the tank hurt my fish? And if I notice anything going on with the fish im assuming an immediate big water change?



Nothing you've added will hurt your fish. I had very sensitive Crystal Red Shrimp. I still used Root Tabs, Liquid Ferts and Excel.

I used 1/2 dosage of Excel at first and gradually increased to full dosage once I saw my Shrimp were ok.

If you grow Vallisneria, you want to start with 1/2 dose of Excel.

I poured my Excel right on top of my fish this morning...they rush over anytime I get near the tank.

Yes, IF you notice a problem with fish...do a water change and test water.

My Med-High Light Tank:
I add Excel daily.
I add Root Tabs monthly
I add my Liquid Ferts 3x a week.
Water change weekly

My 10g Low Light tank
I add liquid ferts 1-2x a week
Excel when I remember
Root Tabs every 1-3 months.

55g with 4x 54watt T5HO bulbs
This is a restart for plants. Got neglected
IMG_2281.jpg
IMG_2278.jpg

My 10g Shrimp Jungle in its prime
IMG_2007.jpgIMG_1074.jpg
 
Several of my plants actually close up after 7-8 hours of light. I can't imagine what the lack of darkness is doing to the fish.


Probably due to circadian rhythm https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Circadian_rhythm. I've witnessed this myself and there are those suggest that plants slow down after the same duration of light exposure (8 hours). This is why we can afford to switch the co2 off towards the end of the photoperiod. The consensus is that (without excessive degassing) the plants will have enough co2 left in the water column to meet their decreasing demand.

I heard that some do a "siesta lighting" where the lights are off for about an hour or two in the middle of the day to allow CO2 build up.
I think this would work well in a low tech aquarium with medium light


This is the flip side to the above statement where co2 needs to be high at the beginning of the photoperiod. The plants need to remove inhibitors from 'activation sites' in their leaves before they can reach maximum co2 uptake efficiency via RuBisCo activase https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/RuBisCO#Regulation_by_RuBisCO_activase. This takes time. Algae do not have this problem and so they can take full advantage as soon as they are illuminated. This spawns the thesis that interrupting the photoperiod forces the plant to constantly unblock these inhibitors reducing their photosynthetic efficiency.

I haven't seen enough supported evidence however, that suggest the split photoperiod is beneficial nor detrimental to a planted tank. For this reason I personally tend towards a full photoperiod of around 8 hours as suggested above. [emoji106]
 
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