White spot on common goldfish?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

EsmeAcosta

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Nov 13, 2014
Messages
6
Right now I put it in a separate dish since its tank is getting a deep clean. Yesterday it developed a white spot on its head and I'm not sure what it is? The other fish in the tank hasn't had the same symptoms and I'm just wondering what's wrong. It acts the same in the way it eats/swim, no loss of appetite or anythingImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1415863063.619035.jpgImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1415863105.610959.jpg
 
I found this on CompleteGoldfishCare.com

I am sorry you are having this issue, I am observing one of my Comets for Possible Ich. I highlighted a piece of this article in red because it almost looks like this from your pics.
...........
Goldfish Disease #5: Gold Dust Disease (Velvet)
Very similar to white spot disease, gold dust disease or velvet resembles small grains of dust and starts on the backs of goldfish. These small parasites are smaller than ich and can be difficult to detect.

Causes of Velvet – Like many common goldfish diseases and parasite infections, gold dust disease is usually found in tanks where new fish are present. Your goldfish might also be susceptible to velvet if water quality is poor or your goldfish are under stress.

Velvet Symptoms – Goldfish with velvet might have a whitish-yellow film on their skin and what might appear to be golden specks of dust. Velvet will often start on the backs of goldfish before spreading to the body and gills. Velvet causes your goldfish to scratch against objects in an attempt to get the parasites off. If allowed to get worse, it might almost appear as if the slime coats on your goldfish have thickened or are even peeling off. Affected goldfish may also have clamped fins or show signs of heavy breathing or weight loss.

Velvet Treatment – Since velvet parasites receive a portion of their energy from photosynthesis, cover the aquarium with a blanket and turn off the aquarium lights during treatment. Raise the water temperature to 80 °F (26 °C). This will quicken the parasite’s life cycle. Add 1/2 teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon of water and remove the active carbon from the filter. Remove any invertebrates from the aquarium and treat the water with Mardel CopperSafe for 10 days. Some goldfish hobbyists also recommend Mardel Quick Cure as an alternative. Once you’ve finished treatment, do a 25% water change and continue routine water changes as usual.

Continue treatment several days after the last signs of gold dust disease to ensure all parasites are exterminated. You should notice signs of improvement after a week of treatment.

Goldfish Disease Symptoms: 14 Early Signs that Your Goldfish Are Sick | Complete Goldfish Care
 
Last edited:
So his condition has worsened since now he has 2 'bubbles' and a red spot. Ugh.ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1415939302.120532.jpgImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1415939465.818784.jpg I separated him from the main tank into a 10 gallon incase of it spreading. He still swims fine, still eats fine too
 

Attachments

  • ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1415939465.818784.jpg
    ImageUploadedByAquarium Advice1415939465.818784.jpg
    177.5 KB · Views: 48
It does not appear to be velvet but he appears to have an ulcer as your second set of pics show that the area has a distinct depression and shows the signs of infection. The white area is necrotic tissue with the red outline being inflammation. The best treatment for him would be daily water changes to keep the water conditions pristine along with a broad spectrum antibiotic and increasing the salinity to @.1%. With a combined treatment approach, it should clear up but may leave a scar.

What size tank, stocking, parameters and water change schedule is on the tank he came from? Knowing this information may to determine why he became susceptible to this infection.
 
Normally he has a 20gall tank that he normally shares with some ghost shrimp (if he doesn't eat them). I do a 20-25% water change weekly, and a gravel vac session once a month, the ammonia had a spiked this week so I moved him to a 10 gall while I get it back under control. It was fine in the 20 fall but once he was moved into the 10 gall (With filter) his health started to decline. The 10 gall I keep running as a quarantine tank and its ph, ammonia, nitrate, and chlorine levels have always been safe. So I'm lost here. Thanks for telling me I'll get on it as soon as I can
 
Normally he has a 20gall tank that he normally shares with some ghost shrimp (if he doesn't eat them). I do a 20-25% water change weekly, and a gravel vac session once a month, the ammonia had a spiked this week so I moved him to a 10 gall while I get it back under control. It was fine in the 20 fall but once he was moved into the 10 gall (With filter) his health started to decline. The 10 gall I keep running as a quarantine tank and its ph, ammonia, nitrate, and chlorine levels have always been safe. So I'm lost here. Thanks for telling me I'll get on it as soon as I can


Thanks! That makes sense as unhealthy water is the primary culprit in most fish health issues. A 10g would be quite difficult to maintain healthy parameters in with a goldfish-water changes would need to be daily (if not more often).

I honestly would do sufficient wcs on your 20g to bring all the parameters to zero then re-acclimate him back to the 20g. Continue with daily testing and water changes during treatment until he is back to a healthy state. Once back in a healthy condition, you will need to monitor the tank on a regular basis for possible spikes in toxins and change minimum of 50% of his water weekly along with a good gravel vac. I suggest thus at the bare minimum- larger and more frequent water changes will be a better option for him overall in this size tank. Please ask any questions! :)
 
Back
Top Bottom