Sump? Or just find a way to seal it off?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

Fullmoonnight

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Dec 14, 2012
Messages
188
I have these 40g long tanks that I guess used to be commercially used and so they have these holes at the top that I guess were used as a sump filter connector...thingy. I don't know anything about sump filters( as you can see) nor would I have a place to hide it (could I even afford it?)... but right now I can't fill the tank up to the top because of the holes. My hanging filter is so freakin' loud because of the water crashing down. So, my question is should I bother trying the sumps or just find something to seal it off? My gold fish live in one of the tanks. My turtles in another and my mom's parrot chicilds will be moving into one in a month. My hamsters also live in one but lol irrelevant...:lol:
 
If your filter is working well then there's no need for a sump. A sump is normally a place to hide your equipment like heaters, internal filters, protein skimmers, carbon reactors, calcium reactors, auto top up systems etc. there are other uses for a sump also but as far as your tank is concerned all I would so I make something to baffle the sound of crashing water. Could you upload a picture of the overflow?
 
Hamsters! Lol

To reduce the noise you can raise the water level. If that does not work you could try the following:
Here are some pics for a DIY lip extension for Aqua Clear HOB filters ( though it can be applied to most any HOB). You'll need sturdy scissors, pliers, and optionally some form of heat (hot water or a hair dryer). Most LFS sell the plastic strip separately in the lighting supply section. Hopefully the pics are self explanatory. You cut the strip to the width of the HOB spillway. You want to make two bends (the heat helps make the plastic more pliable):
#1. Bend the section of the strip that has the part that grips the glass hood downward about 45 degrees
#2. Bend the strip lengthwise along the middle about 45 degrees upward
Next, use pliers to pinch the part that grips the glass hood in one or two areas. Do not apply too much force. This will allow the lip extension to grip the HOB spillway and not fall into your tank.
You will have to adjust the bends and see what works best with your water level.
 

Attachments

  • image-4161773619.jpg
    image-4161773619.jpg
    158.5 KB · Views: 43
  • image-4225760644.jpg
    image-4225760644.jpg
    178.4 KB · Views: 52
  • image-1142478640.jpg
    image-1142478640.jpg
    133 KB · Views: 61
If your filter is working well then there's no need for a sump. A sump is normally a place to hide your equipment like heaters, internal filters, protein skimmers, carbon reactors, calcium reactors, auto top up systems etc. there are other uses for a sump also but as far as your tank is concerned all I would so I make something to baffle the sound of crashing water. Could you upload a picture of the overflow?

ohh lol haha I thought it was a type of filter.

These are the holes. I want to fill the water up higher though so my fish can have maximum swimming space. As you can see the water is quite low.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20121217_122759_zps5e4fb843.jpg
    IMG_20121217_122759_zps5e4fb843.jpg
    182.7 KB · Views: 52
Hamsters! Lol

To reduce the noise you can raise the water level. If that does not work you could try the following:
Here are some pics for a DIY lip extension for Aqua Clear HOB filters ( though it can be applied to most any HOB). You'll need sturdy scissors, pliers, and optionally some form of heat (hot water or a hair dryer). Most LFS sell the plastic strip separately in the lighting supply section. Hopefully the pics are self explanatory. You cut the strip to the width of the HOB spillway. You want to make two bends (the heat helps make the plastic more pliable):
#1. Bend the section of the strip that has the part that grips the glass hood downward about 45 degrees
#2. Bend the strip lengthwise along the middle about 45 degrees upward
Next, use pliers to pinch the part that grips the glass hood in one or two areas. Do not apply too much force. This will allow the lip extension to grip the HOB spillway and not fall into your tank.
You will have to adjust the bends and see what works best with your water level.

Oh that's smart! My fish are strong so they keep knocking what I have away. This usually mutes the noise though.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20121217_122805_zpsd044dbc9.jpg
    IMG_20121217_122805_zpsd044dbc9.jpg
    204.8 KB · Views: 52
I don;t know what those are right now but I'll look into it lol

Bulkheads are standard PVC sizes. You can go to your local hardware store and find a PVC plug that will fit.
If the bulkhead is threaded you are golden and all you have to do is find a threaded plug that will fit and use Teflon tape on the threads to seal.
If the bulkhead is slip then you need to find a slip plug and glue (PVC cement) it in. Make sure to allow the cement to cure for 24 hours before you fill the tank the rest of the way up. And don't drip any cement into the water.
 
Oh that's smart! My fish are strong so they keep knocking what I have away. This usually mutes the noise though.

You could take the mesh you already have and cut it into squares about the width of each spillway and secure it to the lip with plastic clips or plastic clothes pins. Or use foam cut to size or empty filter bags. If you go with the rigid plastic and match it up to the water line then you can achieve decent surface movement.
Below is an example of a bulkhead plug blert was referring to. I usually see them in black though. Garden/nursery shops usually carry these as well.
 

Attachments

  • image-1669626506.jpg
    image-1669626506.jpg
    13.2 KB · Views: 52
Bulkheads are standard PVC sizes. You can go to your local hardware store and find a PVC plug that will fit.
If the bulkhead is threaded you are golden and all you have to do is find a threaded plug that will fit and use Teflon tape on the threads to seal.
If the bulkhead is slip then you need to find a slip plug and glue (PVC cement) it in. Make sure to allow the cement to cure for 24 hours before you fill the tank the rest of the way up. And don't drip any cement into the water.

Thanks I'm going to get some next time I'm at Home depot
 
You could take the mesh you already have and cut it into squares about the width of each spillway and secure it to the lip with plastic clips or plastic clothes pins. Or use foam cut to size or empty filter bags. If you go with the rigid plastic and match it up to the water line then you can achieve decent surface movement.
Below is an example of a bulkhead plug blert was referring to. I usually see them in black though. Garden/nursery shops usually carry these as well.


I think I like the foam idea.
OH thanks for the picture! that's perfect.
 
Back
Top Bottom