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Old 04-04-2012, 08:21 PM   #21
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That was a really great read even though I have seen how carbon use helps out a tank, in both fresh and saltwater tanks. I actually learned something.
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:30 PM   #22
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Well I have a test running to see if I can pin point the problem.
Note all tanks have been set up for months and one normally just sits empty[suppose to be QT] LOL ..

I have 3 of the same colony of zoa's. Split into 3 tanks... 2 Tanks contain the same water [10g clown & carpet tank.. {2} 65w PC Antics & 10,000k, HOB filter (particle filter and bio ceramic beads), DIY Protein Skimmer] & Main 54g DT (Page 1 / Post 1).. Then the [10g QT {2}T5's Antics and 10,000k, HOB filter (carbon)]

To see if it's water quality, Lighting Or what!!!
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Old 04-05-2012, 05:22 AM   #23
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Lighting or filtration have nothing to do with the test readings (ca, alk, mag) you are getting.
I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish with your "test" You have 3 tanks setup with 3 different types of filtration and 3 different types of lighting and different livestock in each. If you notice 1 tank responding better how will you know what caused the positive response?
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Old 04-05-2012, 07:09 AM   #24
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@Fishy Aston: API kits are better than any strips and are a good entry kit for most. As you get more advanced, you'll want better kits. An API master kit retails for $30 and gets you (I think) 4 kits. A single Salifert pH kit is somewhere around $12. The other kits are more. Elos kits are more than that. I guess you could say API is good for very basic tests like pH, ammonia, and nitrite. Once you get beyond those, their reliability drops considerably.
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Old 04-05-2012, 02:46 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by ccCapt View Post
Lighting or filtration have nothing to do with the test readings (ca, alk, mag) you are getting.
I'm not sure what you are trying to accomplish with your "test" You have 3 tanks setup with 3 different types of filtration and 3 different types of lighting and different livestock in each. If you notice 1 tank responding better how will you know what caused the positive response?

I know sorry for the misunderstanding. I'm not "testing" parameter per say. More just different lighting and tank water quality... [1] 10g has algae bad. and the other 10g is algae free.

Reason for this is to see if my New DIY led's are JUNK!! That would p!ss me off!! Another $250 down the drain.. Or if the corals are just acclimating to the new led's. .

To add to the experiment I bought a Zoa colony that has been under MarineLand Led's for a month and doing great. Placed them in 54g DT under DIY led's And they have opened [not as much as store] both last night and this morning... More than others ever have.. Other Zoa's still closed...


I "think" my corals are growing and I'd say fast just most lack zooxanthellae ?!?!?

Reason I say that is my best example is my Branching Montipora Digitata frag.. Pics show best...

Brought Home:



Hour after added to tank:



3 days later:





And this isn't the only frag lost it's polyps or isn't extending them'

A Pink with green Birds nest has lost it's green but has grown 1/4" taller. [from base] [in a week] is that normal growth rate?

My Plating Montipora has doubled it's thickness and started to grow pass the frag plug. Also has two colors under Royal Blues. Purplish with blue swirls through it..


This could be all in my head but I don't think so...

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Old 04-05-2012, 02:49 PM   #26
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@Fishy Aston: API kits are better than any strips and are a good entry kit for most. As you get more advanced, you'll want better kits. An API master kit retails for $30 and gets you (I think) 4 kits. A single Salifert pH kit is somewhere around $12. The other kits are more. Elos kits are more than that. I guess you could say API is good for very basic tests like pH, ammonia, and nitrite. Once you get beyond those, their reliability drops considerably.

I made the mistake of buying the API saltwater kit and then had to buy the reef kit... And $35 each is what I paid.. MY Red Sea Mag. kit was $25

JFYI to anyone.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:21 PM   #27
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Ok so I bought that Zoa from the LFS [one under leds for a month or more] And it had a few hitchhikers. A fuzz like fugus or sponge is what I can guess... And two aptasia.

Well in just 3days the aptasia has shunk and is now looking as if I treated it [dying] !!!?? But I didn't do anything, no dips, no hot water , nothing. It is just the two in my tank so I figured F__k it for now..

But I think what is effecting my corals is the same as the aptasia....

Any idea's....???

Plenty of ways to get rid of them but non on what would kill them without treatment.



Oh and LFS said maybe I have too much flow and thats why my coral polyps aren't extending.. I highly doubt because I can see particles float by at different speeds in the tank and I designed coral around this to insure proper lighting, flow ect......
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:06 PM   #28
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Maybe try different placement of corals. Did you buy this tank new or used?
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:20 PM   #29
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Maybe try different placement of corals. Did you buy this tank new or used?
Been there done that.. First tank 47g was bought brand new and had simular issues with softy corals. Thought it was my lighting. and this tank was not used with medcation. if thats what ur getting at.
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:27 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliO

Been there done that.. First tank 47g was bought brand new and had simular issues with softy corals. Thought it was my lighting. and this tank was not used with medcation. if thats what ur getting at.
My only guess then is lighting. I'm not a fan of DIY lighting. See if you can borrow a PAR test and see what readings you get. I have PAR ratings of 400 24" down.
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