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Old 02-27-2011, 04:03 PM   #11
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to Gti Leo:
Right...that is my question. At this point the tank is empty but I am assuming I have already created an ammonia spike. I guess the question is can I now put in some LR and continue the cycle or is the ammonia so high it is going to kill off my live rock. I know I need to test the tank to find out but I am wondering if I should not change the water at this point and test it first.

to smitty:
I received the test kit with the tank from a science teacher at my school. I have been reading up but then I went to the store and I guess I put too much trust in them because I decided to go with their advice. They have happy, living fish in their tanks so I figured they must have some idea what to do.
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Old 02-27-2011, 04:05 PM   #12
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Without having the water tested it is hard to say if the ammonia is too high. To cycle you want around 4 ppm. If it is over that you can do a PWC (Partial water change) to drop down the ammonia and then put in the live rock. I recommend you get the live rock even if the ammonia is higher than 4 ppm but would still do a PWC to drop it some.
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Old 02-27-2011, 04:05 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by Gti_Leo View Post
why do a water change if the 3 dead damsels have already started an ammonia spike and the live rock os probably already in its startign stages of its cycle
Yea I agree. I guess no point in doing a water change now, mine as well just let the tank cycle.
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Old 02-27-2011, 04:09 PM   #14
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the live rock needs the ammonia to begin its cycle. the ammonia begins to grow the bacteria on the rock that causes the ammonia to be turned into nitrite then to a less harmful nitrate.

there should have been live rock in the tank when you put the fish in, and 3 dansels in a 17 gallon is alot and without the live rock to help suck up some of that ammonia its no wonder they died. also how lage is your filter, generally for one that hangs on the back you should go with oen atleast double the size. i would recommend one sized for a 50 gallon atleast
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Old 02-27-2011, 05:05 PM   #15
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The filter is another thing. I have researched all over the internet and can not find a set up like mine. The best I can tell from my book is that it is a fluidized filter. There are two chambers in the back of the tank. The water flows in to the first chamber in which there is biomedia and then is sucked into the second chamber through a hole at the bottom of the divider. There is a pump in the second chamber which pumps the water back in to a display tank. There is not any kind of mechanical filter but I was going to pick up something today to put over the baffles leading to the first chamber. We were told a carbon filter pad would be good for that and that the flow of water would hold it in place. I'm not totally convinced, any ideas?
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Old 02-27-2011, 05:08 PM   #16
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what brand is it, and whats the GPH of it. some would suggest cycling your tank 10 times per hour meanign your filter should be atleast 170 GPH for a 17 gallon
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Old 02-27-2011, 05:10 PM   #17
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Don't know. It is not a filter that hangs of the back. It is actually part of the tank...like a sump in the back of the tank. And the tank does not have any info on it either.
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Old 02-27-2011, 05:24 PM   #18
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I do understand what you are saying. It sound like one of the Oceanic tanks or something like that with a built in filter type area.

Don't get the carbon. It isn't needed unless you are using medication but it is NEVER recommended to use medication in your display tank because it can cause a lot of problems. Especially something like copper which would make your tank uninhabitable by crustations (crabs and shrimp).
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Old 02-27-2011, 08:54 PM   #19
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all filters should run carbon. it helps keep the pater clean and polished, carbon is one of the only filter media most people would recommend you run besides biomedia
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Old 02-27-2011, 09:30 PM   #20
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I'm finding in this hobby everyone has an opinion and no two are the same So now I have to find out yes carbon or no carbon.

Well I went and had my levels checked and they are as follows:
Ammonia 1.5
Nitrite 2
Nitrate 40

His advice is that at this point the cycling has started and I should just let it do it's thing. If I add live rock the levels of ammonia and nitrite will just kill the stuff on the rock. So I am going to let it go for a while and check the progress every so often.

One more question though. Do I need to continue to keep my tank at 78 degrees while it is cycling?
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