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Old 09-17-2007, 10:39 AM   #31
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I will check Tunze website again... from reading the 6101 manual, I got the impression that magnetic mounts are not available for 6101's... only for 6300 model line... also, 6101's are quite bulky and heavy, I hardly imaging a magnet that can hold them while they are in motion.... also, what about the constant exposure of the livestock to powerfull magnetic fields? would that be safe in the long run?
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Old 09-17-2007, 10:44 AM   #32
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http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewIt...ct~TZ1571.html

Here's the one's I use. Never had a fish, or invert get harmed on it. Not sure about the magnetic field thing. Just one magnet on the outside of the tank stuck to the metal PH holder on the inside of the tank. Ya think there'd be a magnetic leak somehow?

MyPHs' don't move back and forth either, so you may have a point with that concern. Still mine hold so well, i can't imagine anything being a problem.
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Old 09-17-2007, 11:09 AM   #33
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Called MD... two Tunze magnetic holders added to the order... the website says they will hold Turbelle PHs up to 45w... so should be fine. Thanks alot for the hint.

As far as the magnetic field, I would imaging that it is present at all time as long as the magnet is there. The question is, how does it affect the livestock...
Well, I guess I will give it a try and see. Will just make sure I do not feed my fish to much of that iron enriched diet
Besides, since they make those holder and people use them in dispay tanks... Why not me.
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:59 AM   #34
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All equipment came in yesterday except for the skimmer, which is to arrive today.

I spent last night installing RO/DI unit and assembling lightning. RO/DI took the longest, but seems to work great so far.
I will post some pictures of the light and other assembled stuff tonight.

Now, I got some basic questions. First, I got the refractometer, it did not come with distilled water for calibration. What would be a good place to get the water in small quantities? farmacy? LFS?
Or, I can always DIY a few drops of distilled water...

Also, I gave my new MAG 9.5 a test spin in the kitchen sink last night. This thing produces so much flow that I am somewhat concerned... Some of you guys use this pump in similar tanks, do you have to control the flow in any way? if so, how do you do that?

finally, where does it make sense to put shut off valves? Keep in mind that I have overflow... so I can think of a couple of places where to install them, but wanted to get your opinion.

I'm doing 100% online order on LR with airport-to-airport delivery... Marshall rock wont be available until October, so I got plenty of time to experiment with the setup.
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Old 09-21-2007, 01:09 PM   #35
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Be sure to discard the first gallons (check your specs) of the RO/DI filter.

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What would be a good place to get the water in small quantities?
Yep. Pharmacy or grocery store. That'd do it. Still might not be able to get less than a gallon, but its cheap enuf.

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new MAG 9.5 a test spin in the kitchen sink
Don't worry, by the time you go up and thru elbows and such, you'll lose a lot of that pressure. Called head loss.

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where does it make sense to put shut off valves?
I did ball valves on both my return lines just in case. Not sure for what at this point. WHen I turn the pump off, the backflow from the line isn't much. I did do a connector from the main pump so I could take it our without disturbing the rest of the line. I also did a ball valve before the skimmer in cae I needed to regulate the flow. Haven't used it yet. Did the same thing for the flow into the UV. Have used it to maintain a slower flow at times.

Actually, come to think of it, I haven't had a need for a shut off valve. Connectors for easy dissasembley if needed, and the one ball valve for the UV, that's it. You gonna use pvc pipes or flexible spa hose? I used the latter to keep the flow uninhibited. Just gotta use the blue pvc glue when going from flex to pvc.

Gonna paint the back, right. Don't paint the over fow chamber if you do.
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Old 09-21-2007, 04:26 PM   #36
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You mean don't paint the back behind the overflow? Is that so you can see if a fish gets in there? I never thought of that...
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Old 09-22-2007, 01:05 AM   #37
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hmm... I was going to do all tubing. PVC is not very critical for a tank of my size.

I'm gonna put a valve after the pump somewhere so that i can control the flow, and perhaps on return from the tank to the sump.

I was thinking about the background... Still cant figure out what exactly I want to do. Initially I planned to buy one of those posters at LFS and just fix it to the back...
I figured I wouldnt want to cover the overflow just so that I can see whats going on there if needed.

Skimmer did not make it in today, the rest came. Today's portion of pics, as promised.
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Old 09-22-2007, 01:20 AM   #38
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Oohh, very nice
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Old 09-22-2007, 10:13 AM   #39
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Looking great! I am enjoying watching the progress. My only suggestion would be to consider adding a third powerhead in the middle of the tank. I have three in my 95gal and it seems to offer good flow.
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Old 09-23-2007, 11:21 PM   #40
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Thanks guys! you are too nice.

Lando: regarding powerheads. Those tunze 6101's that I got are supposed to be extremely efficient... I have also repositioned them using magnet holders (see pics below). If I turn both of them to the maximum, the water at the top looked like it was boiling. Although, as you can see, the heads are closer to the bottom this time. But anyway, I got room for two more heads at the controller, so if need be, more will be added in no time.

Well, I set it all up this weekend. Except for the skimmer. The inside of the cabinet is coated with clear polyurethane. The sump is inside along with mag 9.5, mag 5, UV and all tubing. I put just one shut off ball valve before UV for flow control and I think no more valves will be needed. UV is mounted vertically in the right corner. Two Finnex heaters are at the bottom of the sump, their control units mounted on the back wall.
Speaking of Finnex heaters. They are great and all... I like their controls, the way they are made. However, there is a problem I have overlooked. There is no way to set the preset temperature. Ofcourse, you can adjust the temperature to anything you want, but once power goes out, the heater is reset to 80 degrees and there is no way to make it remember the settings. I am not sure yet how critical this is going to be, but I sure wish I knew about this issue before...

At the last moment I realized I havent thought of an emergency auto shut off valve or something that would prevent the sump from overflowing if the power goes out and the pump stops. That had me worried for awhile until I tested the assembled setup. There would never be enough water coming back from the tank to overflow the sump unless there is already too much water in the sump...

I am known to be a very patient person. But its getting harder and harder
Well, enough chat, next set of photos.
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