Building easy DIY sump-ideas?

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parkersmomma2

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Jul 26, 2012
Messages
26
Location
Chicagoland
I started back up my 36 Bow front tank again, and wanted to build an easy sump for it...I just don't think I'm getting the filtration I need from my Emporer Biowheel and media reactor.

My Idea:
Buy 20 gallon glass tank (or maybe a rubbermaid or similar strorage container if the plastic is safe)
No overflow box (HATE THEM)
I was thinking putting a submersible pump in the water, having some flexible tubing running down into the tank, and covering the ho with some cut to fit pre-filter. The "intake" pump would be 755 GPH. It would go down into the first "chamber" of the sump which would be something similar to this ((crate)), then drill more holes in the bottom to get more flow, first using marine silicone to glue it in, and then lining it with filter floss or some other more dense filter pad.

Next I was thinking the water dripping from that chamber could be run through another chamber set up exactly the same, a little bitter, no holes cut ouf of the bottom, and place our LR rubble, some fuge mud, and have a little fuge if that's possible. Maybe switching the first and second chambers?

The last chamber will house my Media Reactor UV Sterilizer, and Return Pump. Return pump will be 474 GPH. Will use flexible tubing again, with a sprayer head on to disperse the water flow. Maybe find some way to incorporate those Fluval Water Polishing Pads...I hear they're great.


Opinions? Suggestions? I will call the plastic companies tomorrow if none of you know offhand.

Thanks!! :fish1::thanks:
 
I wouldnt use a powerhead to get water out of the dt. If youre flowing almost 800 gph out of the tank, and only 450 back in (thats without headloss, youre really prob flowing 325-350gph) youre gonna overflow your sump everyday. Just run a j-tube, glue extensions to get it down to your sump, then syphon start it. Make sure your pvc drain size can handle sonewhere around your return rating.(after headloss) an easy way to fine tune it to work perfectly is put a ball valve on your return line... If need be you can throttle it back a bit till the return and drain even out
 
So, your plan is to use a pump to get it into the sump, and then a pump to get it back to the main tank?
Even if an overflow box stole my girlfriend and ran over my dog, I'd still consider it a better option than that. Two identical pumps with identical GPH ratings placed at different depths will pump at different speeds. And with one lifting more than the other, the speeds will vary further. Oh, and even more fun, let's say you get them adjusted (ball valves or whatnot) to the same flow rate. One may wear out faster than the other!
If you really hate overflows that much (no idea why, they work fine) then drill the tank. A two pump system is just not a good option.
 
All the other comment about a drain pump aside, it would quickly burn out. Pumps are designed to pump against a back pressure. Vertically supplied back pressure is what is called head loss. Pumping down would have a head gain offset by a minimal flow restriction. No matter how fast the water flowed within reason there would still be a siphon suction on the pump causing overspeed. It would be worse than running a water pump dry.
 
Thanks guys for the input...I guess I'll just take my overflow box off of my 75 and cut it down some...the box that goes on the inside of the tank to collect water is so high up that the water in the tank has to be as the VERY top of the tank (IE If I even stuck a hand in there it would overflow the tank.
I may do what Huma Huma said with the J-Tube and just siphon out that way, and then use the return pump I already have for my 75 tank sump (aquaflex pro 3 or something). Its this pump, can't remember if it is the 1800 or 3000 model.

Aquarium Systems Premium Maxi-Jet Utility Pump

As for the rest of it does it sound good? Does anyone know if those types of plastics are safe?
 
Ingy said:
All the other comment about a drain pump aside, it would quickly burn out. Pumping down would have a head gain offset by a minimal flow restriction. No matter how fast the water flowed within reason there would still be a siphon suction o

A throttled back ball valve on the drain tube should proide enough back pressure. Also i think alot of it has to do with the diameter of piping. If he is using a pipe thats rated for 500 gph and hes attempting to pump 700 through it, syphon or not itll have back pressure. Now if it were the other way around id agree. As bevause if the pump was pushing 300 gph and the tube was rated at 500, it would overspin the pump
 
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