1) My ammonia reading on the API test is 8ppm! How is this possible?
Ammonia exists in the aquarium in a form harmful to fish called Free Ammonia (NH3). It also exists in a form NOT harmful to fish called Ammonium (NH4).
When we talk about "ammonia readings" around here from the most common test (API), we actually are referring to something called Total Ammonia Nitrogen (TAN). TAN is the sum of the Free Ammonia (NH3) and Ammonium (NH4) that is in your water. So NH3 + NH4 = TAN.
Now, the API test kit doesn't tell us how much of each there is. It just gives us the TAN and we know that it is made up of "some amount" of NH3 and NH4.
The actual amount of NH4 to NH3 is ENTIRELY determined by your pH and temperature. Ammonia literally becomes ammonium instantly and vice versa as the ammonia molecules become ionized or deionized as the pH/temp fluctuate. NH3 the harmful ammonia is actually a VERY small percentage of the total ammonia reading which is what the API master test kit gives us (API kit tells us the total sum of NH3 and NH4). In fact it does this by altering the pH of the water so that all of the ammonia is a single type, and then it measures just the one type.
Your actual harmful level of ammonia NH3 in your aquarium, at 8ppm and pH 7.0 and
assuming a standard temperature of about 25.5C (78F) is .046956ppm. This is the amount of harmful ammonia in your system. (it is actually a little less if your temperature is lower, and a little more if your temperature is higher). Anything over .05ppm is considered
imminently harmful, meaning it is actively giving your fish ammonia burn right this minute. Anything over .02ppm is considered
long-term harmful. It’s hurting your fish, but it’s a slow agonizing hurt.
2) So why does the Seachem ammonia alert say everything is fine?
The Seachem Ammonia Alert product concerns itself only with NH3 (Free Ammonia), the harmful kind. It does not detect or concern itself with NH4 because it is not harmful.
3) OK. But you said in question #1 that I have around .047ppm harmful ammonia. So why does the ammonia alert show 0?
The ammonia alert shows 0 because the remaining free ammonia NH3 is suppressed with Amquel+ and ammo chips.
4) How do these ammonia “lock down” products work?
Products such as Ammo Lock, Amquel, Prime and other water conditioners that “neutralize” ammonia are forcefully ionizing the NH3 molecules and forcing them to be NH4. The ammonia is still there in the system and still shows up on an API test kit because NH4 is still part of your Total Ammonia Nitrogen.
Some sites claim that these products give you “false” ammonia readings. This isn’t really true because as you now know, when people talk about ammonia readings they are almost always talking about Total Ammonia Nitrogen! (90% of the people on this board use the API test kit). They are changing the amount of your HARMFUL ammonia. Since they are forcing the harmful ammonia to be something it’s not, they only last about 24 hours. So these products need to be dosed every 24 hours to avoid a harmful level of NH3.
The benefits of using a chemical lockdown is that the ammonia is still available for the bacteria to consume, as they will eat either NH3 or NH4. And overall you WANT this to be available for the bacteria to consume because eventually the tank will be cycled and all ammonia will be processed by your filter. The drawbacks are constant dosing which is expensive.
Ammo chips work a little differently. They are made of a type of zeolite which is a naturally occurring mineral. This material is a mechanical ammonia filter meaning it’s not a chemical. The naturally occurring zeolite that befriends ammonia is Clinoptilolite and it literally sucks up the ammonia molecules and holds them inside. So this can become “used up” when there is no more room to grab more ammonia.
The benefits is this solution is completely natural.The drawbacks are the ammonia is removed from the system and unavailable to the bacteria, so it does not build your bio filter.
5) Do I need to use something that "locks down" my ammonia?
YES definitely. I hope it was clear from the calculation of free ammonia in your system that you must continue to lock it down either through conversion (use of Amquel+ or equivalent) or adsorbtion (ammo chips)
In fact I would be more free with daily your use of Amquel until you get your ammonia down. Remember, over .02 free ammonia is long-term harmful to your fish, and you are quite a ways above this.
Here is the link to the chart to figure out your true ammonia level. Find your pH and temperature to get the factor value. Now multiple this value by the reading your API test gives. If it’s not under .02, your fish are still “in trouble”
Calculating The Toxicity Of Ammonia In Freshwater - Tropical Discussion - Tropical Fish Forums
Be back in a few.
