55 Patience is a Virtue Seawater Build

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You can get a diamond bit drill (I found one for $10 but is only good for 4 holes) which can drill through tempered glass. That's what I did with my tank. No problem and clean cut.

I know you are concerned about the parameters. I highly recommend the overflow box and the refugium, they are seriously amazing. The biological filter is so important and will help you with your parameters.
 
The whole point of live rock is Biological filter right?

There are warning stickers on the tank that say DO NOT DRILL. I figure they know what they are talking about.

I just cleaned the canister filter, and removed the charcoal and the purigen for a while.

I am not so worried about long term parameters, I am right now making sure that nothing gets in the way of cycling.

I might pick up a hang on back refugium.

SRC <><
 
Can You Drill a Hole in Tempered Glass

Tempered glass is glass subjected to a process that permanently changes its structure, making it tough and durable. Any cutting or drilling necessary is carried out before the tempering process. It is inadvisable to drill tempered glass.






  1. Features

    • Tempered glass has a very hard, durable surface. It is more resistant to heat than standard glass and breaks less easily. Pieces of glass that are to be tempered are precut and drilled before undergoing the tempering process, because they cannot be drilled afterwards.

    Effects

    • Tempered glass is made by heating glass to around 1300ºF (700ºC). The glass is then removed from the furnace and cooled very rapidly. This creates new stresspatterns in the glass; the core of the glass is under tension, while the surfaces of the glass are in compression. Tempered glass is 400 to 500 percent stronger than standard glass, but if the surface is damaged the whole pane shatters completely. This applies to cutting and drilling as well as accidental damage.

    Considerations

    • Aside from the high likelihood of tempered glass shattering if you attempt to drill it, the hard surface of tempered glass significantly reduces the life of diamond drill bits.

 
Something about more than one way to skin a cat.

My stand has a integral center support that would only allow maybe a ten or 15 gallon sump, but then I would run the risk of flooding the carpet on that side of the basement.

Doesn't seem like a big enough pay off for me, at least at this point.

More water is better, absolutely.
 
The pwc are slowing down your cycle. I have a hob skimmer doesn't bother me I look at my reef not the skimmer. I use the eshopp overflow love it always restarts after wc no pump needed. Hob fuge is better than nothing if you can fit a fuge under tank you won't regret it. Don't drill tank!!!
 
Actually you'd be fine! With proper design you won't flood. On the overflow, water can only pass into it until it goes under the level of the baffles. Then, for the sump, I'm told drilling a small hole in the return line will help on this end, but simply designing the sump to hold a smaller amount of water will prevent overflow of the aquarium.

So, to reflect, a sump can't overflow from siphon loss. To ensure the display doesn't, don't have a sump totally full of water. Even with my ato sucking a gallon of ro/di into the mix, my display does not overflow upon rate siphon loss. This is why the aqualifter is on the overflow to prevent this.
 
Ammonia is the one that determines your cycle. Ammonia is the one that triggers nitrite which triggers the nitrate. That's why your nitrate is high. Do the water change and see how your parameters are next week. You won't get immediate results.

How old is your tank?
 
Your cycle is probably over. Just get that nitrate down and see how it goes from there.

I would really look into the hang-on over flow box and the refugium.
 
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