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#1 (permalink) |
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Aquarium Advice Regular
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: 20 minutes northwest of NYC
Posts: 71
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GreenAlgae Problem
I have my 20 gallon now for two months. I just returned my damselfish for store credit and bought some live rock. I know, I know...I did things backwards. Anyway, my problem is with algae. It's gowing profusely all over the live sand and the glass of the aquarium. It's dark green and grows in a matter of one day! I try stirring it and burying it, but it grows back fully in 24 hours. No idea if this is normal or if there is something wrong.
Also, I've added some ornaments (fake plants, a sculpture) to the tank. Do those have to be cleaned when I do water changes? How do I keep algae off the ornaments? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Moderator
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Clueless, I am going to split this into it's own thread, called Green Algae Problem
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#3 (permalink) |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Moderator
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What are your water parameters?
How much/often/what are you feeding? How long do you run your lights? Do you have a filter with foam? Yes, I would clean your ornaments.
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FWIW? LFS? FOWLR? VHO? Dunno what these acronyms mean? Click Here for a list of commonly used acronyms and abbreviations. (stole this from Lindsay) Visit our Article section for answers on a variety of topics. (stole this from Ziggy953) Vote for Aquarium Advice (snagged this from cmor) --Scott |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Aquarium Advice Regular
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: 20 minutes northwest of NYC
Posts: 71
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I have a confession which will make everyone hate me.
Ammonia .25 Alk - normal NitrIte 10 NitrAte .2 pH 7.8 Spec Grav - fine Temp 80 degrees Single bulb / I leave the light on for 12 hours per day 20 gallon tank 60 days into cycle I returned my damsel today and added 8 lbs of live rock after the pet store guy tested my sample and said it was okay to proceed. (Eeesh!) Anyway, this sounds like I overfed my damsel and it ALSO sounds like I need to cycle all over again How do I kill this algae which is carpeting my live sand? |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Aquarium Advice Regular
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Huntington Beach
Posts: 67
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whats your phosphate at?
you should get your ph up higher is low and you should get your nirite and nitrate and ammonia done to 0 vac the sand dont just stir it up then whatch your parameters
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60 ga. SPS tank w/ 2 - 175w 20k halides, korallin 1502 calcium reactor w/ph contorler 24ga. SW nano w/150 HQI 180ga. FW aggresive fish 125ga. FW w/60ga. sump. VERY aggresive fish |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Mentor
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Was the LR fully cured? If not, or if it was out of water for any length of time it could have caused the start of a new mini-cycle. I would do a 20% PWC and vaccum the sand bed at that time. Please test your water parameters before the PWC and again the day after the PWC to see where things stand.
What is the SG reading and what are you using to get that reading? Are you using RODI water, treated tap, or something else for both top off and PWCs? That single bulb light is what kind of light? Normal output, PC, T5, MH? Kill the light for now. There's nothing in the tank that requires light from what I can see.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Aquarium Advice Regular
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: 20 minutes northwest of NYC
Posts: 71
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I will do chemical tests tonight.
Killing the light sounds like good advice. I'll leave it off from now on. I thought the LR might need it. The LR is cured, and there is no fish in there right now. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Mentor
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If it's reappearing that quick, I'm guessing its cyanobacteria. Excess nutrients (nitrates and phosphates) and excess lighting will just fuel it. Don't stir it or try to bury it - just siphon it out with some of the sand. It'll come back, but stirring it up just makes things worse. Work on the list that melosu58 linked to and you'll probably get over it.
Just another comment about the tank picture - you can take that air intake tube off your powerhead. All it's doing is creating a bunch of microbubbles in your tank which aren't really helping with aeration. In SW, most of the aeration occurs at the surface of the tank, and in a skimmer. That's why its important to have good surface "ripple." Watch your ammonia and nitrite and don't add anything live until both those go back to zero. You might see a little mini cycle after adding the rock. PS... Also looks like you're going to want some additional flow in there. Is it just that single powerhead right now, pointing up? You'll probably want a couple additional powerheads on each end, in the back corners, pointing diagonal across the tank making kind of an "x". The additional flow should help from getting dead spots in your tank where cyano likes to set up camp. |
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